July 11. We had a wonderful time at Kwatsi. Sort of the culmination of our time up North. However, Marie had enough of the cold, has some concerns about her Mother and a dental problem, so we did the quick trip South. We Initially had the wind behind us as we left Tribute channel. But as we came to Knight Channel it turned against up with about 2 foot chop. The CD 25 handled it fine at about 11 knots. It was small craft to gale force in Johnston Straits, but would be behind us as we ran down the coast. We took a short cut thru the broken islands at the entrance to Havannah Channel to avoid bucking into the heavy seas in Johnstone straights, as we exited. The seas were 5 to 6 foot and wind 30 steady gusting to 35. The boat handled the conditions well, and we averaged 14 knots over the 18 mile run. We used a bit more fuel than usual, since when the boat came off the back of a wave and would stop surfing; it would slow down to 7 knots, and we had to bring the boat back up to speed to catch the next wave. I have done a lot of this type of “sailing”--surfing waves in sailboats, so it was a natural reflex. I felt fortunate that we did not have a “down east” type of boat which would have buried its forefoot and broached. By the time we got to Forward Harbor, just North of Whirlpool rapids, I was beat, (that is what happens when you get old) and we anchored for the night. As we put our stern line ashore, by the entrance, one of the other boats informed us that there had been a black bear in that place only 30 minutes before. We lost count at 15 boats waiting for weather in Forward Harbor, and the parade out started at 5 AM the next morning. The only boats which went on up the straits that evening were over 100 feet long and carried helicopters!
No bears bothered Miss Priss, and we had a restful night, despite a small chop in the bay. We took out time thru Whirlpool and Greene Rapids. Blind channel resort was full of boats waiting for a break in the weather. We fished and drifted along to make the passage thru Dent and Gilliard Rapids near slack, but the CD dances over the rapids, so I suspect that anything less than full flood would have been fine. There were dozens of boats going North-they had been held up by bad weather in Georgia Straits as well as in Johnstone.
We are spending a nice peaceful, warm night in Laura Cove. Air temp at 5:30 PM is 83 and water temp is 70! Full sun. What a contrast a day and 100 miles makes !
The evenings entertainment was watching a Catalina 30 with a young couple trying to anchor with an imitation Danforth. They drug the length of the cove at least a dozen times trying to get the anchor to set. Moral--get a good anchor--a name brand, adequate chain and learn how to set it!...
Refuge cove allowed us to stock up on good produce, ice and fuel, so we are set for a few more days out in the Desolation sound area.
July 13th, Roscoe Cove. Wow--three “perfect days”. Temps in the high 70’s to 80’s, nights in the mid to low 60’s and water temp of 70 degrees. We had never been in Roscoe cove before. It is in West Redonda Island on the South East side. On the way over from Laura cove, we fished--no fish and some lost gear in the rocks...so far $110 for fishing licenses; somewhere near $50 in lost gear and three fish. (I’ll admit I’m no fisherman--but Marie loves to fish--and usually does much better than this.)
There is a reef at the entrance to Roscoe Cove--a large power boat was anchored right in front of the reef. They had a dinghy in the water, with a “man overboard” flag on a fishing pole, and a person with a mask and fins in the water. I asked if there was anything I could do to help them. Cursory reply was “We have a diver in the water”--I was as far as I could be from them going dead slow. We went across about an hour after low water, and had 5’ 4” of water minimum--visibility was excellent. The cove had about 25 boats--many left--including the boat which had been anchored outside of the reef, after spending about two hours in the cove. (maybe will see them on the lift in Campbell River?--I suspect that they tried to cross the reef and dinged a prop or worse.)
We took the short hike to the large lake just above the bay, and had a wonderful bath off a 100 foot long about half a mile up the bay’s shore in a nice little cove. There are lots of great hikes and the water is warm enough for swimming (for most). The entrance looks right toward snow covered peaks. There are thousands of “moon” Jelly fish which seem to breed in this cove.
Last night there were mostly sailboats--about a dozen, and the majority did not use outboards on their dinghies--they rowed them. This. plus lack of PWC’s makes for tranquil anchorages. There was one boat with an excellent female vocalist, and what sounded like one guitar and a mandolin. We were entertained for several hours.
We have only about 150 miles straight back to Sequin...but I hope that we will have good weather and can spend a few days along the way--after all, 150 miles is a long day’s run in a CD 25 (as opposed to the Tom Cat).
July 15; Campbell River. We spent the night of the 13th at Gorge Harbor. It was windy and not as pretty as some of our recent harbors, but a good stop, with wind blowing 20 knots plus all night.
We had a relatively short run to Campbell River, but with some chop, both on the nose and on the beam. The first stop was critical--we needed to pump the holding tank. The macerator pump had gone out over a week before. There were temporary docks, in the process of being built,blocking the pump-out, and no mooring. We rafted next to a 50 foot fishing boat, and I went to the office after attempting to start the pump-out. “Dave” came down, snaked out about 100 feet of pump out hose over the stern of the fishing boat, and was very cooperative in allowing us to completely flush the tank with salt and fresh water. British Columbia’s formal solution to sewage is that you pump it out some place away from anchorages. Most of the washrooms in the coves were positioned directly over the water--thus flush directly into the anchorages.
Next to Discovery harbor marina; first task was to unload about 3 weeks worth of garbage (that which was aluminum or biodegradable)--over 60 lbs worth. Then we flushed the tannin tainted water out of the tanks, and filled up with “good” drinking water. (There are a few places in the Desolation Sound and North which have safe drinking water, but most of these are tinted by the brown from decaying vegetation).
Then off to Ocean Pacific Marine Supply. If they don’t have the item, they will have it by the next morning...Fortunately they had most of the parts I needed; the rest were available at “Canadian Tire” store near by. One of the purchases was a heavy pair of neoprene gloves for bilge cleaning chores. The grocery stores are not perfect, but there is a wide selection of materials available at the “big box” store. I even got a hair cut in the shopping center (it was that or get a dog tag).
The afternoon was spent re-doing the macerator--including fabricating a raised platform for it to sit upon (out of a $5 cutting board)--filling all holes which had not been filled with epoxy, making secure double clamped connections.
By the evening, neither of us could walk well--Marie from the rolling (back/leg pain)--and my back problem aggravated by taking the garbage to the dumpster. We did manage to make it to the “Rip-tide” pub and had a good dinner--crashing at 8: 30 PM.
We did manage to ogle (from a distance) some of the large beautiful yachts. There are a couple over 100 feet in length. One of my favorites is the Nordhavn 62--there is one just off our bow across the gangway.
We seem to be on the “water taxi” and “charter boat” central float. The water taxies which supply all of the resorts and marinas in the Desolation sound. (ATV’s tow small trailers down the gangway from the 18 wheelers which unload the produce and supplies). There are also “dive boats”--(dry suits), Eco tours--(large inflatables with 20 passengers and twin 250 outboards--wonder how eco friendly these are?). Not only did we suffer the wakes from the various boats, but often the gangways were blocked by tourists trying to get their exposure suits on or off, with no consideration for those who wished to pass by.
We did finally see a number of good size salmon at the cleaning station right down the dock. The guides charge $110 an hour; 5 hour min, with no guarantees. They (as well as most businesses which deal with tourism) have to make their money in June, July and August. The “high season” is July 15 thru August 15. We were also told to watch out for the boaters who come out during this time. It certainly proved to be true and many had no idea of what the “rules of the road” are. Sort of defensive driving.....
Today is a “rest” day at Campbell river. The weather looks fairly good, so tomorrow we will head down to Naniamo. Today is more sunshine, and looks as if it will be in the 70’s--shorts and “T” shirt weather. Shucks just when the weather gets nice, we are heading home! But, hopefully next year, we will be able to spend more time up here.
(Marie is making sounds about a Defever 49 or Ocean Alexander 48 ....I suspect next year will be in our CD 25!)
July 16, up early to get fuel--and found that the fuel dock opened at 7 AM instead of 6 AM, as I had been told..oh well. Marie trolled for two hours--lots of fish on the finder, but none had her name on it! The charter boat across from us was bringing back 6 to 8 fish per run--including a second evening charter. (But these guys are experts, and have down riggers etc....) We had 3 to 4 foot following seas thru part of the 90 mile run South--but generally a comfortable day. I saw one of the largest super yachts we have ever seen--well over 200 feet--and defiantly not a “Cruise ship”--It makes on wonder just how much money it takes and how one lives on such a vessel--probably the owner is only there for a fraction of the time.
I had watched a 130 footer with a crew of 4 leave the dock yesterday. It was done with military precision! Even the cook was on deck helping to release lines, with confirmation of each step. The skipper had started all systems about 30 minutes before departure, then ran both thrusters, each direction, each engine thru its forward and reverse. No mistakes or chances! Maybe a 20 million dollar vessel....
Back to Nanaimo -- we will head down Island--perhaps back to the US tomorrow. It depends on the crossing prediction for the Straits of San Juan de Fuca. Marie’s mother is apparently not doing well, and she wants to get home a bit earlier than we had planned. Hopefully it is just missing Marie.
July 17th--back in the USA. Four hours from Nanaimo, with a current with us most of the way and smooth until about mid Straits. Coming around Limestone Pt on San Juan Island, we ran into 4 to 5 foot seas, at 3 second intervals--really step and nasty--once around the point, we were able to get in close to the beach and relatively smooth water until Friday Harbor.
The phone in customs was very pleasant and I was impressed. We will visit some friends in the San Juan Islands in the next days and then head for Sequin. So far we have gone almost 1200 miles, and put a little over 110 hour on the engine. I’ll figure up the fuel consumption when I have a little more time to double check the data. It is considerably cooler in Friday Harbor than it was in Campbell River, Nanaimo or Desolation sound. Friday Harbor is nearly full, and a much different place than when we were here over 6 weeks ago.
Tomorrow is time to visit with our friends who live on the Islands here, and then head to Sequim some time this weekend.