JamesTXSD":1fpb5pdb said:
With the time for our CD-25 to be built coming, we are trying to plan for what we will want on the boat and have it complete from the factory. We would like to have an inverter (thinking 1000w) installed to be able to use the microwave or a blender when at anchor and not have to fire up the generator. When I visited with the factory today, I was told that they prefer to not install an inverter. I kinda pushed the issue and was told that if I provided the inverter they'd see what they can do.
What have other owners who have an inverter done for install? Any brand that you'd recommend? We have plenty of experience with the use of these (with motorcoaches we've owned) and find them to be a real convenience. Thanks in advance of any guidance you can provide.
Best wishes,
Jim B.
Hey Jim,
Well, you're headed down a slippery slope! :shock: There are as many inverters out there as there are vitamin pills!
You really have to define what capability you need (microwave, cell phone charging, latop, etc); that is, how much power and for how long. And then do you want want one that integrates into the onboard shorepower system or a standalone unit? If it integrates into the AC system on the boat does it power one outlet or two? Does it transfer all 30-amps of incoming power when shorepower is plugged in or just 15 amps...or none?
Seriously, I'm not being a smart-aleck here; I do this for a living. I can take you from a "plug it into a 12-volt receptacle model" to a unit where just the 4/0 wire necessary to carry the DC load 10 feet from the inverter to the battery bank and the fittings amount to over $500. It's no wonder the factory doesn't really want to do it and why they want you to choose the inverter; there are just way too many variables.
The answers you'll get here on the Brat site probably won't help you much because different folks do different things with their systems; needing to supply power to a microwave for 15 minutes is a universe away from keeping a knife sharpener going for 2 minutes. Everyone that answers means well and they want to help but it's like asking "what car should I buy?".
So, what do you want to do with your inverter? What does it need to power and for how long? An inverter should have a battery bank that is no smaller (in amp-hours) than 20% of it's output (in watts). That is, a 1000W inverter should have a access to a minimum of 200 amp-hours of battery bank capacity. This lets you run your inverter at full power for one hour. A 200 amp-hour battery bank is the equivalent of two Group 31 deep-cycle batteries (usually about 105 amp-hours each).
In addition, an engine alternator should see no more than 3-times its output (in amps) in battery capacity (in amp-hours). In this example the alternator used to charge a 200 amp-hour battery bank should be no smaller than 66 amps. So if you're choosing the Honda BF135/150 with a 40-amp alternator a 200 amp-hour battery bank is 5 times the capacity of the alternator...not a good situation. The BF135/150 really should be limited to charging about 125 to 160 amp-hours of batterys...about two group 27 batteries. You don't really need to count the starting battery if it isn't being used to supply house power. So you could have one cranking battery and then two Group 27 house batteries (confgured as one bank). Following that recommendation then the inverter should be a max 625 watts to 800 watts depending on battery choice. Not enough to run a lot of microwaves so the choice is usually to go with the bigger inverter and be *very* careful about running the batteries too low; especially if you're not going to run the boat a lot the following day (so the engine alternator really gets the chance to charge).
The easiest way to figure draw on the DC side is just to use a factor of 10 based on AC draw; it's close enough as it also accounts for interanal losses in the inverter. So our 1000-watt inverter draws about 9 amps on the AC side and the inverter has to draw about 90 amps from the batteries. That means #6 wire (at a minumum) feeding the inverter from the batteries; in other words a 1000-watt inverter is a "hard-wired" beast (can't be plugged into a 12-volt socket). The simplest form of a 1000-watt inverter wires to the battery bank and but has its own built-in receptacles and it isn't wired into the boats AC system. As soon as you want to power the boat's existing AC receptacles with the inverter things get complicated. You then have to have a Source Selector (so that the inverter doesn't experiece "backfeed" from shorepower) and you have to decide how to power share; that is, does the inverter transfer shorepower? If so, how much? If not all, which circuits should be carried by the inverter? This often requires a sub-panel to distribute the AC load.
I'm just asking for clarification sake but are you sure you had an inverter in your coach? Or was it a converter?