How long of screws for interior?

F

Finally2

Member
So I have tried hanging the gear hammocks with 3m materials inside the berth to store life jackets and the such. Inside my berth is textured so they don’t stick well. This is my first fiberglass boat so I’m wondering for the berth and the cockpit how deep/long are the screws your guys are placing? For the snaps and other screws alike?

Also I have read on here about over drilling and filling with epoxy then redrilling. That is not necessary for inside such as cockpit and berth just outside in the hull or am I reading it wrong

New member and in love with my 22’ cruiser. All help appreciated!
 
Depends on where you are planning on inserting the screws. The horizontal overhead surfaces (i.e. the deck) are thicker than the vertical surfaces (hull sides and trunk).

There is also some variability depending on what year boat you have. I have put in 3/8" #8 screws into the overhead of the berth without penetrating to the outside. For the sides and the trunk, I epoxy teak blocks to the fiberglass where I want to put screws.

To attach the wood blocks, the interior surface needs to be sanded to get the surface splatter finish off and the underlying FG roughed up. I use West system epoxy to attach the wood blocks to the bare spot.
 
Thank you I will try epoxy teak against the sides. As far as installing snaps in the cabin what would you suggest? I’m thinking of installing curtains. I may try the 3m Velcro first but snaps seem to be all over the boat so they seem pretty safe just not sure at what length of the screws would be too much
 
For snaps, just get the same size as the window frame screw and remove the window frame screw and put in the snap one.... easy and cheap--works very well, and this is the way factory does it.

You don't have to use teak. Birch or other hardwood will work and it has less oils and bonds better. Then stain to look like teak. Bevel or round the edges.

Hint. I use hot glue to. hold the block I place until the epoxy goes off.

Some overheads are only 1/4" thick--and it may vary year to year. You don't want to drill thru 1/4" and have the screw come out on the other Side!

Most of the "roof" of the V berth cabin is cored, so should be at least 3/4" thick.. I have also unscrewed the nuts on pulpit legs and put a metal (rubber lined) clip on that to hold hammock. I have also install sailboat mesh "sheet" bags to hold items. The newer 25's have a shelf on each side.
 
Finally2":fzai09w0 said:
Thank you I will try epoxy teak against the sides. As far as installing snaps in the cabin what would you suggest? I’m thinking of installing curtains. I may try the 3m Velcro first but snaps seem to be all over the boat so they seem pretty safe just not sure at what length of the screws would be too much
Click to expand...

Sailrite sells a wide variety of snaps and the tools to install them. You're going to use more than you think, so buy plenty.
 
I really don't like putting holes anywhere in my boat, if I can avoid it. I have had great luck with #M Command Strips, (Window covers), for some things, and with the double sided Gorilla tape, (MOB+ hub mount) for many more. That stuff really sticks. Have had some things stuck down with that for several years.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_Jan_From_Inside_the_Electronics.thumb.jpg
 
hardee":37cqva84 said:
I really don't like putting holes anywhere in my boat, if I can avoid it. I have had great luck with #M Command Strips, (Window covers), for some things, and with the double sided Gorilla tape, (MOB+ hub mount) for many more. That stuff really sticks. Have had some things stuck down with that for several years.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_Jan_From_Inside_the_Electronics.thumb.jpg
Click to expand...

That should be 3M Command strips. I use them with the clear, small hooks and use the expandable car window shades for curtains. Can put up silver for heat reflectivity, or black for darkening the cabin. Up north that helps when the sun does not set until nearly 2300.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

January_2010_476.thumb.jpg
 
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