Hull runners?

D

danbeaudoin

New member
We built a C-dory using a seperated factory hull and cabin. Does anyone have a photo of runners on the bottom of the boat? I am assuming that the factory boats have them as I am having some control problems. Any help appreciated.
Thankyou
 
I have a picture from the back of the transom and you can see this runner or reverse chine. http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

I'm sure I have some others which show that portion of the hull more clearly.

What kind of control problems are you having? To my knowledge, those runners were intended to balance the boat in areas having severe tides which leave an anchored boat grounded. Those runners tend to cause their own handling problems at slow speed when passengers move from side to side in the aft portion of the boat.

It would be helpful to be specific with regards to handling problems.

Bill
 
Thanks Bill for the photo. I must have an early hull that came with no runners and is perfectly flat on the bottom. I believe these early ones had wood runners added on. My boat takes a very wide turn. Seems to slip sideways on executing a turn for quite a distance as there is no keel effect. I need to add the runners but I want to size them right so that I don't overcorrect. Your help appreciated
 
danbeaudoin...

Since you mentioned that your hull is perfectly flat, I highly recommend leaving it the way it is. The older C-Dory was flat. A true dory will more than likely be flat. There's a reason for that. That type of dory can be launched from the beach and recovered with a tilt trailer built specifically for a flat bottom dory. That trailer has a roller the full width of the boat.

I don't know where you are located, but I suggest a trip to Cape Kiwanda on the Northern coast of Oregon. Some time ago they had a commercial dory fleet in that area. There is still a substantial number of dory owners who sport fish for salmon and rockfish during the season. If you are interested in that history, leave me a note in my mailbox with your address and I'll send you copies of what I have. Those dories are still being built in nearby Pacific City. I will be out of town for a week or so and I'll respond when I return.

Bill
 
Your photos are very helpful! It looks like the depth of your runners are about an inch. I think this will help immensely with the side slippage I am experiencing.
 
Thanx.. glad that link worked for ya. Do you have any pix of that CD project post yet? interesting!

No the runners run just a few inches (maybe 3-6) from the end of the transom. Don't want to go look, I'm pooped and ready for bed ... ARG :?
 
Gee-Jay.JPG

Here is a photo of my CD that we made from a hull and a cabin.
 
Hey cool! I recognize that classic C-D appearance .... no hid'n that from the Fox..... :D

Well I'm feelin my oats again, and I'm back with some specifics to get you on your way...

The middle runner stops short of exactly 27 inches from the transom. The side ones are only and inch from the end (transom)

So what you mean you made it...? you mean laid the glass over an existing C-D hull and cabin...?


You know I have a TON of pix and projects I have done to old RedFox I still have yet to post. I can't think pf a better easier boat to customize than an old C-Dory! Now if I could just get my hands on an old 27 .... think of the possibilities. I'd go into my own lagit' "private charter business".... Don't ever want to get rid of my old 22 classic though....

I'm glad Larry (Nancy H) brought this one to my attention, I been so wrapped up in my own site, I forget to check in here once and a while (da-ooh) :D (time)
 
Greg,

Thanks for helping out. :thup

All,

Just a general comment about keels, etc.

The propeller needs a clean smooth flow of water off the bottom of the hull. Anything that disturbs the flow( keel, transducers, thru-hull fittings, bait tank pickups) will cause turbulence and reduce the thrust or cause cavitation of the prop. This means that the boat goes slower and uses more fuel.

The hull bottom should be very smooth for three feet or so(27 inches is ok on our slower boats) in front of the prop and several inches on either side.
I spent many years working on 'go very fast' (70-80 mph) river boats and the faster you go the more important this becomes. :smile
 
Thankyou very much for the advice.
Today I cut the teak runners 1" x 1" x 10 feet and 2 others that are about 6 feet long for the sides. I am a little worried about screwing these into the bottom. I am afraid that water may get in through the screwholes and into the 1 inch plywood that is on the bottom. I am thinking that I should fill the drill holes with some sort of marine epoxy before using the screws. Any suggestions or comments appreciated?
Dan
 
For a permanent installation, consider using marine grade epoxy(Marinetex is one, it sets up hard) or 3M 5200 caulking or sealer(comes in a caulking tube, can be squeezed into the holes, this sets up to a flexible rubber like stuff).

Caution---epoxy or 5200 is permanent, non removable. I recommend a 'dry' fit up first. Drill and install the strips and screws dry, then remove and apply the sealer, and install. Don't get any of this stuff on your skin!! I use disposable latex gloves. Also 5200 will spread all over!! You need a roll of paper towels for clean up. Read all the directions on the tube first.
 
danbeaudoin":kxg2v535 said:
I am afraid that water may get in through the screwholes and into the 1 inch plywood that is on the bottom.
Click to expand...
I'll go out on a limb and guess that's not plywood - C-Dory, to my knowledge, has always used a balsa core.

Which when properly built is a good thing...plywood would be far more susceptible to water intrusion.
 
Bill,

I'll join you on that limb :wink and say that Greg, on Red Fox reported plywood in the hull bottom. He had exposed core which needed fiberglass repair.

I think the early flat bottom C-Dorys had a plywood core.

Now if Greg would reply, we could get the real story. :smile
 
I have a 1983 flat bottomed clasic and I decided to gouge out a well for a bilge pump. I can verify that it was plywood. it was a real job to clean it all out and glass over it. I also had a thru hull toilet that I took out and filled in the holes. it was plywood there also.
 
Do you think applying the 5200 or epoxy directly to the wood and pressing (blocking) it to the hull without using any screws would last any length of time? She rests in mud at low tide and I only have her in for a couple of months a year.
 
Hi,

I think that either would bond if prepped properly. The natural teak oil must be washed off of the bonding area with acetone. 5200 takes a long time to completely cure, but epoxy is much faster. You need to locate the strips so they don't move during cure. They want to slide around. One small screw at each end should locate the strips.

If properly done, the epoxy will outlast the wood. Are you using bottom paint?
 
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