Galley Storage in Tom Cat 255/ C D 25

T

thataway

Active member
We are at the point of tackling the storage area under the galley. In the Tom Cat 255, this is somewhat complicated by the extra hoses from the macerator, Shower, the sink/hotwater heater overflow and the Wallas stove fuel.

I have run thru the albums and see the baskets from Home Depot--about 12" wide (Doors on galley are slighty over 14", but there is a fair amount of space below the kick board--so that is sort of "wasted"- (TP and paper towel storage?)--have to be able to get to the pumps under the floor in the the hull.

At this point Marie thinks that we would be best with a single shelf about 12" down from the Wallas bottom, cantalevered to mate with the sink, but removable. Cutouts for hoses and set back from the fuel for the stove.

We would then use plastic containers for storage. The plate/cup storage teak rack we purchased from H L Teak--is too wide (it would have been ok on the CD 22)--so we are cutting it down (tears) and will use that on the foreward galley door. We have a "binocular rack" for bowels and small plates on the aft door.

We are open to other suggestions or storage which has worked well for others.

Thanks!
 
Hi, Thataway

We're still resolving water leaks in the plumbing in that area but look forward to ideas for this VERY LARGE (potentially) area!

Bob Cat
 
This is what I did on my 22 and then also on the current 25. The picture is of the 22. I can't find one I took of the 25. The lower cut-out hinges down for access under the shelf I built.
Cabinet_002.sized.jpg


There are some other pictures of the 22 HERE
 
Here is the same idea as on David's old CD22 on our CD25. This works really well, David designed it and the factory built it on both of our CD25s this way.

PICT0026.sized.jpg
 
Gentleman,
Thank you all so much for sharing the photos. They do give me another option or two! The Tom Cat has a post in the center between the two doors, which causes some limits--but I think that a bottom "shelf, which comes out for access to the hatch, and pumps/connections below the floor, and hinging of the baseboard sections has definate potential. Back to the tapemeasure and pieces of cardboard!

Regards,
 
Hey, Dr. Bob

How about we just cut out that middle stanchion support, which makes it very difficult to work under there anyway, and use the shelves that are available? It doesn't look like it will make any difference. Do you sit on your sink/stove top?

Bob Cat
 
Won't work. The factory changed the way they constructed the galley cabinet. When they did mine and others near mine (Pat's also) the cabinet doors came together without the center post. A little later the factory made a change and put in the center post. If you take out the center post the doors would be several inches apart from each other when in the closed position.
 
Bob,
I personally think that the center post has a prupose--and there must have been a reason. One could put in an overlap from one of the doors to close the gap, and perhaps put secondary compression posts on the inside, so that baskets could be used when both doors (and center post are open)--but the center post, distributes the weight--from an engineering standpoint--over a lot of the floor space, and I suspect that is why it was done. I also wondered about it--and there may still be ways around it--as in putting more large drawers...it only takes money!

Incidently I dropped by the local electronics shop to get some ferrite beads (have some interference from the Lowrance LCX 26 on the vhf radios)--and asked "how much to install the cheapest Raymarine Autopilot" Answer " 16 hours at $100 an hour!"....Needless to say, if I put in a pilot, I do it my self! I hate to think how much I have "cost" myself in the last 2 months!. The Bimini and camper enclosure is on its way (frame is up anyway)--so I'll have reports on that next week.

Thanks!
 
Thataway

We use plastic containers below the galley. Two large ones and three smaller ones, from Walmart. Dixie also uses containers under the rear dinette seat.

While on the summer cruise we determined that the reversible seat was just not used, so I had the factory remove it, and installed another cabinet on the port side front. Where the foot space is for the "Barber Chair". This adds another 24" or so base cabinet. I put in two shelves, and with the top giving more counter space, it looks to be a welcome addition. The boat has always been a little starboard side heavy, the new cabinet may allow us to more evenly distribute the load. I will get pix, and post them soon.
 
I looked at this space on Dive Cat this morning, remembering the difficulty I've had replacing watermaker filters and adding shower water supply for the transom shower. I'm going to cut out the upright and put a backer behind one of the cabinet doors so it fills in the space. I can't see any reason for the upright since the CD25 has the same weight on top. I'll start looking for the basket drawers to put in there.

This fully utilized space combined with the cabinet space that Discovery put ahead of the seat on the port side will provide a lot of extra storage.

Bob Cat
 
I looked at the idea of putting a storage area in the area in front of the helm seat. After playing around with my sitting positions, I realized I sometimes semi/sit with my feet on the floor, in this area. By folding down the back of the seat, this acts like a "leaning post" which I use on my center console boat. I think I will put an area outboard of where I can stand, for spotlights, my ditch bag, and perhaps the temporary docking line--open so I can grab all of these easily. Either a solid piece of starboard for the inner aspect of this, or several teak battens.

I have modified the H L combination silver, plate and cup rack, to be 13 1/2 " wide, and this is just barely the geometry which will fit thru the opening behind the door, when mounted. Unfortunaely we loose the cup holder part, but it gives us a place for spatchlas, large spoons etc.

Let us know how the enlarged door works, Bob.

Regards,
 
Just wondering if anyone remembered the size or part numbers of the Rev-a-Shelf wire baskets and the door mounted shelves for a TC? Thanks.
 
Like Discovery (hi Brent and Dixie), I use large plastic containers (with lids) on the existing shelves. We find them very convenient, just hold the lid back as you slide the container out. I have three of them under the galley, just not under the sink. Sorry, don't have a picture handy, but will take one when I get a chance. This system has worked for us for 7 yrs now and I don't plan on changing them.

Now, for under the passenger seats, I may have to build in some special slide-outs as others have done, and possibly under the captain's chair to maximize those spaces. All very good ideas!
 
The brand of the baskets we have is Rev-A-Shelf. Here is the site that we ordered from. I don't see precisely the same one, but just measure your space and compare to their specs. However, we are thinking about replacing them now, as the marine environment has not been kind to them. If I were to put these in now, I would for sure spay the heck out of the exposed sliding parts with BoeShield.

dbrena":18caebjh said:
Just wondering if anyone remembered the size or part numbers of the Rev-a-Shelf wire baskets and the door mounted shelves for a TC? Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
thataway":1rnw3csp said:
I personally think that the center post has a prupose--and there must have been a reason. One could put in an overlap from one of the doors to close the gap, and perhaps put secondary compression posts on the inside, so that baskets could be used when both doors (and center post are open)--but the center post, distributes the weight--from an engineering standpoint--over a lot of the floor space, and I suspect that is why it was done. I also wondered about it--and there may still be ways around it--as in putting more large drawers...it only takes money!
Click to expand...

Bob, do you still feel that the center post is necessary? I was thinking that 3/4" Decraguard has a lot of lateral (not sure if that is the right term) strength to support the cabinet top.

Warren
 
Ours has the center post too. Not a big problem as I can get around that aesthetically. I like the bottom pot/pan storage idea w/ the fold down access, but w/ the center post in the way, it's useless. I'm not totally confident in the stability of the span, as built, without the center post, so I've left it as is for now. The cabinet is merely put together with "L" brackets and screws; not exactly a strong joint. :roll:

My plan: remove the top and make a new one with formica, moving the Wallas and sink forward in the process, adding a soap dispenser and storage in the now increased rear area and finishing off the backsplash. At that time I'll look into re-enforcing the front cabinet, probably with blocking, glue etc, so I can eliminate the center post.

I don't think removing it would weaken it under normal use, but should you lean on it or put a lot of weight on it...
 
Good idea on the Formica Mark, I have been looking at that also, certainly would be inexpensive to do and a wide selection of color/and style choices to brighten up the cabin.
 
Don and Brenda":1l3xrkcw said:
Good idea on the Formica Mark, I have been looking at that also, certainly would be inexpensive to do and a wide selection of color/and style choices to brighten up the cabin.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That was my thinking; it's just too "white" in there. It's almost sterile. :lol: I've got a partial sheet of dark brown/black "granite" my son gave me. They used it in his house and it was extra, so the builder left it in the garage. Might even be enough for the dinette table too, but I'll have to measure.

Once that is done I'll look at storage. I'll probably just add shelves of some kind. Meredith likes the tubs; low tech, tough and you can pull them out of the boat if need be.
 
Warren,
I think that you could engineer a stronger top --as Local Boy suggests, and do away with the center posts. You probably could get away with removing it--as long as you didn't get the wood on the top wet, or put a lot of weight on it. As pointed out, this is just "L" brackets and screws--not glued and laminated up.--I recently purchased a RV--about the same year as my Tom Cat--some of the movable plywood shelves were bowed--they were shorter across than the galley of the Tom Cat (about 3 x 3 feet square). This was easily solved by epoxying "strong backs" out of 1x2 or 1x3" lumber on the under side--and staining these to match the other wood. If I was removing the support in the center of the Tom Cat galley, I would glue 1x3 pieces under in the front and back--that should give enough support.
 
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