Hydraulic to EoH?

Alec

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Joined
Aug 30, 2011
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Location
Northeast US
C Dory Year
2009
C Dory Model
25 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Improvise
I've got a new trailer and want to convert it from trailer brakes to Electric-over-Hydraulic (think I have the terminology right...). Is this easy? DIY? Expensive? Any known videos or how-to's out there?
-Alec
25 Cruiser "Improvise"
 
Fairly easy to do, cost about 1400 plus or minus, if you have a controller in the vehicle. No controller necessary for surge brakes. Dexter, BrakeRite and HydraStar are the accentuators and run from $ 800 to $1100 for just the controller. You need the lock out, battery and some new wiring. Most disc brakes can be converted, but some are not suitable for the higher pressure of the electric over hydraulis--and then the controller in the $400 range. Up to $2000 if you need all of the parts.

I usually run all new lines unless they are all metalic and then new wiring and new brake cylinders. Cylinders have to stand pressure of 1200 PSI +/- depending on brand of pump. Some trucks and a few SUV's have the proper wiring and control already there. My 250 Ford had all of the necessary wiring and controller, but it came with the heavy duty and 5 th wheel towing package.

I order from E Trailer and have done 3 trailers conversion. It is worth the cost in my opinion to have better control. If you tow the 25 and any C Dory above that in length (over 6800 lbs) in Canada it is obligatory--have to be able to apply the brakes from inside of the tow vehicle. Either electric drum or Electric over hydaulic is necessary for that function.
 
It is relatively easy if you are handy with working on a hydraulic brake system. First you will need two major components: a trailer brake controller and the hydraulic actuator. The actuator is the expensive part, around $850. If you go to etrailer.com they have a number of options and some descriptive videos on how to to it. You will also need a "breakaway" battery. It is relatively easy if you are handy with working on a hydraulic brake system. Hooking up the hydraulic lines is not too difficult. You will also need a seven pin connector if your trailer does not have it. The hard part is making sure all the air is removed from the lines, especially if you have two axles. Again, there are numerous YouTube videos you can look at (google "bleeding brake lines on trailers"). I did this conversion on my two axle trailer last year. The hardest part for me was wiring in the trailer brake controller since my truck did not have one. Luckily my Ridgeline had a plug wired in already but it was almost impossible to get to in under the dash. I purchased the Redarc controller from e-trailer for $200 and really like since it is proportional and lets me adjust the brake pressure between my boat trailer and my box trailer.
 
What brakes do you currently have? Surge hydraulic? All electric? Drums or disc? Stainless steel? If it's a newer trailer, I'll assume you have surge disc. As Bob and Tom said, it's not that hard to change over to EOH. It's the cost of the actuator, around $1000, and a controller if your tow vehicle doesn't already have one, $200 and up. If the tow vehicle isn't already wired with or for a controller, then it gets a little more detailed as you'll need to run the wiring. If you do this project, I'd recommend getting rid of the Surge Actuator coupler and putting on a regular coupler. That'll reduce some of the tongue weight, and clean up that area of the tongue. Colby
 
Thanks all for your replies (and quick, too!). I know we're all starting to daydream about boat season...
I'll take a harder look at this via etrailer.com soon.
-Alec
 
Just wondering, while here on the subject of brakes. Since several of us with EOH disc brakes have experienced issues with the cheaper calipers, with the rubber boots around the caliper sliding pins disentigrating, and this is for those of us that trailer long mileage, have folks with surge disc brakes experienced any problems with their calipers? I won't go off on my tirade about the advantages of all electric drum brakes, but I would suggest to anyone considering upgrading to EOH brakes, to go with the more expensive calipers and SS hardware if you are spending the money anyway. And get good brake pads also.
 
I agree, Colby. Kodiak brakes are excellent. I had to replace one Tie down Brand caliper and went with Kodiak, non stainless steel.along with their brake pads. It is much beefier than Tie down and has held up really well with numerous launches in saltwater in the Puget Sound area.
 
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