Fuse in the dashboard bilge switch?

G

G Gallagher

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C Dory Year
2007
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Reel Salty
I have a2 2 ft cruiser- 2002-

I have a question. I am replacing my bilge pump. Problem is the new one does not work- checked wires for continuity and it leads back to the bilge switch that was factory installed. I think that it probably contains a fuse

I am afraid to pry to hard and screw it all up.

Can anyone give me a little guidence or encouragement on this?

Gary Gallagher
 
I doubt that the switch itself has a built in fuse. Is there a circuit breaker button next to the switch? Or possible the switch is bad.
 
No, there is no fuse or circuit breaker near the switch. Maybe the switch is bad!. However, I am not applying enough pressure to remove the back of the switch.I'm afraid that I will shatter the back of the switch,only to finally realize that I am missing a fuse somewhere else. I'll keep on looking.

Gary
 
If the switch looks like this or is similar to it, No, there is no fuse in it. Don't pry it apart. They don't go back together well.

ancor_sw.jpg


Use a voltmeter to diagnose power to the pump circuit.
 
Doesn't the bilge have an always on connection for automatic operation and a switched connection for manual override? You checked continuity, but do you have a voltmeter to check if you're getting any power?
 
I have had seveal pumps not work right out of the box. test the pump on a battery first to see if it is good. Then test the power to the wires to see if you have power. if not trace the wires back to the switch and the battery to see if there is a fuse. sucks tracing wires but you have to do it. I had to remove a fuel tank on a buddies jet sled to find a fuse for a light. not fun
 
If installed correctly, it was installed as a seperate circuit, and there should be a fuse close to the battery, positive wire. Trace the positive wire from the pump to the battery.
 
It may be a 3 position switch. OFF in the middle, AUTO on one position (when the creek rises :lol: ) and ON for a manual on all the time.

Let us know what sort you have.

Charlie
 
Mine's a 2006 so it could be very different, but my switch at the helm only has auto and on settings, no off. I'm kind of glad because I'd hate to ever bump it and turn it off by accident!
 
cbgale":7xomqbwc said:
If installed correctly, it was installed as a seperate circuit, and there should be a fuse close to the battery, positive wire. Trace the positive wire from the pump to the battery.
Click to expand...

Our boats had one of these hanging off the positive terminal on one of the batteries. It was there, I guess, to keep the bilge pump cycling properly when the boat is in the water and the batteries are off. I used to remove the fuse when the boat was on the trailer and the plug was out..
 
I agree with Marty.
If wired directly to the battery, check if an inline fuse is present.
Second check each wire connector for flaws (not waterproof, heat sealed, use automotive connector instead of marine) or a corroded wire at the connector.

Post an update.
These problems are not always straightforward to resolve

m2cw
 
I'm not sure what bilge pump you're using for a replacement, but here are a few comments.

First, the Rule-Mate pump I bought to replace the original model had a electronic float switch, which will not work in oil. It had a separate test switch, which one pushes and holds. No idea how it "tests" the circuit.

Second, if you have a Rule-Mate exactly like the one which came with the boat, it has an internal float switch, so that one has to either manually push the float up or stick it in a bucket of water, or flood the hull. Your choice.

Third, both pump types (and others) come with 3 wires: one for return, one for manual operation, and one for emergency operation. The first, which is black, goes to the battery ground. The second, which is brown is the one which goes directly to the battery for automatic operation, via a fuse. The third goes to the DC panel switch for manual operation. The panel switch has a breaker incorporated next to it, the white button. Please check to make sure you're wiring and mine are the same. You should see what the wires are doing and going with a voltmeter.

I don't trust automatic thingies in emergencies, especially those hecho en Mexico, so I bought a pump which uses an external float switch and installed pump and float switch in place of the Rule-Mate pump. This pump came with the three wires as discussed above, and works great.

Bon appetit, Boris
 
OK, Thanks for all the info and help. I found it.!!! There is a fuse about 10-12 inches from the positive terminal of the battery.

My problem was that my red wire which was hard to see and trace became an orange wire of larger guage, that contained the blown fuse. I overlooked it several times , before seeing the change.

Again, many thanks for ll the help.

Gary
 
Now that you have traced the bilge pump wire, and most likely several others, use a labeler and out and ID on each wire--preferably on each end of the wire, and each place where you an see it.
 
Bob,

What a great idea. I'll do it.

Gary
 
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