"It's too hot to live"

I guess location plays a part. Last I checked, the typical body temp of humans is still 98.6º. Here in the Tropical Tip, our current water temp is 85.1º (according to NOAA); our outside air temp is 88º and the relative humidity is 76%, making for a "feels like" temperature of "the Gates of Hell." A couple ice cubes in a wash cloth would last a moment or two and the wet wash cloth would just add to the humidity. :twisted: On the bright side, the wind is out of the south at 15 to 20 mph, with a hot breeze.

Yes, it is cooler on the water... more like 3 or 4 feet just outside the Gates of Hell. I love this area, but we generally get out of here during the summer. I'm looking forward to a change of latitude and elevation. We'll be in the motorhome; some call that "camping"... I don't want bugs in my motorhome.

For now, I get outside to exercise early morning and around sunset. We typically have an 8º temperature swing from daytime high to nighttime low. It was 83º when I got up this morning at 6:30. In the words of the philosophers The Beatles: nothing to get worked up about. Air conditioning is your friend.

Stay cool.
 
We never considered air conditioning on our sail boats--always was a breeze--Several tall wind scoops--out of light weight Dacron, with SS hoops, pulled up the rig a few feet ensured a breeze...one exception was a few windlass nights in Panama, where we had temps of over 100* at night--an all night bar with some air conditioning--resolved that issue--and we got underway the next day...

Incidentally one of the "water makers" we saw at bar on an Island just off David--was a Sears Dehumidifier--seemed to make a few quarts of pure water an hour...

Back on the subject of air conditioning--I noted that our local WalMart has the "Arctic King" 5,000 BTU air conditioners for $136.99 (15 years ago they were $99)

The Shelter Rite fabric is a great alternative to Sunbrella when you want something purely water proof. It is very strong, and instead of sewing, just glue with HH66 Vinyl cement.
four 4.25" diameter D ring patches for $13.
I used some small snap shackles for hooking into the eye bolts:

Here is a photo of the patch and snap shackle --some of the Dacron cordage used to tie off the forward end of the fore deck rain fly. These snap shackles will tighten up as they are fastened, and will release under load, as a pelican hook will.



IMG_0984.sized.jpg
 
Foggy":wite2kbk said:
In heat, the antidote to froth is calm. Getting worked up
simply adds heat.

Let me repeat: A couple ice cubes in a wash cloth
on your forehead will make you a Believer.

Boaters who cannot stand (temporary) heat reminds me
of campers who cannot stand bugs.

Sea water temps rarely exceed 80+ *F or so. W coast a bit
cooler than E coast, on average. Normal body temp is less
than 90*F. Do the math. Take a plunge and cool down.

Aye.

Typo on body heat: ...less than 99*F.
Accuracy suffers when in a hurry.

Aye.
Grandma used to say, "Slow down to cool down."
 
Foggy":2l9bbavp said:
In heat, the antidote to froth is calm. Getting worked up
simply adds heat.

Let me repeat: A couple ice cubes in a wash cloth
on your forehead will make you a Believer.

Boaters who cannot stand (temporary) heat reminds me
of campers who cannot stand bugs.

Sea water temps rarely exceed 80+ *F or so. W coast a bit
cooler than E coast, on average. Normal body temp is less
than 90*F. Do the math. Take a plunge and cool down.

Aye.
Foggy, I see your home port listed as being in Michigan, so maybe you don't appreciate the oppressive heat and humidity that we suffer along the southeastern U.S. coast during the summer. Fact is, you can't take off enough clothes to stay cool this time of year.
I was raised on an eastern N.C. tobacco farm, working during the summers in the fields and barns in stifling heat. All I've got to say is "Thank God for allowing mankind to invent air conditioning!" And automatic transmissions....and elevators.
 
A/C was invented early in 1900s and not available as residential window units
for about 1/4 century later.

How did people tolerate life w/o this recent energy hungry invention?
Many live and have lived in tropics for generations...

So, sure A/C can make one feel better. What happens without power?
It happens. Review "Murphy's Law".

Aye.
Grandma used to say, "No matter what, no sniveling."
 
About body temperature, while we are indeed 98.6 on the inside we are closer to 86 at the skin, and being immersed in any water cooler than that will have some cooling effect on the body.
 
First Draft":1ydydcgx said:
Foggy, I see your home port listed as being in Michigan, so maybe you don't appreciate the oppressive heat and humidity that we suffer along the southeastern U.S. coast during the summer. Fact is, you can't take off enough clothes to stay cool this time of year.
I was raised on an eastern N.C. tobacco farm, working during the summers in the fields and barns in stifling heat. All I've got to say is "Thank God for allowing mankind to invent air conditioning!" And automatic transmissions....and elevators.

Sir, in fact, I have been in hot water exactly for
taking off too many clothes...

Aye.
 
BillE":3k3o28sm said:
About body temperature, while we are indeed 98.6 on the inside we are closer to 86 at the skin, and being immersed in any water cooler than that will have some cooling effect on the body.

Yes and no...The skin temperature can change with vasoconstriction and vasodilation. For example highly vascular areas, and places where the venous and arterial circulation is near the skin, the temperature may be higher than the "Core" temperature. Some people's core temp is lower and some higher than the average of "98.6* F.

My naturally heated swimming pool is at 90*--feels good when you get in--not cold or hot...but as soon as you get out, evaporative cooling takes over from the excess moisture on the skin.
 
When you're hot, you're hot. When you're not...

So how hot is too hot? *

Mild heat illness can begin with a temp of 101*F and is
usually auto compensated by sweating and vasodilation.
This with oral cold fluids and antipyretics can help prevent
heat cramps.

More severe heat illness might progress to heat exhaustion
then heat stroke; the latter an emergency and deadly.
Signs include dizziness, thirst, cold clammy pale skin
progressing to hot dry skin with changes in behavior.

When body temperature raises above 106*F and is accompanied
by decreased mental status, low blood pressure and rapid heart
rate, that's too hot (heat stroke).

Geriatrics (know any?) with medical conditions, young kids are
very susceptible to heat illness in very hot weather.

Take care out there. We're having a hot one now (94*F).
So stay cool.

* (EMT, retired and glad to be)

Aye.
 
Bob,
My Camframo maestro fan came today. I bought one to mount and check out before getting a couple more. What is the round white plastic cylinder with metal on the inside that the cord goes through? It doesn't mention what its for in the instructions.
Brandon

thataway":s4ma2eem said:
My current 25 has wood strips affixed to the area above side and aft windows, The curtain material is slid into a track and when rolled up is head by small diameter shock cord, looped over a round head screw. The forward curtains have shock cord around the periphery, and go around "buttons" screwed to the window Frame All of my other C Dory have had the snap on Sunbrella curtains. remove one of the frame screws in the corners, and put a Male snap in its place. The threads are close enough.

Screens. Current boat has shock cord around periphery. I have used army surplus No see em net and hot glued velcro to the edges. The mating velcro is contact cemented to the window or hatch frame.

For the forward hatch, we use an Endless Breeze Fan

The fan is supported on 5/8" dowels which go across the hatch (we flattened the ends so it does not roll)

We have a cover which goes from under the eyebrow, over the foredeck, being held by eye bolts under the eyebrow, and pieces of 3/8" line to the bow pulpit. If it is really blowing, we take the forward end of this to the deck on each side of the pulpit (eye bolts) and to the forward cleat.

This allows both the forward opening window, and the hatch to be open, and protected from rain.

For the inside each bunk has outboard, at the aft end of the bunk: Caframo Maestro fans. These have a remote variable speed control as well as control for the red or white LED light which is in the center of the fan. The remote control is placed so it can be operated from outside the V berth, or by reaching overhead when you are lying down.

Also the port bulkhead of the V Berth area has been completely removed--much better air circulation. We run the fans almost every night--mostly on the lowest setting.

Then there is air conditioning!
 
What is the round white plastic cylinder with metal on the inside that the cord goes through? It doesn't mention what its for in the instructions.



Brandon, What you describe is a Ferrite Bead. They are used to keep radio frequency interference to a minimum from the fan. Mine didn't have the beads, but I put them on other ;power supplies or transducer wiring if I get RFI. Leave it in place. I use the small plastic clips to hold wires in place.
 
thataway":8p6ysk44 said:
Brandon, What you describe is a Ferrite Bead. They are used to keep radio frequency interference to a minimum from the fan. Mine didn't have the beads, but I put them on other ;power supplies or transducer wiring if I get RFI. Leave it in place. I use the small plastic clips to hold wires in place.

That makes sense. I think I want to mount two of them on the coachroof in each aft corner by the door. Question is, do I just thru-bolt them? Or should I glass in a wooden block to screw them into?

I'd like to just epoxy a piece of teak to screw them in to but I'm not sure how well a piece of teak with underlying epoxy but without cloth over it will hold? I could also glass a piece of wood in by laying glass over it and painting it but I think of the three options I'd p probably have the hardest time getting that right.
 
I have used teak and other woods, glued with Epoxy directly to the fiberglass. Technique:
mask off the area on the fiberglas,
Sand this with #80 grit, get any surface paint off. Clean with alcohol.
Rough up the back of the teak block (I bevel the front edges). Clean with lacquer thinner to get the oils off the surface.
Use a slightly thickened or "G Flex" epoxy on the teak. Leave a couple of spots clear of the epoxy for the hot glue.
Use Hot glue in several spots on the fiberglass, to hold the teak block in place until the epoxy dries.

Oil the teak block, and attach the fan etc.
 
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