Hull extension

Thanks everyone for the votes of confidence. I'm sure excited but Joe is right, this idea may yet turn out to be a turd. A nice looking turd though.

Tom and Greg, I'll let you know when I'm getting close and we'll start looking for a good day.

Well I can't sit here on this site all day, I've got a boat to work on.

Bill
 
Billy-

I'm not saying your extension is a turd at all! I'm just overly cautious about overall hull changes like th is because there are so many things to understand and try to anticipate.

And though I talk a good line sometimes, I'm no trained naval archetect either.

Actually I like experimentation and to devise new things. Stimulates the imagination and is one of the most important ways progress is made.

I just don't have the nerve to be the first to do so to the stern of my boat after messing with sailboats for 30 years.

Good Luck--I'm on your side--just not sticking my chicken neck out to far!!!

Joe.
 
Joe,
The turd reference was mine and I was forewarning that it could turn out that way. What I was suggesting was if anyone else was contemplating this type of thing, that they take your advice and wait just a little longer. I should have some feedback for you all in a short while and it might pay to wait, after all, I'm not an archetect either, more of an imagineer.
I'll let you all know either way how this goes.

Bill
 
Bill - the imagineers are the ones that occasionally come up with an idea that enhances or makes something better and it helps the rest of us.

Roger – why not post pictures of your changes in progress. Somebody here may have an idea of improving it. I know when I get all my design work done, I will post it here for feedback before I start. I have already made changes to my design, from input I’ve had from the C-Brats and the factory.
 
Billy, Mark it down in your notes that prior to launching for sea trials, I for one believe you will find a dramatic improvement in handling and stability with your design. Also....remember "Turds" float!

Be sure to change your profile to show...your new "25" .
 
Bill, I for one am probably just about as eager as you are to see the results of the sea trial. The guy that did yours sure does pretty work. The only difference that I see between your idea and mine is that I planned on sloping the bottom up a few degrees as it goes aft. I plan on taking an angle measurement when the boat is on plane and sloping the bottom a couple of degrees more than that. I don't have the weight issues that you have and figured that I'd minimize drag that way. Also since I'm using corecell foam and fiberglass I thought that I would make the bottom extra thick toward the back in case I have to grind a bit more taper into it after I see how it works. Different needs = different designs. It will be fun to see the end results.
Norm
 
Camera's in the shop right now and no time to post pictures since I'm busy working on it anyway. Will also have a major change in the propulsion system.... Will post pictures in about a week.
 
This is a neat project to watch, Bill. It looks great, and I'm betting it's going to do what you want. Very nice work.

Dr. Roger - Don"t you think your stern is big enough already? :moon
 
Norm- your project sounds great and very light. Some things I've learned: I didn't consider moving my trim tabs outboard at all and I could have gotten an additional 6" of new hull width by doing that. That would have given me slightly more displacement but that doesn't sound like what you're after. Maybe someone else will need that tidbit.
I also didn't measure the actual amount of room I'd need when the engine is in full up tilt. I'm hoping 18" is enough but others can avoid my mistake.
I hadn't originally planned on the hatch in the swim step but it needed to be there for glassing and of course for getting at the back end of engine mounting bolts. I'll have to run a grounding strap thru the new hull space to get to the mounting bolts.
Also, my addition ended up with a slightly down slope. It wasn't supposed to, and I didn't notice it until I got home, but it's there. That will give me a permanent bow down trim. Trying to find the bright side of this, it may help to offset the leverage of extending the motors back, I don't know. Either way, short of getting out the chainsaw, there's nothing to be done about it now.
Dan- I think the higher transom may be the part I like best. It may not be necessary, but I like the additional security.
Mike- Your confidence is noted, appreciated and recorded. Thanks.
Roger- I'm anxious to see what you're up to.

Bill
 
I think I know what that sneaky Roger the Dodger is up to on the sly.

He's adding one of those bolt-on power units/transom additions we talked about last year with the 350 cu. in. V-8 and jet drive.

Should be able to park and land it like a Harrier jet once he gets the hang of controlling it.

Joe.
 
"What's all that white stuff all over on the ground???" -Joe

"Hard water, and filters don't seem to work. Some clown came up with a solar filter but it's temporary, any ideas?" -Bill

We found the answer!!!

Al (Moose) and I were discussing an idea that he put to use today where you can use a variable resistor to control the speed of a DC fan. I asked him how many Ohms the controling variable resistor was, and I got the following answer:

"Ohm, what's an Ohm? LOL"

So I said "Ohm is a mantra you say endlessly during the winter and sooner or later it makes all the ice and snow disappear so you can go boating. Works every time."
 
Up early to work on the transom/propulsion mods. Anyone know if it's possible to raise the rollers on the trailer a bit or perhaps change out to bigger wheels? Think I might need to get the boat father off the ground for trailering. PICS in a few days...
 
Roger-

Sounds "Ohminous" !

Here are the things that I know can be done:

Raising the rollers may be a distinct possibility. Check the supports under the rollers to see how much adjustment is left on the sliding arrangements with slots. You will have to have room to raise them all somewhat uniformly while elevatiang the rear. You could also get new supports with a longer or greater adjustment range.

Use bigger (taller tires) for a small gain, will also help carry more weight.

Get larger rims, from 14 to 15 to 16.5 rims- bolt pattern has to match, but for the larger sizes tire/wheel shops can come up with them. This will be your easiest and cheapest alternative, except for the rollers.

You can change axles, but they won't raise your ride height in themselves, though, since they're going to be on the same centered spot under the frame. However, a different axle could give you a different bolt pattern for the wheels in a larger size, though.

You could block the frame up above the axels further with some sort of block kit used to jack up (lift) pickups, but the trailer boys probably would't recommend it. Might be hard to keep the axle(s) in alignment with the trailer frame (?)

If you have a single axle, going tandem would help you carry the wieght, however, and taller wheels could give you the height. If you're adding a lot of weight on a single, a tandem (second) axle and larger wheels would be the way to go. Dual axles would also help bottoming out problems, which are the ultimate clearance issues.

You could also add a leaf or two to the trailer to stiffen things up and raise the clearance. Adding shocks could also help to raise bottoming out clearance, depending on how they act (double or single). Air assisted shocks could also be used to increase clearance and handle more load.

Perhaps a suspension shop could add air bags between your axles and frame to raise the ride height and stiffen up the ride.

If you have fixed tangs, trailer shop could also increase the size of the traingular tangs that the ends of the leaf springs ride in, if major surgery is advised. Many trailers, however, having sliding U-bolt arrangements to connect the leaf springs with the frames to allow fore-aft adjustments.

Lots of stuff could be done, depending on the creativity and knowledge of the person helping you.

You may have to shift the axle(s) back on the trailer in any event to keep the boat balanced on the trailer and the tongue weight corrected.

If you have torsion axles or coil springs, some of these things will work, some will not.

Back to "Square 1" and sort out!

Sounds like fun!

Hope this helps, and is all the the best of my knowledge,

Joe.
 
Roger,
Maybe going to bunks would be easier. Guys are having good luck with surfacing the bunks with that white plastic cutting board mat'l. Either way, sounds like a good sized project.

Bill
 
Where are you going to test her at? I have to put some more hours on my new hull htis weekend. If you need someone to take some running shots let me know. :smile

Sark
 
Billy,

This is quite a project and a nice job! Lots of intestinal fortitude........I guess guts is the proper word. Sure hope it works out well, and if it does, there will probably be some followers.

The shop looked sorta familiar plus a major fiberglass job, so was wondering if Plaschem, in Anchortown was doing your work? Have known Floyd and Randy for many moons and know they do a lot of glass work on all types and sizes of boats.

Best of luck with the launch and test run!

Doug........still without a ride
 
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