Going Forward on a C Dory

C

Come Along

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The outside deck on a C Dory 22 is quite narrow. To one used to a full walk-around it seems a little like walking rock ledge in Grand Canyon particularly with a sea running. Is there a trick to going forward on this side deck or does everyone go through the forward cabin and handle docking and anchoring gear through the forward hatch? Come Along (C Dory Wanna Be)
 
You're right.
But it's kind of like riding a two wheel bike. Ay first you wonder how can I ever do this :embarrased
and later it's what's the problem? :lol:
Procedure: It's two steps up from the cockpit and hold on tight to the rails :thup
 
I would tell you how easy it is to go forward, but it's generally Joan who does that on our boat. :wink: Kidding aside, the hand rails are well placed and the non-skid is aggressive. We have not gone to the bow through our forward hatch, and have been up there in some interesting conditions. You will find that you lean in towards the cabin and go hand over hand with the railing. Once you've done it a time or twelve, it's less of a concern.

Best wishes,
Jim B.

Not sure if the 25 has any more width there than the 22.
 
Forget all that "one hand for the boat" stuff. Keep both of them on the handrail and you'll be fine. If the step on to the foredeck is a bit long, consider another hand hold on the cabin eyebrow. The ones on the aft cabin wall look like they would work up there. CDory should be able to send you a couple.

Steve
 
I always went forward as my wife is a little unstable. When going into a lock with a big wind on the bow I had to leave the helm a hustle forward to grab a line. With the placement of the hand rails and the nonskid it was never a problem.
 
Docking--we reach out the cabin window and put a line around a cleat or piling. Anchor--we use the windlass: power up and down. You do have to go foreward to pull the pin on the anchor. If you don't have a windlass, then you do have to go foreward.



I added two extra handles on each side on the C Dory 25. They are made by AFI and available at West Marine, Defender, Boat XX etc. C_Dory_25_AC_and_railing_005.jpg
Lift_on_the_Bayou.sized.jpg

The second photo shows the forward hand rails on the deck house of the Tom Cat.
 
Aboard Naknek (sold in May 2008) I maintained dock lines fixed forward and aft both to port and starboard. The lines led to jam cleats situated on the gunnel where we customarily got on or off the boat.

Having fixed lines on both sides worked well for docking, kept all lines handy, neat, and really reduced the need to go forward. It also made singlehanded cruising much easier.

Add a windlass, and there was far less need to go forward (and virtually never in bad sea conditions).

Best,
Casey
(vice) C-Dory Naknek
The Villages, FL
Lake Montezuma, AZ
 
teflonmom":310sz73f said:
I always went forward as my wife is a little unstable.
Click to expand...

Fred, I can't resist.... My wife is unstable too, what's that got to do with it :?: Seems to me, you were the one that lost your glasses at Langford when you fell off the pier :roll: :lol: :lol:

I shouldn't talk though, I've fallen in 2X this year at my pier. Fortunately I don't wear glasses anymore (except to read) and I didn't have anything in my pockets. Sally won't let me go down there alone anymore.

Warm regards to you both and Molly, we miss you! Keep posting!!

Charlie
 
thataway":wo0jmxyd said:
Docking--we reach out the cabin window and put a line around a cleat or piling. Anchor--we use the windlass: power up and down. You do have to go foreward to pull the pin on the anchor. If you don't have a windlass, then you do have to go foreward.
Click to expand...

Bob, I know you don't agree with this philosophy, but for the benefit of the other members, I am going to mention the EZ Anchor Puller Windlass which I am having installed on my Tom Cat. One of the stated advantages of this worm-drive unit (uses a Ramsey winch) is that you do not have to go forward -- ever.

Warren
 
Bob Austin/thataway makes a point which I had overlooked, having taken it for granted. I'd like to emphasize it.

We have the forward dock lines permanently cleated around the mooring cleat and run aft along the side of the cockpit, than tied off to the grab rails. When we dock, one of us, goes to the cockpit, undoes the proper forward dock line, grabs an aft dock line, and steps on the dock. Never need to go forward. Just as Bob says. My addition is the following picture:

03_VAC_PICTURES_071.sized.jpg



This show the port dock line and how it's tied off to the cockpit grab rail. For a 25' boat, it's 23' long so it can't get wrapped around the propeller. I assume it would be shorter for a 22.

We were taught this technique by Scott Mathews, at the factory (then,) and it's worked well for us.

Boris [/url]
 
We too like the permanent lines and also tie them off to the cockpit grab rail. To aid user friendliness I tied a small Monkey Fist, built stainless ferrules and assembled all this into a very attractive package at the end of each line.
Mike
 
Warren, I don't disagree at all with the drum windlass. In fact I suggested that Earl Hinz include this in his excellent book on anchoring. I just don't like to take up that room on the fordeck--and that is a very personal decision.

One suggestion I might make, is to use flat tubular nylon as the "line" you bring from the bow aft to the cockpit. The reason is that if you step on rope (say you do have to go foreward) there is a good chance of rolling your foot, spraining an ankle, or slipping. The flat nylon is less likely to cause you to roll the ankle.

We rarely run lines aft for docking.- Marie handles the middle / stern from the cockpit and I handle the breast line/spring lines from the side window--and we try and dock starboard side too if possiable.
 
The below is a link to Sea Angel's forward and aft line setup. It sure is a
lot safer than crawling forward in a hurry.

This is my first try at inserting stuff; hope it works.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

As to hand holds..

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

If I get around to adding any others, I will add them forward on the roof top. They presently do give me a place to tie in the fenders from within the cabin as they are. I like what THATAWAY has done with his.

Art
 
One more thought, and then I'll let it go.

There's a lot of discussion on docking, and a few mentions on having a windlass so that you don't have to go forward. If you have a windlass, you can power down, and set the anchor from the cockpit: BUT THEN you have to go forward to tie off the anchor rode to the mooring cleat. Not doing this leads to trouble with the windlass, as thoroughly discussed in the Sprint 600 topic. Guaranteed, it's also hold true for the 700, or any other windlass.

Also as Bob says, when you go forward, watch that you don't step on a dock line or other rope, as your foot will slip. With the narrow side decks on a C-Dory and running dock lines aft, you will learn to be careful.

Boris
 
I like the idea of the cam cleats to hold forward lines (others have done this as well) and am planning to put them on the Lori Ann. I was thinking of mounting the line storage cleats on the cabin side, above the cam cleats (not sure if the ergonomics will work out, though.) Any comments on storing the lines outside of the cockpit?

With regard to the shockcord line hangers -- I have not been able to find these at Worst Marine or Fisheries Supply. Can you provide the manufacturer & product name? Where did you buy them? Also, are the shockcords replaceable?

Thanks,
Warren
 
Maybe it's from years of sailing, but when we dock, Joan goes forward. We generally hang a large round fender from the bow cleat that runs back behind the bow rail. I will (again, generally) put the bow on the dock at an angle against the round fender. Joan can step off with dock line in hand, take a wrap, and we are under control. When singlehanding, I use a line run fore and aft, and try to work it from the helm window.

As Boris mentioned, when anchoring someone still has to go forward to cleat off the anchor line. Also when anchoring/weighing, Joan is usually on the bow to direct me. We use hand signals.

I think Dr. Bob's additional rail at the eyebrow is a good idea.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Hi to all,

Charlie was wrong about me loosing my glasses. I did not fall off the dock at Langford Bay. Must have been another Fred.

I will admit to being a little less stable at Langford Bay from drinking too much Red Cat, but that was Terry's fault.

The C-DORY we sold is living happily in New York it is berthed at the Macadon Marina and Jim, the new owner is taking very good care of her. He may even post something on this site as soon as he stops polishing his new C-Dory.

Fred, Pat, and Mr. Grey(the cat)
 
teflonmom":dyu1sk91 said:
Hi to all,

Charlie was wrong about me loosing my glasses. I did not fall off the dock at Langford Bay. Must have been another Fred.


Fred, Pat, and Mr. Grey(the cat)
Click to expand...

Fred, I apologize....Indeed, it must have been someone else. Know it wasn't me for a change, it usually is though. I just went back and looked at some of our attendance lists for Langford and remember (now) that it was Roger from the FranSea that took the plunge....My bad Fred, sorry :oops: again.

Charlie
 
Having spent many decades single handling, I have "after bow spring lines" (as Boris shows) at the ready always. Even though others frequently go with me, this avoids surprises and last minute hollering.

As mentioned you have to be careful that these lines are either tied tightly enough so as to not rest on the side step ledge, or loosely enough to drape below that walkway.

Another key ingredient to saftety in going forward is to wear VERY GOOD, HIGH QUALITY, DECK SHOES - specifically designed for walking on wet, moving decks. I have tried even medium priced deck shoes that turn into water skis on a bounding, wet deck. Also, periodically wash the soles with Dawn detergent or an organic solvent to make them stickier.

If you are genuinley worried about it and must go forward or lean overboard in rough water, get a safety line to run fore and aft and the special harness/life jacket with the D ring and coiled lanyard to clip onto the safety line. Keep your feet parallel to the long axis of the gunwale, don't try to tippy toe. Use both hands, and plan on one foot slipping as you make way forward. As mentioned, lean hard against the cabin top - I try to keep the cabin roof edge in my armpit, resting heavily upon the upper arm, so very little weight on the feet and very little risk if a slip comes.

If you are carrying things fore and aft, rest them on the cabin top and keep a lanyard on them so you are not tempted to try to grab them if they slide loose and you can just tug them along as you move without have to hold onto them or balance holding them.

A local 44 year old "hero" around here was in the process of saving some kids who were stuck on a dam with their Seyvelor raft during a flood lost his glasses and was killed when he reached down to grab them, even though he had two safety lines being manned on the shore. He reached down to grab the falling glasses, slipped, hit his head and drowned before they could pull him ashore.

Woody, an old, retired Merchant Marineman who taught me much about boats and the sea always said, "Always put a lanyard on anything you care about." So, as I lost valuable items overboard here and there, he'd remark, "'Guess you didn't care much about that..."

And that goes for ppl too.... life jackets, safety lines in rough seas, etc.

Prepare in advance and plan for slipping, dropping and mishaps. If you wear glasses, even only sunshades, keep the floating headstaps on them. That quick reflex to reach down and grab them could wind you up in the drink.


John
 
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