We want to replace the original dorm size fridge that came with our TomCat. It is a Norcold. Its been fine except it no longer works on 12v and its looking a bit gnarly. Anyone have any experience with this? Brands to look for? What to stay away from? Any advice is appreciated.
Fridge replace
- Thread starter Fishstix2
- Start date
journey on
New member
Well, if the original fridge lasted almost 20 years, why not get a new Norcold? We have the same fridge and its still going strong.
The Norcold has a 110 ac to 12 dc converter, so if the thing runs on 110, I'd be puzzled as to why it wouldn't run on 12. Might check if its getting 12 vdc.
Boris
The Norcold has a 110 ac to 12 dc converter, so if the thing runs on 110, I'd be puzzled as to why it wouldn't run on 12. Might check if its getting 12 vdc.
Boris
Pacificcoast101
Member
I replaced mine with the newer version of the original Norcold. It's working fine.
gulfcoast john
New member
Hi Rick &Anita,
The model # label is inside. Model 740 was only 1.7 CF, now 2.0 CF. Model 751 is a significantly larger 2.7 CF. It requires cutting the cabinet opening inside the indentations a bit larger (wear a N95 mask and safety glasses). There is a lot of wasted space in the cabinet under the nav seat to port of the rear of the fridge. It has extremely poor ventilation, which killed my original 1.7 (another brand) fridge. The 751 vents out from the front, no additional vents needed. We changed the door to open from the left.
The good news if you like what you have is that the Danfoss compressor requires 12v DC, either from a good battery (say >12.5v) or 12V converted from 110V AC by the fridge circuits.
Mine has a glass fuse near the 12v plug on the rear of the fridge (which becomes dislodged pretty easily). There is yet another un-labelled fridge ATO fuse in the main helm fuse block under the helm. Pull the fridge out (4 screws) to check the 12v plug, fuse and holder and ck for 12v power. There is a low 12v voltage cut-off in the fridge so it shuts off when your battery gets too low. The cutoff on the old fridge was set at 11.5v, which is way too low for the almost state of the art (in 1905) FLA battery technology I prefer.
PS it’s good practice to pull the helm fuse when the boat is un-attended on shore power to prevent it from automatically switching to 12v and draining your batteries if the marina loses power during a storm, which is exactly when you need full batteries to run the bilge pumps.
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/norcold ... VUEALw_wcB
https://defender.com/en_us/norcold-nr74 ... 93#76=8960
After about eight years the 751 also got rusty and ‘gnarly’. We pulled it out, removed the door, did 5 minutes prep with sandpaper and masking. If you remove the door trim, you can pull out and reverse the door panel trim and use the ‘new’ side. I just sprayed the rusty side with Rustoleum SS paint + primer. For $7.33 if met EBSFCFC (Eileen’s Boat Standards for Cosmetics, Function and Cost) At 16 years I figure I can reverse the trim panel to the ‘new’ side and save yet another 1.2 Boat Units.
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/ ... s-list.pdf
This is an excellent time to add a grab handle that helps the nav person to stay on the seat in rough water. Also handy for heaving yourselves out of the bunk without pulling on the reversing fiberglass seatback support. Pro repair for us cracking that was $300. The 12 inch SS Sea Dog grab rail (matches others) was $19.
The only gripe we’ve had with this model is that the bottom large gasket seal on the non-hinge side tends to retract, allowing an air leak that results in heavy frosting. Even brand new ones in West Marine have this. Pull out the seal as needed and press the bottom of the door firmly closed to prevent this. PM or call for any questions.
Consider coming to the Hontoon Hoot Mar 5-7. Our cat is always lonely there!
Cheers!
John
The model # label is inside. Model 740 was only 1.7 CF, now 2.0 CF. Model 751 is a significantly larger 2.7 CF. It requires cutting the cabinet opening inside the indentations a bit larger (wear a N95 mask and safety glasses). There is a lot of wasted space in the cabinet under the nav seat to port of the rear of the fridge. It has extremely poor ventilation, which killed my original 1.7 (another brand) fridge. The 751 vents out from the front, no additional vents needed. We changed the door to open from the left.
The good news if you like what you have is that the Danfoss compressor requires 12v DC, either from a good battery (say >12.5v) or 12V converted from 110V AC by the fridge circuits.
Mine has a glass fuse near the 12v plug on the rear of the fridge (which becomes dislodged pretty easily). There is yet another un-labelled fridge ATO fuse in the main helm fuse block under the helm. Pull the fridge out (4 screws) to check the 12v plug, fuse and holder and ck for 12v power. There is a low 12v voltage cut-off in the fridge so it shuts off when your battery gets too low. The cutoff on the old fridge was set at 11.5v, which is way too low for the almost state of the art (in 1905) FLA battery technology I prefer.
PS it’s good practice to pull the helm fuse when the boat is un-attended on shore power to prevent it from automatically switching to 12v and draining your batteries if the marina loses power during a storm, which is exactly when you need full batteries to run the bilge pumps.
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/norcold ... VUEALw_wcB
https://defender.com/en_us/norcold-nr74 ... 93#76=8960
After about eight years the 751 also got rusty and ‘gnarly’. We pulled it out, removed the door, did 5 minutes prep with sandpaper and masking. If you remove the door trim, you can pull out and reverse the door panel trim and use the ‘new’ side. I just sprayed the rusty side with Rustoleum SS paint + primer. For $7.33 if met EBSFCFC (Eileen’s Boat Standards for Cosmetics, Function and Cost) At 16 years I figure I can reverse the trim panel to the ‘new’ side and save yet another 1.2 Boat Units.
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/ ... s-list.pdf
This is an excellent time to add a grab handle that helps the nav person to stay on the seat in rough water. Also handy for heaving yourselves out of the bunk without pulling on the reversing fiberglass seatback support. Pro repair for us cracking that was $300. The 12 inch SS Sea Dog grab rail (matches others) was $19.
The only gripe we’ve had with this model is that the bottom large gasket seal on the non-hinge side tends to retract, allowing an air leak that results in heavy frosting. Even brand new ones in West Marine have this. Pull out the seal as needed and press the bottom of the door firmly closed to prevent this. PM or call for any questions.
Consider coming to the Hontoon Hoot Mar 5-7. Our cat is always lonely there!
Cheers!
John
Hi John and Eileen.
I remember meeting you guys when we came to our first ever Hontoon gathering after our TomCat purchase. Great to hear from you again. I will check those fuses as that just might be the issue. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply with such good insight. And if that cures it I just might be able to spend the money for the $7.99 refurb kit— Eileen approved of course!
We have been dealing with covid shutdown B.S. right after our boat purchase, then Hurricane Ian wiped us out, and now family deaths and an elderly pooch who can no longer boat or travel with us, but soon, fingers crossed, we shall be able to cruise up there and rejoin the CBrats. Until then, we are still here in SW Fl so feel free to tie up at our dock or stop in for a quick visit.
I remember meeting you guys when we came to our first ever Hontoon gathering after our TomCat purchase. Great to hear from you again. I will check those fuses as that just might be the issue. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply with such good insight. And if that cures it I just might be able to spend the money for the $7.99 refurb kit— Eileen approved of course!
We have been dealing with covid shutdown B.S. right after our boat purchase, then Hurricane Ian wiped us out, and now family deaths and an elderly pooch who can no longer boat or travel with us, but soon, fingers crossed, we shall be able to cruise up there and rejoin the CBrats. Until then, we are still here in SW Fl so feel free to tie up at our dock or stop in for a quick visit.