After years of great enjoyment our new CD, Sweetpea is in need of some much needed tlc. Not wanting to steal another thread I thought I would start another. My gelcoat is heavily oxidized. What do you use, and are there any special tricks to bring new life back into 20 year old gelcoat?
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Gelcoat oxidation?
- Thread starter bshillam
- Start date
I've used both compounds (rubbing compounds) and sandpaper (wet/dry). I've had good results with both. That makes sense, as essentially what both methods are doing is the same thing: removing a very thin layer of (oxidized) gelcoat to get down to the good (shiny) stuff.
The one caveat is that gelcoat on any boat is only so thick, so there comes a point when there is no longer enough "good stuff" left under the oxidation. Then if it were me I would likely use a two-part paint to restore the boat (depending on boat/use of course).
Whether or not said point is reached depends on how thick the original gelcoat was, and how many times or how aggressively it was rubbed/sanded in the past.
For compounds I've used both Meguiars and 3M brands. They each make varying grades from mild (sometimes combined with wax) to aggressive. The first time I tried it - after doing part of a rather oxidized boat by hand, and then with a "hobby' buffer and not seeing a lot of difference, a friend came by with a "real" buffer (a big Milwaukee with a Superbuff type pad, but there are other brands now too), and .... instant shine! I borrowed that buffer for the rest of the job (oh my aching shoulders :cry) , and rented one since then for compounding jobs (until buying one).
For wet-sanding, you have to sort of feel it out as to where to start. Somewhere in the 600 range maybe, give or take. Then work up to 1000 or even 1500 for a nice shine.
You may want to test in an inconspicuous area (or maybe even find an old boat or dinghy to try it out on first) .
The one caveat is that gelcoat on any boat is only so thick, so there comes a point when there is no longer enough "good stuff" left under the oxidation. Then if it were me I would likely use a two-part paint to restore the boat (depending on boat/use of course).
Whether or not said point is reached depends on how thick the original gelcoat was, and how many times or how aggressively it was rubbed/sanded in the past.
For compounds I've used both Meguiars and 3M brands. They each make varying grades from mild (sometimes combined with wax) to aggressive. The first time I tried it - after doing part of a rather oxidized boat by hand, and then with a "hobby' buffer and not seeing a lot of difference, a friend came by with a "real" buffer (a big Milwaukee with a Superbuff type pad, but there are other brands now too), and .... instant shine! I borrowed that buffer for the rest of the job (oh my aching shoulders :cry) , and rented one since then for compounding jobs (until buying one).
For wet-sanding, you have to sort of feel it out as to where to start. Somewhere in the 600 range maybe, give or take. Then work up to 1000 or even 1500 for a nice shine.
You may want to test in an inconspicuous area (or maybe even find an old boat or dinghy to try it out on first) .
I'm not a pro but; I'd try like Sunbeam stated. Wash the boat & dry it. Using a mild buffing compound on a 6/7" buffer start in an less noticeable location. See what happens. White is relatively "forgiving" vs dark colors but you may still see some swirl marks. Start w/ med pressure and as the shine comes out lighten it. Keep the pad moving so you don't build up heat. Follow w/ a good quality wax. There are lots of videos on-line but it is a learned skill. My cabin top was bad and I did it in an afternoon. Looks like new again.
I used some 3M Finesse It. You may have to go a little harsher if the gel-coat is really bad, but you don't want to burn through what gel-coat is left. That's why I start w/ the least aggression grit and see what happens.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=625
I used some 3M Finesse It. You may have to go a little harsher if the gel-coat is really bad, but you don't want to burn through what gel-coat is left. That's why I start w/ the least aggression grit and see what happens.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=625
Wayne McCown
New member
I have a 1973 13' Scamp trailer. The (white) gelcoat was completely worn through in places (esp. the roof). I spent $10 on white spray paint, and then applied Poli-Glow.
My brother applied Poli-Glow to a 1975 (blue and white) Peep Hen I gave him. The blue was heavily oxidized. He applied Poli-Glow.
Both came out looking like new!
So last summer I applied Poli-Glow to our 1994 5th wheel trailer, as well as our 1999 CD-22.
Both still look like new!
(No, this is not a commercial! But we are very pleased with this product.)
My brother applied Poli-Glow to a 1975 (blue and white) Peep Hen I gave him. The blue was heavily oxidized. He applied Poli-Glow.
Both came out looking like new!
So last summer I applied Poli-Glow to our 1994 5th wheel trailer, as well as our 1999 CD-22.
Both still look like new!
(No, this is not a commercial! But we are very pleased with this product.)
Kelly Lynn
New member
I would try Buff Magic by Yacht Brite. You can purchase it from Defender Marine. My buddy used it on his boat which had oxidation it came out looking like almost new. Also if you do a search on the internet/you tube you can find some products that just might work. I would use a buffer to assist you in the process.
Unfortunately there are no short cuts or miracles. Things like Poly glow can build up, and then turn yellow--eventually they have to be stripped off. Painting after some polish is more difficult, because of the silicones present. Penetrol will give you an almost instant rejuvenation, but it is an oil, and eventually will degrade.
I had one boat where the gel coat had failed. This boat spent its first 15 years in the Mooring Charter fleet in the Caribbean. The "cure" was to sand off most of the gel coat. Fair and fill--then two part epoxy primer, fair and fill, then more primer-finally coats of two part Awlgrip. The Awlgrip is good for about 10 to 12 years. Some boats, such as Hatteras never has gel coat--it is painted from the get go.
I agree that 3 M makes some of the best abrasive compounds for rubbing out the gel coat and restoration. The very best buffer is air driver and cost about $300. I have owned several of the electric ones, and they do a good job, but less work with the lighter high quality air driven machine.
I had one boat where the gel coat had failed. This boat spent its first 15 years in the Mooring Charter fleet in the Caribbean. The "cure" was to sand off most of the gel coat. Fair and fill--then two part epoxy primer, fair and fill, then more primer-finally coats of two part Awlgrip. The Awlgrip is good for about 10 to 12 years. Some boats, such as Hatteras never has gel coat--it is painted from the get go.
I agree that 3 M makes some of the best abrasive compounds for rubbing out the gel coat and restoration. The very best buffer is air driver and cost about $300. I have owned several of the electric ones, and they do a good job, but less work with the lighter high quality air driven machine.
Definately; air tools rock. But you will need a compressor large enough to "keep up" w/ the tool to use it too. I have a large compressor set up for painting etc, but I used a cheap Harbor Frt buffer on the roof and hull. It cost >$40 on sale, but it's basically "disposable", so you get what you pay for. And the HF "pads" are total crap.