getting anchor set up for use.

journey on":12mwtx96 said:
I've been anchoring for ~40 years and I'm always learning something new. The above advice is excellent, but there is one important point I'd like to mention.

So here's my advice. Read what you can, think about it a little, and then the important part. GO PRACTICE. Not in the middle of a cruise, but somewhere easy, such as the edge of a harbour, where it's calm and not too deep. Try setting the anchor, backing down, riding to it, retrieving the !@@#$ thing and stowing/cleaning it.

You'll find out that it's straightforward and easy, you will gain confidence and you'll keep learning, little by little.

Boris

Wholeheartedly agree - practice is absolutely key to anchoring success. Once you've learned by doing a number of times, and survived a few windy nights, you'll be comfortable.
 
I'm enjoying this thread. I've anchored a fair number of times, but I've picked up a few pointers and mentally reviewed as I read it. Good stuff :thup (Plus, the 22 is a whole new kettle of fish for me.)

Hunkydory":37kdm4y0 said:
IWith overkill still on my mind, went with a Lewmar 700H along with a Wireless controller. ....This has now lead me to the purchase today of a 25 lb Manson Boss...

Sure Jay, first I had to buy the wireless remote (after seeing you using it on Powell) and now my 15# Manson Supreme feels puny. Underkill! :wink

Of course now that I have a windlass...
 
I really appreciate all the information posted up here! lots of good insight. after thinking it over we are going to go with the 8 plait rope and 25' of G4 HT chain, defender has a pre made one that will fit the bill although they do not specify if acco is the maker of chain I have an email out to them now asking this. they also seem to have the best deal I could find on the web for a rode.
the premade one is 300' overall 25 of chain and 275 rope. hoping that with the plait it will all fit in the locker.

The windlass is on the radar for a late season add on or winter project so We will only be anchoring without one this year. I am 95% sold on the lewmar 700 sport fishing model.( I will have questions on proper use of this when it gets added on). the EZ pull anchor deal was something we purchased back when we had our olympic boat and even then never used it. Figured we had it so mine as well use it. there was also discussion of using our shrimp pot puller to pull the anchor as well. but in the end we will get a windlass.

also i like the break away set up thataway posted and will rig ours the same. for now we will use the danforth but imagine we will go with a mason sometime this summer.
 
We have 300ft of 1/2 inch 3 strand plus 35 ft of G4 1/4 inch chain in our locker. It is very full and sometimes one of us has to be in the vee berth making sure the rode does not pile up too much but it does fit. 8 plait, I'm told, lays much flatter.
 
I can't resist. I've used the following anchors, in order of appearance:

Danforth - all through So Cal, sand, mud, rocks kelp, worked great.

CQR -Heavy duty plow, hooks in rocks, heavy enough for kelp, travels in mud (plow). unbreakable

Fortress -Small ones not heavy enough to set, unless in sand.

Bruce -great in sand, mud, catches rocks (good), doesn't set well in kelp

Manson Supreme -good in sand, kelp, travels in mud (small cross section.)

For the best all around use, I'll vote for a Danforth. I think a Bruce is better in mud, but the Danforth works. And everything works well in sand, that's why they test them there.

So try the Danforth.

And this is all my opinion, yours will vary.

Boris
 
Sneaky, Boris.... slipping in a "which anchor" debate 8)

I'll say that many anchors can work well, some work well in variety of conditions and situations, and work well but in specific conditions or situations. And yes, I'm leading up to why I wouldn't carry a Danforth for my primary anchor (but why Jake might).

A weakness of the Danforth (and all anchors have one/some) is that it may not reliably re-set with a wind or tide shift. I tend to either leave my boat at anchor, or sleep aboard, and I don't want to wonder if the tide/wind might change and cause a re-set problem. So I prefer other anchors (have successfully used Bruce, CQR, and Manson Supreme) for a primary anchor.

I do like a Danforth for a stern hook (e.g. to keep the stern from swinging in a narrow channel), or for a lunch hook (i.e. not leaving the boat or going to sleep).

Anyway, that's my "contribution."

Sunbeam
 
Dreamer":3bxpmejc said:
Jake, I have a copy of "The complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring by Earl Hinz. It has more info on anchoring than you will ever need but a lot of good info too. As you know, I'm in Sequim too. PM me if you want to borrow it.

Good book. Tons of info.

And as usual, Roger is correct. The details in that book made me feel, at times, like I was back in college. :lol: :roll: :wink:

For the PNW I like the Delta. Seems to handle just about every bottom we've ever encountered "up here". We have a small Bruce for a lunch hook or back-up etc, but we have never used it.
 
Here is a photo of Hunkydory's 25# Boss anchor on the right.
007_G.jpg

And here on the boat:



009_G.jpg

I hope that Jay does not mind my posting his photos.

After looking at the specs and the only Manson Anchor my local West Marine had in stock (a 15# Supreme--I went ahead and ordered the 10# Manson Boss. Its fluke area seems to be the same as the 15 Manson Supreme. In private discussion, Jay pointed out correctly that the 25 # anchor should set faster. He is correct. It will be interesting to see what the holding power of both of these anchors is. My guess is that the Manson will be like the light weight Fortress anchors, the lightweight anchors will have good holding power--and penetration.
 
Thank you all for the input. we are going to try the Danforth. and see how it does . that is an interesting point sunbeam about wind shift in the middle of the night. as we will be sleeping on the hook this summer.

we will just have to see how she does. Dingy and rode have all shown up now and all I need now is to uncover the boat wash and wax and start experimenting..

I think until we get the windlass I will be storing rode in a bucket and it will be easier to use rather than the small hole originally installed in 89 for access to locker.
 
I would suggest a milk crate or laundry basket rather than a bucket. This way the water will drain out. I find the plastic milk crates (or purchased at boating shops now days), are ideal for storage of many items on boats.

The issue with storing a bucket or crate on the C Dory is potential compromise of view forward--and not easy to take that much weight aft. That is why folks put the anchor rode down the hawse pipe, after the line has drained. Not that hard to do.
 
milk crate will work good too and i will see about feeding it down once it has drained and see how much of a pain it is... the opening for the rode on the bow is about the same diameter as the chain is.(it has been a while since i looked closely at it) but seems much smaller than some of the others i have seen in the albums here.
 
Hi!

Just for the edification of the marine language officianadoes amongst us, the opening for the anchor rode in the foerdeck is called the "deck pipe".

See some examples here:

Deck Pipe

Joe. :lol: :thup
 
Joe is correct, traditionally the Hawsepipe is "an inclined pipe leading from a hawsehole to the side of a ship, containing the shank of the anchor when the anchor is raised." or the timber or metal ring which the anchor chain or rode passes thru at the bow of a ship However, the modern definition includes the deck pipe--as illustrated if you google hawsepipe or look for illustrations on the internet you will find illustrations of the "deck pipe"

To be correct for Joe--the deck pipe generally comes in two sizes on the C Dory--one is the size which will just allow chain to pass thru--and often will not allow a shackle or splice this is usually in a boat will chain rode. The more common one is large enough to allow your hand to go thru, and it is fairly easy to feed the rode into.
 
Bob-

Thanks for clarifying that!

I wouldn't ever want to be known as a sailor that didn't know his hawsepipe from his deck pipe! :wink:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Bob, I was happy to see you had put up the photos of the 25 lb Manson Boss on the Hunkydory in this thread. Before buying it on line & on sale from Defenders, I had searched all over trying to find a photo of it on something that it's actual size could be related to with zero luck, so maybe this will help someone else thinking about the Manson Boss anchor. There was enough information out now, about this new generation anchor to convince me to purchase it & it would appear the same for you, but only it's use will totally confirm its value compared to the others used in the past. I do have high expectations for this anchor, but it was a shock to see just how big it was on arrival.

Jay
 
The Manson Boss anchor also comes in 15 lb size. This should be ample for most of us with 22' cruisers. They are expensive and we do not have much C-Dory 'history' on them. I am very happy with my 15 lb Manson Supreme, so I'll not be changing anytime soon.

Martin.
 
Martin,
There will probably not be much difference in holding power between the Manson Supreme and Boss. You are correct that the Boss costs more than the Supreme--and I don't know why. In the 2014 West Marine Catalogue the 10# Boss is $240, and the 15# Boss is $299. The 15# Supreme is listed at $219, or less than the 10# Boss. The Ronca 13# is the same price as the 15# Supreme.

When I get my 10# next week, I'll post a photo, and hopefully, I'll throw the Caracal in the water, which has a 140 hp on it--and we well see how the 10# sets and holds. The 10# Boss has a length of the fluke of 13 7/8", the Supreme 15# has a length of the fluke of 13". The 10# Boss has a width of the flukes of 13 1/8", and the Supreme 15# has a width of the fluke of 11".,

Thus it appears that there is more fluke area in the 10# Boss than in the 15# supreme. The Boss seems flatter--I am not sure how that equates to holding power. What is key, is weight in the tip--I don't know how to measure that, but the Boss does not have a roll bar--and appears to have as much weight in the tip. Only time and testing will tell.
 
Martin, I agree with the Manson Boss 15 lb being the better choice for most with a CD 22 & perhaps would have been for me too. Bob, gave me the heads up information about the new generation Manson Boss following my mentioning on a different thread about not being entirely satisfied with the 15 lb Manson Supreme, which I'd purchased just before installing a windless. With the installation of the windless & no longer having to pull all that weight by hand, I thought for me the 25 lb Manson Supreme a better choice. Bob informed me the new Manson Boss 15 Lb anchor with its larger fluke size could well be the equal of the 25 lb Manson Supreme in the soft mud conditions that I told him I'd had problems in the past with the 22 lb Claw & I thought might still with the 15 lb Supreme. I wanting perhaps extreme overkill due to our general choice of cruising area & style, chose the 25 lb Manson Boss over both the 15 lb Boss & the 25 lb Supreme, but wouldn't necessarily recommend the same to others with a CD 22.

My main concern now is as Bob pointed out "Weight on the tip". On the test I've read about made with the Manson Boss anchor this did did not seem to be a problem. I'll find out for sure if it is or not in May & June in the PNW.

I too was very surprised at the pricing & now with having both a Manson Supreme & Boss can say the workmanship on the Supreme is superior to the Boss at least in appearance. Which seems strange to me being as they are made by the same company & the one somewhat lacking is by far the most expensive.

Jay
 
Very interesting to see the photos of the 25# Boss on the 22 - thanks Jay and Thataway for those.

On the rode storage, just another idea: On the Powell trip I carried a second anchor and rode (~11# Claw, 20' of 1/4" chain, and around 200' of 1/2" 3-strand) and needed someplace to put them. I also figured I might want to anchor either from the bow or the stern with it. As a bit of an experiment, I bought a relatively inexpensive duffel bag from Wal-Mart and used that to stow both the rode and anchor. And actually it worked great. I was able to carry the whole works from bow to stern, store whatever part of the rode I wasn't using in the duffel while the rest was deployed (and it had handles to secure it on deck in windy conditions). IIRC there were a couple of grommets in the bottom for drainage, and I secured the bitter end to the bag (mostly to keep the bag from blowing away if it came to that).

I probably won't use a $20 Wal-Mart duffel permanently, but I may make something similar-but-higher-quality. It just worked so well, didn't scratch the boat, made the whole thing portable, etc. (I'd never had an anchor and rode that weren't stowed in a locker before.) There may be some problem with it that the single location (Powell) didn't uncover though (such as super muddy rode coming aboard). Perhaps the same concept made of something like Phifertex (?)
 
Fortress makes both anchor bags and bags for combo anchors and rode--and sold as a set. As far as muddy rodes--they should be cleaned before put into any kind of storage.

We carry our spare anchors (3 Fortress) (and props) under the dinette floor--along with spare rodes. I doubt that the 10 lb Boss will go there!

Interesting to find that Jay felt that the Boss was not as well made as the Supreme.
 
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