File Under "Lessons Learned"

Wandering Sagebrush

Free Range Human
I decided to take the Honda 8hp Kicker off the boat, relying one the main, and if needed, a Suzuki 2.5 and the inflatable for the Lake Powell trip. Being covetous of the things I own, and trying earnestly to keep honest people honest, I put a Mercury motor lock on one of the transom screws. It is probably the most secure lock system I have seen for small engines.

What I didn't count on, or perhaps think ahead is a better use of words, is the rust that would hit the lock immediately after the first bit of seawater splashed into the well.

After a morning's work with a Dremel tool and cutoff bits, I finally got the damn thing off the engine, albeit in 5 parts. I only snapped about 15 or 20 of the bits, so it wasn't that bad (profanity deleted). The boat looks naked without the kicker, but I think it will work a bunch better at altitude and with load. Chris, if you're reading this, I am following your advice and just going with the main engine. I sure hope it proves favorable.

So lesson leaned... Don't use a lock that can be hit by any kind of water. Does anyone have a recommendation for a better kicker lock?

MISFORTUNE, n. The kind of fortune that never misses.
 
I have had pretty good luck with a Master Python cable lock. It's been on for 2.5 years in some salt but mostly fresh and is stored outside all year. Still seems to function fine though I spray the lock with wd whenever I think of it (which is not very often). I lock my kick with it to the SS tow cleat through the tilt tube (picture 3 in motor setup sub album). Never been thief tested that I know of, but it looks pretty tough to me. A little movie here at bottom of page.

http://www.heartlandlock.com/index.php? ... ucts_id=21

I have a second for the generator and other stuff while ashore for short stints, or camping [though it's occurred to me an enterprising thief could use the generator to run his angle grinder].
 
Steve,

I went to an all brass padlock on the dingy motor after experiencing the same problem. I didn't have the option of anything electric to help with the rusty lock removal. I had to use a file and a lot of time and swear words. The brass lock is resistant to salt water corrosion, and I try to remember to oil it occasionally.
 
In the Navy we tested several lubricates and we found Break Free CLP to be the best. All the corrosion/rust we used to experience all but went away. I have used it for many years on all my guns, locks, hinges and anything else that needs lubrication with great results. For padlocks, Master has a brass marine combination padlock that I spray liberally with Break Free and I have never had a problem with the locks I use on my dock box, boat trailer, and boat. It may be a little hard to find. It comes in a black plastic bottle. I usually find it in sporting goods stores in the gun section.
 
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