True Story
New member
Tyboo, Hope you had a nice holiday. Fooled around with rack off and on over the past four days. I bought SS 7/8" rail tubing and SS bimini tube end pieces to attach to SS bimini deck fittings that will attach to the inside of the motor well.
Well, I now have a better appreciation for why they call that space back there the "motor well" and not the "cooler well". There's lots of room back there with the engines down (75 HP main and 9.9 kicker attached directly to the transom). With the motors up though, it's a different story. I decided that I wanted to be able to raise and lower the kicker without having to remove the rack. I use the kicker when fishing and I want quick access for emergencies. To reach this end, I only have about 6" of clearance between the end of the tiller and the bulkhead. Consequently, when I set the rack down (16.25" x 37" overall dimensions), the rack overhangs the bulkhed (into the cockpit) by about 10". I was able to figure this out before I completely assembled the rack and drilled the holes as shown on your sketch. So instead, I screwed and glued 8) two pieces of 1x2 material to each side of the rack with the ends extended about two inches past the back of the rack to drill holes into. Thought this would work better geometrically.
The only problem now is that the rack is only as sound as the screw and glue job and subject to quite a bit of potential leverage (if leaned upon)resulting from the overhang. I am now thinking that I will build a new rack using 1x4 material for all sides of the rack with the side pieces extended aft about two inches as before for locating the holes. Give me a reason for buying some more of that plastic lumber. It's cool stuff. Sorry for rambling on but I thought you or others, might be interested in the latest update.
Tim
Well, I now have a better appreciation for why they call that space back there the "motor well" and not the "cooler well". There's lots of room back there with the engines down (75 HP main and 9.9 kicker attached directly to the transom). With the motors up though, it's a different story. I decided that I wanted to be able to raise and lower the kicker without having to remove the rack. I use the kicker when fishing and I want quick access for emergencies. To reach this end, I only have about 6" of clearance between the end of the tiller and the bulkhead. Consequently, when I set the rack down (16.25" x 37" overall dimensions), the rack overhangs the bulkhed (into the cockpit) by about 10". I was able to figure this out before I completely assembled the rack and drilled the holes as shown on your sketch. So instead, I screwed and glued 8) two pieces of 1x2 material to each side of the rack with the ends extended about two inches past the back of the rack to drill holes into. Thought this would work better geometrically.
The only problem now is that the rack is only as sound as the screw and glue job and subject to quite a bit of potential leverage (if leaned upon)resulting from the overhang. I am now thinking that I will build a new rack using 1x4 material for all sides of the rack with the side pieces extended aft about two inches as before for locating the holes. Give me a reason for buying some more of that plastic lumber. It's cool stuff. Sorry for rambling on but I thought you or others, might be interested in the latest update.
Tim