Getting Daydream on a Plane on the Loop

Changing a prop is not much fiddling. Usually only takes 10 min or less. We I'm cruising and want to change the prop I'll find a sandy little beach, back Meander in and stand ankle deep in the water with the motor tipped up. Easy peasy. Done.
If you don't have a lower pitch prop (like you'd use for Lake Powell) just pick one up a pitched lower than what you have. Most of us carry a spare cause anyway just in case. You won't regret having the option to cross Lake Ontario, some of the big lakes on the Trent Severn, and chunks of Lake Huron and Michigan in 1/2 the time. Once you have developed your prop changing skills it will be easy to change to the one that suits your crossing.
Cheers
Ron
 
OK, I checked and we have a Quicksilver 15.5 x 15. This prop works great at sea level, although we are nowhere loaded as heavily in the PNW as we are for the Loop. It is obviously too much prop for the way we are loaded here. And when you folks say you are "heavily loaded," I seriously doubt you are heavily loaded the way WE are "heavily loaded"!

My spare prop is the stainless one that came on the BF150 from C-Dory, I could dig it out and check. It would probably work better, since it did not work well at sea level, it did not give us adequate speed when it was at 5,000-5,500 RPMs as I recall. Maybe I will switch to it. I have a few days we will need to wait to cross Ontario anyway.
 
Ron on Meander":2jb3c28e said:
Changing a prop is not much fiddling. Usually only takes 10 min or less. We I'm cruising and want to change the prop I'll find a sandy little beach, back Meander in and stand ankle deep in the water with the motor tipped up. Easy peasy. Done.
If you don't have a lower pitch prop (like you'd use for Lake Powell) just pick one up a pitched lower than what you have. Most of us carry a spare cause anyway just in case. You won't regret having the option to cross Lake Ontario, some of the big lakes on the Trent Severn, and chunks of Lake Huron and Michigan in 1/2 the time. Once you have developed your prop changing skills it will be easy to change to the one that suits your crossing.
Cheers
Ron
Click to expand...

There are no "sandy beaches" on the Erie Canal, or the Oswego Canal where we will be shortly! We are always either at a floating dock or tied to a concrete wall! I can tip the motor up and change the prop from the kayak I suppose!
 
Pat I would try to change to the SS prop. That is really lugging the engine. Not any real issue at the displacement speed--but is is if you try and plane.

I have changed outboard props a number of times from the dinghy. Just don't drop anything! Be sure and have an extra cotter pin, and crown nut aboard. Props are relatively cheap. But if you are never going to try and plane--what you have now is OK.

I was just conferring with another C Brat about props on the 25. For Powell, with our loaded 25 and the 130 Honda, we found we did best with the 11" pitch. We also used the 13" pitch for our Alaska Cruise--where we had everything we needed for a month aboard. Even with the 130, we did better MPH than you are doing.
 
Let me echo the advice about being careful with the thrust washer, castle nut and cotter pin. Changing the prop is super easy, but don't drop the hardware in the drink. We carry spares for the washer and nut, plus lots of cotter pins. I prefer to not reuse the pins.
 
iYou're gonna kill that engine . Worst thing you can do is lug it . Get an appropriate size aluminum for the load you have . Or you may get to buy that Yamaha of your dreams prematurely.
Marc
 
Wefings":26x7k0xc said:
iYou're gonna kill that engine . Worst thing you can do is lug it . Get an appropriate size aluminum for the load you have . Or you may get to buy that Yamaha of your dreams prematurely.
Marc
Click to expand...

Marc, we knew it was struggling for the brief periods we ran at WOT, probably less than a minute. It does not SEEM like we are lugging it at 2,000 RPMs, but one comment one my blog says if it is lugging the engine at WOT, it is lugging it at all RPMs. Do you agree with that? We have already run 2,100 miles at 2,000 RPMs! I am going to change to the SS prop, I will dig it out and post its diameter and pitch today!

So what prop SHOULD I have based on the numbers posted above for the Quicksilver 15.5 x 15? Assuming I could even find a prop in Oswego?
 
OK, folks, the original Honda prop says is an "S3 x 14 1/2 x 15R," so don't know if this would help a lot. I assume this means it is a stainless 3 blade, but I don't know which is pitch and which is diameter. Online research says I get 200 more RPMs for every 1/4 less diameter but only 200 more RPMs for each 1" less of pitch. So either I get 800 more RPMs if the 14 1/2 is the diameter or 200 more iRPMs if it is the pitch by switching props. Either way, I think I would be better off. Correct? We have looked all around, there is simply no place I can buy another prop in Fulton, and it does not even look like there is anywhere in Oswego. The one marine store in Fulton is closed on Saturdays!
 
Yamaha , Honda and newer suzuki's all share the same propshaft .
The worst thing is pushing it hard but the overpropped theory at all RPMs is valid . I would look for a prop shop and have em knock as much pitch out as you can on one of them .
Marc
 
For better or worse, the prop has been changed back to the original 14.5 x 15 stainless three blade prop.

One question, when I put the castle nut on, I tightened it as far as I could without excessive force, and then backed it off to where I could see the cotter pin hole. I inserted the cotter pin, but the castle nut seems a bit looser than it should be. My options now are leave it the way it is, or go back and see if I can tighten it further to expose the cotter pin hole. Which was is correct?

BTW, the old Quicksilver prop has a HUGE chunk missing from one blade, probably the result of polishing a rock somewhere along the line. I don't see any point in keeping it, but without it, I will not have a spare prop, unless I can buy one along the way. What would you do?
 
Keep it. If it's a S/S prop, it could be repaired and they are $$ to replace. Plus one with a nick missing is better than none, should you need it.

As long as the prop is tight with no vibrations, you should be fine. If you can move it or the nut, it should be tighter. You want it SNUG. The torque specs on the prop shaft is very low, like 20 ft lbs IIRC.
 
FWIW - Mercury Marine specifies 55 ft pounds which is pretty significant. To give you an idea- 20 foot lbs equates to pulling on the wrench as hard as I can with my hand at the base of the wrench.
 
Hang onto that prop for an emergency. The defect makes a difference at high speed--less at low speed--could get you to safety if necessary.

Let us know what the numbers are, next time you have to try a plane. The missing chunk, could have been part of the problem with your WOT speed.
 
OK, I will hang on to the old prop for the time being. Here is what it looks like! You can see the big chunk out of the blade on the lower right! This is a Quicksilver aluminum prop, don't remember the cost but it was not really expensive. It was a champion performer for us at sea level in the PNW though!

Old_Prop.sized.jpg
 
Marie says "Jaws must have grabbed that prop." I think you understated its condition. Yes, you can hammer it straight, and file off any of the jagged parts--and get home. With a good prop, you should get better performance.

Glad you changed to the spare prop. You can mail order an extra one, and have it sent to a marina down the way. Aluminum props are not expensive.

Thanks for posting the photos...
 
The last # is usually the pitch - so it should be 15. Nor sure what the R is unless its a P with a scratch making it look like a R. Rake is not usually stamped on the prop.

Agree a prop that damaged will not perform to spec. Emerg. low speed use only. At high speed it can cause vibrations that can damage other driveline components.

Agree - I would not pay to have it repaired considering the cost of replacing it. I have repaired them myself for spare use. Adding weld to the missing section - Making a template of a good blade from a piece of stiff leather then grinding/filling all blades to match the template. Hammering cup on all blades to match. This will make it "sort of" balanced but I still would not trust it for full time use. Larger - more expensive props may be worth having professionally repaired and balanced.

The last prop I bought is a 2 piece (Turning Point). The 2 piece props make it cheaper to replace just the blade.

Its a good/satisfying experience to know you can change your prop while on the water. Wind, deep/rough water can change the fun of that ball game though :? . When do things ever screw up at an opportune time?

Hope your new/old prop improves your performance.

Rob
 
Pat,

Sorry late in this* but you may be missing a major point about getting on plane and
then poor performance with ALL THAT WEIGHT MOVED TO THE BOW.

Sure, it will help getting on plane but after that your boat will be BOW HEAVY. A
heavy bow digs in after initial plane is reached causing more drag, poor steerage,
poor performance, poor control especially in a following sea. Don't run this way.

What you want is a BALANCED BOAT**. A balanced boat should plane helped with
engine trim in and trim tabs down then run with the bow elevated some 4 - 8
degrees.

Aye.

*Messing around on a boat takes up a lot of time.

**Balance by placing heavier moveable items in the bow and midship area both on
port and starboard sides to offset a heavy stern. Look at the waterline in the slip.
It should be quite level.
 
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