Honda EU2000i and Vector compact VCD 12k/1 airconditioner

M

mccml

New member
I have a Marine Air systems vector compact VCD 12k/1 airconditioner/heat that was factory installed in my CD 25. I recently bought a Honda EU200i generator. I have included a picture of the label on top of the unit. Could anyone tell me from the information in the picture if the Honda EU2000i generator will run the airconditioner?
The picture is a little blurred, but I think you can make out the numbers.

Thanks for your help,

Mark

2013_01_26_15_22_15b.sized.jpg
 
Well, for one thing there is nothing on that label that say "amps"; However I'd assume that the "fla cool" are amps. Unless someone else knows better.

So, since amps X volts = watts, or 11 X 125 = 1400 watts, and the Honda 2000 should be good for ~1600 watts (the 2000 is Hondas over rating), it sounds like everything should work. With modern air conditioners the starting surge in minimized. The one we used on Journey On didn't appear to have any starting surge.

Try it, the worst thing that happens is that the over-current sensor on the Honda shuts down the power. This has happened on my Honda 1000 many times and nothing gets hurt. Nothing will blow up.

Boris
 
I think you are on the hairy edge of making it with the 2000i. Only way to know for sure will be to fire it up. The problem is that these AC units hardly ever have information on start up current which can often double, for a few seconds, the running current. (The fusing is the information-devil in the details). Very roughly speaking, fusing is rated at twice the expected load, so based upon the fusing you may still be able to operate as the fusing would expect to see no more than 12 start up amps. However, if you look at the fusing upper limit of 40 amps, then maybe you could see start up loads of 20 amps under worst case conditions, and the 2000i won't be happy. My view is that if you are operating the air conditioner in high ambient heat, you may not be able to get the thing started with your gen.

Please post how it works when you've had a chance to fire it up.
 
There is a special soft starter by domestic which will allow that Honda to run the AC unit. Otherwise it will not be able to start it. I have to disagree with Boris--the start up on that unit will be 2x to 3x of the running amps. Dometic "Smart Start" is a computer system which goes on the starting unit/(capacitors) of the AC unit. It should allow the unit to start on the EU 2000i. The usual capacitors will not do the job--just this $375 to $450 item (depends on where you buy it).

Try the Honda first--it will most likely trip the breaker or stall out--but if it doesn't then you are good to go. If it does not work, then buy the Smart start and it should work.
 
I'm with Boris. I think the Honda EU 2000 puts out around 17 amps. Full load amps at 10 amps I would think it would handle it. I think our air condtioner is about 9500 BTU's and our our EU 2000i can run it.
D.D.
 
Mark -
I have just uploaded a copy of Sea Angel's Operation Manual into my documentation folder for you to look at. It should have all the necessary parameters to help you.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

For what it is worth, I have run this unit on shore power with a 15A service using a 50ft, 16AWG extention cord, while using cabin lights and charger without any problems. It does not answer the question about the 2000i auxgen set, but I hope there will be some experienced answer to give a firm answer. I, too, have wondered if this would work before I made the $$$$ jump.

Art
 
Thanks Art for the manual. I will let everyone know how I make out with the Honda eu2000 and my air-conditioner this summer.

Mark
 
The latest Boat-US advice is to never use a gas generator on a boat. they're too dangerous electrically and give off carbon monoxide.

(BoatUS magazine, Feb, 2013, pg 74, Ask the Experts)

That's certainly the safest advice one can give, nobody will sue you. Of course, it makes extended cruising impractical, but that's not their problem.

Boris
 
Not that I don't think the folks from Boat US are experts but my engine gives off carbon monoxide. I can tell folks from my experience leave your back door open, travel at trawler non displacement speeds with the wind on your back your carbon monoxide alarm should go off or might go off even though you don't have a generator on board. Our boat has a full transom and a motor well where our generator sits. I think with the door closed and windows closed I don't see/haven't seen a problem. Having a carbon monoxide detector is key. I know ours works, our cabin seems to be sealed fairly tight with the door closed. Usually we would not be using the generator unless we were on the hook. Thus the boat would face into the wind making it a little less likely to a be a problem. As far as the electricity part goes our generator gets plugged into our shore power outlet with a heavy duty cord designed for marine use. I agree there is danger everywhere. Some people should not own boats let alone generators. All the above is my opinion,I'm not giving advise.
D.D.
 
I don't have a copy of the magazine (nor do I have a generator), but I'm interested in what the differences are between the gasoline generator (presuming one runs it in the splashwell) and the outboard engines we all have. I presume there must be some differences that make something like a Honda EU1000 get the dangerous rating from Boat U.S.? Are they problems that are only problems if one is careless in operation or has faulty wiring? Or are they inherent issues that would apply to the prudent mariner (beyond any inherent hazards of any gasoline engine)?

Curious, since I might consider a Honda EU1000 some day.

Sunbeam
 
Since this is kind of a Honda EU2000 thread,
We just returned from a 2 week snow skiing trip in Colorado.
Used the EU2000 with our Pickup camper to run 1600 watts of resistance electric heat at altitudes up to 11,000 feet with no problems. There is no extra starting load with resistance heat. Gas consumption seemed a little higher but the genset started easily and ran well at those altitudes.
Started it cold at 5degrees F. on just a few pulls. This unit is several years old with a couple of hurricanes in its logbooks. The last big hurricane it ran for 10 days straight with only shutdowns for refueling and an oil change. Still using the original spark plug.
We use an EU 1000 on the boat however. The EU 1000 does the small AC or Microwave fine. It is mounted on a bracket in the splashwell. I welded a 2" extension to the exhaust that directs the flow down and away from the splashwell area. We have never had our carbon monoxide detector in the bunk go off due to the generator.
 
Will-C":1jrpkyf6 said:
I'm with Boris. I think the Honda EU 2000 puts out around 17 amps. Full load amps at 10 amps I would think it would handle it. I think our air condtioner is about 9500 BTU's and our our EU 2000i can run it.
D.D.
Click to expand...

Yes the Honda will run a 9500 BTU AC-and I have done it for many hours. But when you get up to 12,000 BTU, plus water pump, since it is a built in unit, there is going to be about 30% more start up load, and I doubt that the Honda 2000 will handle that without some special starting items, such as the "Smart start"--which is more than just a capacitor kit.
 
I just based my opinion based what I saw here. watts divided by voltage = amps. So 2000 divided by 115 volts equals about 17.3 amps the plate shows FLA amps at 10.9 in the cooling mode. if you multiply 10.9 times 1.3 = 14.17 . There is the other thirty percent for start up. So maybe it won't but unless the start up amps exceed the amperage output of the Honda EU 2000 it ought do it. Then if thats not the case he's got get a smart start setup.
D.D.
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that the honda 2000 did run my air conditioning unit. It was great to cool the boat on the hook when it was hot!
I even kicked it down to eco setting, and it still ran but, it did rev it up higher.
 
Great to hear the Honda E 2000i runs your AC unit. When you run on eco it is still able to spool up to full power. But it is not able to spool up fast enough to catch the surge--thus it will stall out the AC/perhaps the Generator--and not good for either. OK to run, as long as it does not need to restart. Is there enough risk for damage to either unit vs the gas savings which is minimal. I always ran our EU 2000 for the 9500 BTU Polar Cub or the 1000 for the "Artic King 5000" at non eco mode because of this danger.

It would be interesting to put a volt meter on the circuit when you are starting it, to see how much the voltage drops. But you know it is starting it, so that is good....If the voltage drop is too low, I probably would consider a larger generator--such as the Yamaha 2400.

As to the Boat US article about no gas generators: A built in gas generator is also responsible for a number of deaths. The key is being sure that no exhaust acumualates in the boat, and that you have CO detectors! If these go off--shut down. Put the generator on the swim step--put a milk crate lashed on the step, lash the generator to the crate, Be sure that the exhaust is down wind of the boat.
 
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