honda 40 16 cruisers

J

jennykatz

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C Dory Year
2006
C Dory Model
23 Venture
Vessel Name
Little Treasurer
On the c-16 where is the correct position of engine mounting for a honda 40hp. ?( if someone can use my photo album and show sweet 16 thanks )what have other 16 owners done? I have my honda 40 as far down as possible and it seems at 3500-4500rpm the engine lower unit does not seem to be picking up enough water . we have put in new water pump and have cleaned out the whole engine . Does this engine need to be placed on a jack plate to lower engine so it can pick up water ?

how does one place pictures in album to here??
 
Jim_phone_207.sized.jpg

Here is one of the pics in your album. I have the Honda 50 (same configuration) and they both look about the same to me as to mounting.

Here is mine:new_16_w_curtain_005.sized.jpg
 
I still do not know how to do this (pictures)? when the c16 is running does the engine get enough water at 4000rpm how does one get to keep lower unit from going up to far .BTW I have run the engine with those wings and without still same problem overheat at speed .Also have run engine with thermostat and without same results( I use a IR gun to determine heat buildup number 1 cylinder overheat ) Im afraid I must put on jack plate and sink engine down another 3 inches or so? what is the conceses for the c-16 ownwers .The engine runs great with water ears on and will not overheat only at speed when boat is traveling over 3500rpm it seems lower unit pick up is not doing it job I have put in new water pump ,new rings and piston , synthetic oil , head gasket , and all new gaskets for eng. and new water pickup plates . what have we missed ??
 
If the cavitation plate is just below the water during operation, the motor has the right placement. On my bayliner the cavitation plate is a tiny bit above the water line and it is fine, but it has a tendency to cavitate under extreme manuevers while pulling skiers or tubers. Yours looks fine to me from the pictures.

I find it incredible odd that the whole motor stays cool except #1. I would be looking at a overly lean condition on that cylinder, and since you just had it rebuilt, I would be thinking about how it was rebuilt. It is possible that #1 is having a problem due to a number of things: improper machining, wrong piston or incorrectly installed, incorrect rings, lack of lubrication, and lots of others.

I have rebuilt tons of engines; it doesn't take much to screw up a rebuild......
 
I would agree with you except this engine was overheating before also . We took it apart to make sure all the passageways were clear no salt . when we had it apart we put in piston number 2 and rings (honda parts ) for all three cylinders . when it was apart we checked the oil pump . We also found a blown head gasket and head was out by 200,000 of an inch we had the head taken to machine shop and shaved down and all new gaskets put in .

The mystery is it runs great at the shop and when we go for a ride anything over 3500rpm -4500rpm the overheat comes on and I use the IR gun and it is overheating . Is it a water pickup problem , does engine needs to be on a jack plate or sell the engine for parts and repower
 
Here is how I attach a picture to a post. First it has to be in a photo album on the website. Go to the picture, enlage it unless you want to use the thumbnail size, right click on it and click properties. Copy the address onto your clipboard. Now go back to your post and click on Img then paste the address and click Img again. You can use Preview to make sure it worked.

It would look like this:
Into_PL_Sound.sized.jgp


I changed the .jpg at the end to jgp so it would stay in the string form.
 
Anna Leigh":3jfrzpl7 said:
Here is how I attach a picture to a post. First it has to be in a photo album on the website.
Click to expand...

I'm no expert, but, in my experience it does not have "to be in a photo album on the website". Any picture whose 'properties/address' ends in 'jpg' can be copied and pasted directly into a posting. Here's a picture from a random Google of 'Honda BF40'

hondabf40_engine.jpg
 
So if engine is on the boat the right way then its a water pickup problem .
If water pump is new thermostat new and works we flushed from top to bottom and from bottom to top of engine (through thermostat hole ) what kind of problem can there be?

What is the engine worth for looking at e-bay parts seem very expensive powerhead, lower unit ,cowling ,carbs prop, trim tilt etc etc

Maybe just sell off engine and repower for 5k -6k
 
jennykatz":2zndn7kq said:
So if engine is on the boat the right way then its a water pickup problem .
If water pump is new thermostat new and works we flushed from top to bottom and from bottom to top of engine (through thermostat hole ) what kind of problem can there be?

What is the engine worth for looking at e-bay parts seem very expensive powerhead, lower unit ,cowling ,carbs prop, trim tilt etc etc

Maybe just sell off engine and repower for 5k -6k
Click to expand...

I would pull the lower unit off again and make sure everthing is good to go. I hate to see you part it out. Maybe the pickup tube is cracked, the waterpump housing is leaking, or who knows....I hate these mysteries....I hope you find it.
 
We made sure the housing was good never checked pickup tube im at the end of my ropes
 
What does the pee stream look like at all different speeds? If the pee stream is really shooting, then adequate cooling water and pumping isn't the problem. Blockage to that one cylinder simply sounds improbable. Is it possible that even though number one is hotter than the others that your temperature pickup is out of whack? In other words how much hotter is number one? How hot are the other cylinders. On my Suzkies, it is hard to get a feel for which cylinders are at which temp. But, I can put my hand on the crankcase and it is not uncomfortable to the touch after a high speed run. Mysteries. I would think a shop with any competence should be able to get to the bottom of this. I think that water pickup issues for cooling woud be proven or dissproven easily by watching the pee stream.

I assume Hondas do "pee?"
 
Yes Honda's pee the faster the idle the stronger the pee . I use a IR heat gun to find out the temp. It still seems like its blockage or who knowst some sort of mystery honda problems

It seems honda's have more salt water problems then any other mfg . I have never had a overheat problem with any other mfg.I've owned every other outboard even force which i would love to own now.
 
Marty is correct, it does not matter where the image is on the net - you just display the image and (on a Mac) right click and select "Copy image URL." Then just paste the image URL into you post and surround it with the image tags, which are the three letters img in brackets, with a forward slash in the closing tag. Clear as mud?

macbookpro.jpg

Like David, I changed the file extension so you can see the image URL from another site:

macbookpro.jgp
 
If the pee stream is good, then you have reasonably good cooling. So can one cylinder be that coolant blocked? I doubt it. What were the temps you saw cylinder to cylinder? Don't discount a problem in the temp sense electronics being wrong. If you are seeing 170 degrees on a couple cylinders and 190 on a third, then you are probably only seeing the difference in your IR temp probe aim point. The paint, the finish of the paint, the angle of the IR beam look etc. all affect pretty dramatically the IR temp readings. I've used the IR temp readers a lot and you have to be very very careful to make sure you are comparing apples and apples because of possible differences in surfaces.

For example, I was helping a friend identify a cylinder running lean on his airplane engine. The good cylinders were 150 degrees average, but varied from 135 to 170. (all attributable to the aim point). The bad cylinder was at 200.

Just a not of caution about using the IR temp readers. Good luck.
 
Not familiar with Honda engines but I am thinking like Potter Water. You should be able to catch the pee water in a cup with one hand and use the IRT with the other. Then have someone cruise up thru the higher RPM. You should notice a big increase in water temp if it is truly running hot. Maybe even steam out the vent hole below the power head. In my experience it should go from luke warm to too hot for your finger. It sounds like you have good coolant flow so I would verify a few other things. I think it runs good on the muffs because there is no real load on the engine.

Check that compression is still good.

Ignition advances as it should. I once owned a boat where the wrong sized bolt was installed in the ignition advance rod. It allowed just a slight amount of play in the linkage. Always ran great on the muffs. Two hour drive to the lake and it would either not start or run like crap. Back home on the muffs, ran great. Can't tell you how long it took to find that problem. If you bought the boat used you have to check every detail. No telling what someone else has changed.

Spark plugs and ignition, wires not breaking down at higher rpm.

Carbs are synchronized.

Check for air leaks at carb to engine intake mount and intake manifold. Use carb cleaner and spray these areas with engine running and listen for rpm increase.

I would also pull all carbs apart and verify all jets are the correct size for that engine and not damaged by cleaning with wire. Ensure all o-rings are installed as required. (compare to online diagram) And all appear to not be obstructed. It is easy to concentrate on the fuel path of a carb but all the tiny air vents are equally important to the overall operation. That is why I prefer to use an ultrasonic cleaner. Disassembly the whole carb and drop the whole thing in. I use plain water and a few drops of Dawn dishwashing soap. No harmful cleaners required. It cleans all passages. Even the ones you can't see.
 
We took out sweet 16 today and we raised the engine one notch (1 in) and keep the engine tucked in all the way and with that the engine does not overheat ? So maybe all is well I still think it's goofy why the engine placement is so important on this boat compared to other c-dory's 22,23 .
It seems when you trim out the engine she does not get enough water, it sucks in air . We ran for over an hour and no overheat so we will try it again today and make sure all is well .
Maybe we found the mystery( engine placement ) . I'm thinking about putting on doel fin instead of that wing thing on there .?
 
Well maybe we found the mystery we put the engine up one notch (1in) and I put a doelfin type of fin on it Wow what a difference it makes in ride and no more overheat ? So I guess its water placement or no air sucking in .that was the problem

The engine revs to 5800rpm which I guess is normal for a 40 honda .I think the 40 and 50 hp honda are the same displacement engines 48 cu in .The 40 hp seems just right for this size boat . The boat behaves so differently with the Doelfin its amazing .I will put in album this week . mystery solved Jim

Thanks again for all the help finding the mysteries of life and c-dory's
 
Doel fin style hydrofoil helps the water flow and keeps boat from being to stern heavy
DSC00013.sized.jpg
 
For $21 best investment ever
 
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