Jervis Inlet/Princess Louisa tips needed

D

Doryman

New member
My daughter and I are in Bedwell Harbour, working our way north to Jervis Inlet before heading back to Bellingham for the CBGT.

I was reading my Waggoner's and I am finding gaps in what I need to know about getting to Princess Louisa. My questions:

1. How long does it take to get to PL from the mouth of Jervis Inlet? Is it no-wake speed all the way up? Is this a day trip or a multi-day trip?

2. Is the nearest marina Nanaimo? Estimated travel time from Nanaimo to PL?

3. Where and what are the decent anchorages on the way to PL?

4. Waggoner says wait for slack tide to transit Malibu Rapids. True for planing boats as well as displacement-speed?

5. Waggoner says plenty of overnight moorage on the PL dock if you anchor out and wait for a crowd to leave for Malibu Rapids. Is this accurate?

TIA for answers to this and any other tips you may have.

Warren
 
1. The nearest town with fuel, a small grocery store, and a marina is Egmont. From Egmont to Malibu Rapids is about 32 nautical miles. We did it in about 1:50 minutes in a 22. From Pender Harbour it is about 45 nautical miles. You can go as fast as you want until you get to Malibu Rapids. Chatterbox Falls and the public dock are another few miles from the rapids. It is important that you go at a no wake speed through this area. When we were there a 45 foot Bayliner came in throwing a large wake and many people on the dock were furious. Wakes bounce off of the cliffs rock the boats at the dock a lot. Spend at least one night there. We spent two.

2. See above. I don't know what the mileage is from Nanaimo to PLI is, but it's probably in the 80-100nm range. The time for this could vary significantly depending on conditions in the Strait of Georgia.

3. There are several good spots in Jervis Inlet. Pender Harbour has a lot to offer in the way of services. Check the Waggoner Guide for the options there. My favorite spot in Jervis Inlet was the Harmony Islands. There isn't a lot of space for boats and the water is deep (50-60 feet) but it is gorgeous. Blind Bay and Ballet bay are nice but not really on the way to PLI. You could also try Secret Cove or Buccaneer Bay. Egmont is a good spot to stay if you are hitting an early slack. If you stay in Egmont check out Skookumchuck Rapids. It's a nice walk from town and amazing if there is a big tide running.

4. I'd go at or near slack. I have never seen it at anything else, but apparently it can be quite treacherous.

5. We were there in late June and there was plenty of space at the dock, especially for those of us with small boats. There is a lot of turnover. If you can't find space on the dock, try to anchor right in front of the falls. Your bow will stay pointed towards them because of the outflow.

Princess Louisa was one of the highlights of our first trip in the C-Dory this year, and definitely worth the trek. If you have a dinghy with an engine the camp is apparently worth a visit. You'll see it perched above Malibu Rapids and we've heard you can buy ice cream and other snacks.

We also hiked up to the trappers cabin. The trail leaves from right behind the outhouses and leads up steeply. It is well marked but not easy. It took us a bit more than two hours and was a fun activity. Take water and be prepared for it to take longer.

Enjoy the trip!
 
We had the pleasure of sharing the dock at PL with Retirever this June. I would look at the crossing of Georgia Strait as the major "obsticle". There is both the weather and Whisky Gulf Activity which have to be considered. We have generally gone to one of the excellent anchorages or Marinas in Pender Harbor. We went directly from Pender Harbor in 4 hours to Malibu Rapids (were a bit early), but went in about half an hour before slack. I have transited the rapids at an hour before slack--but during fairly low tidal ranges.

We have stopped at Egmont in the past, but did not this year. Consider viewing Skokumchuck Narrows if you stop there. Also most of the shelf fishing in this part of the world was closed because of Paralytic Shell Fish Poisoning (a pity, since there are great oysters).

Interestingly the Malibu camp's speed boats water ski and wake board near the rapids--but request that other boats go at a no wake speed. I would go no wake in the majority of the Princess Lousia Inlet--even large inflatables can cause a distubrance at the docks. There are also some bouys about half way into the inlet, with a public dock and some hikes in this area (a bit of overflow housing for the staff of the camp is here also).

Also check on the conditions of Jarvis inlet. There are some long reaches, where the fetch with substantial winds can build the chop. If you come in with the tide, it will use less fuel--cross the rapids at high slack. There is also a small cove which has some protection about 3 miles South of the Rapids--and several boats were anchored there waiting for the slack.

Definately worth the trip!
 
Warren, I am sure you are going to LOVE this place! It is a must-see experience! My answers are interspersed below.


Chatterbox_Falls_5_26_07.jpg

Doryman":ellpccvf said:
My daughter and I are in Bedwell Harbour, working our way north to Jervis Inlet before heading back to Bellingham for the CBGT.

I was reading my Waggoner's and I am finding gaps in what I need to know about getting to Princess Louisa. My questions:

1. How long does it take to get to PL from the mouth of Jervis Inlet? Is it no-wake speed all the way up? Is this a day trip or a multi-day trip?

I think it is about 40 miles from the mouth of Jervis Inlet to PL, measure it in hours, not days. You can run fast all the way, you only need to slow down to figure out your transit of Malibu Rapids. It is no wake inside PL Inlet, I think for about three or four miles.


2. Is the nearest marina Nanaimo? Estimated travel time from Nanaimo to PL?

There are several marinas much closer than Nanaimo, Pender Harbour, Secret Cove, Egmont, and perhaps some others, are on your way on the mainland side after you have crossed the Strait of Georgia (since you are at Bedwell - we simply ran up along the mainland side from Blaine).


3. Where and what are the decent anchorages on the way to PL?

My vote for best anchorage - hands down - Smuggler's Cove. This is a must see BC Provincial Marine Park. This is before you get to the marinas however. We ran up to PL from Smuggler's Cove, did not stop at the marinas except at Secret Cove for a repair.


4. Waggoner says wait for slack tide to transit Malibu Rapids. True for planing boats as well as displacement-speed?

My sense is a planning boat can transit Malibu Rapids pretty much at will, just like Deception Pass. We happened to hit it at slack going in, and left with everyone else going out, so I cannot speak from first hand knowledge. But the Boston Whalers from the camp are well known to be cavorting in the Rapids when it is running at full current. I think your TomCat will have no problem. But it may be a more pleasant ride if you hit at or around slack, especialy if you are nervous about it to start with!


5. Waggoner says plenty of overnight moorage on the PL dock if you anchor out and wait for a crowd to leave for Malibu Rapids. Is this accurate?

It is hard to imagine anchoring out - if you look up at the cliffs, and then imagine them continuing down under the water, you can get a sense of the depths there. I agree that the best time to arrive is right after the slack when a number of boats are likely to have just left. You could probably anchor very close in and let the rushing water from Chatterbox hold you straight I think.

TIA for answers to this and any other tips you may have.

Warren
Click to expand...
 
Hi Warren,

You've been getting good advice. About the only thing I'd add is in regards to the anchoring at Chatterbox Falls. We were there in August last year, and the dock was full... we were fortunate to get the last place at the dock. There were boats anchored near the falls and to either side of the inlet (I was told it was shallow enough to anchor in those places). You can stay up to 3 days on the dock. During our 3 days, there was not a lot of movement at the dock; be sure you have your dinghy so you can go to and from the dock. There is water at the dock (signage that it is not potable), no power... but the price is right (free). There is a nice, easy hike from the dock up to the falls. Being at the dock there was one of the highlights of our trip into Canada - nice socializing with other boaters, too.

After leaving Namaimo, we crossed the Strait in lumpy conditions; spent the night in Smuggler Cove. Bought fuel in Pender Harbour, then up Jervis to Princess Louisa Inlet. We timed it so we'd be at slack tide for Malibu Rapids... why push it if you can make it work so it's easy? :wink:

You can anchor at the Harmony Islands - best spot is between the islands and the close shore.

Once you are in Princess Louisa Inlet, there is a spot about half way with a few mooring balls. I'd bypass those and head right for the dock at Chatterbox Falls, though, to improve the chance of getting a spot at the dock.

While your TC can haul up the inlet, take some time coming or going to poke around... the scenery is beautiful. We were blessed with beautiful sunshine our whole time there. As I recall, we ran at about 20 knots up Jervis to get to Malibu Rapids at slack. From there, we were the first boat through, followed by several others... and we were all looking for dock space.

Watch weather, time your arrival at Malibu Rapids, and have fun! Oh, and post some photos when you can. :D

Best wishes,
Jim

The anchorage at the Harmony Islands...

HarmonyIsE.jpg

The dock at Chatterbox Falls...

PLIdock2E.jpg
 
Thanks for asking this question Warren. We have been eying that area for some time and the answers you have gotten are of great interest to us.
 
Warren, Thanks for getting this started. We are headed up that way over Labor Day weekend. Egmont sounds like a good jumping off for PLI, at least to us. Can anyone help with the best source for correct tide and current info for Malibu Rapids? Or Skukumchuck? Want to see it, don't know if I want to cross it, rather do the hike I think, just would like to see it at a good roar.

Hope you have a great time there,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
The above posts are good advise.

I would add that VHF radio reception gets cut off by the mountains surrounding Jervis Inlet. Monitor the weather channel as you leave the Egmont area as it will soon cut off.

Inside PL Inlet, VHF is only good for that local area, there is no communication with the Canada Coast Guard radio. Cell phones don't work, and satellite phones may not be able to see the satellites due to the near vertical canyon walls.

Be aware that you are in a remote area and that medical aid is not close by. Take the same care as you would if hiking in the back country. The camp at Malibu Rapids is reported to help folks with medical emergencies.

It is a good idea to transmit your intentions by VHF to enter Malibu Rapids to warn boats which may be coming the other way. Boats travelling WITH the current have right of way, as they cannot easily stop. During or near slack, boat may be going both ways. Large trawler type boats cannot maneuver well in the current swirls, so small boats should stay clear until the large vessels are thru the narrows.

Beware of strong up-inlet winds. If you are anchored in front of the falls, be aware that strong up-inlet winds can overcome the river current and blow your boat ashore. These winds do not normally occur in settled summer weather.

Another caution...DO NOT CLIMB THE FALLS!!! The logs and moss are unstable and can cause you to fall. Some 13 or so people have died climbing the falls! Remember that it is possible for logs to come over the falls at any time. Just looking at all the logs which have already come over the falls and landed below should be a warning.

If you climb the trail to the trappers cabin, tell someone, either someone on the dock or the ranger that you are going and when you expect to return.

Princess Louisa Inlet is a special place, enjoy it and protect it for the future.
 
A few notes on Egmont:

There are essentially three places to tie up. The public dock and Bathgate Marina are right next to each other and close to the start of the trail to Skookumchuck Rapids. The public dock is cheap ($.50 a foot a night) but the night we stayed there it was noisy with commercial fisherman. The small Bathgate General Store had a decent selection and a few fresh produce items. There is a fuel dock at the Bathgate Marina and water which is unfortunately not potable.

Our second night we moved to the Back Eddy Marina. It is about a half mile walk to the Bathgate General Store and the start of the trail to Skookumchuck Rapids but is a much nicer place to stay. The manager was excellent-very responsive. They have free wifi, power on the docks, potable water on the docks, and fuel available. If you are a Boat US member ask about the discount. We didn't eat at the restaurant but it looked good. If you walk to the top of the driveway and turn left down the adjoining driveway there is another restaurant that is supposed to be good.

The times of max flood and ebb were written at the Back Eddy Marina, or you could ask the staff. One of the Canadian Tide and Current Atlases would have the information as well...I'm not sure which one though.
 
Well everyone bet me to that one. I did have to run the rapidis at full flood as we were running out of day light and did not want to wait for slack. Its smaller ansd tighter then deception pass but I had no problem. just like running a sled up or down a river. look out for the rock on the right as you go in after the turn to the left. I wrote a long report on the whole trip. great place to spend the night.

P1010037.thumb.jpg
 
Although I have Washborn's tables and atlas, I found that the spiral bound tide and current book (sorry I left it with Paul Priest--and don't remember the name or publisher--but almost any book store or chandler--will have this in stock.

For Malibu Rapids from the Princess Lousia Society: "Malibu Rapids are listed in the tables as a secondary current station based on the tides at Point Atkinson. Add 35 minutes to the time of low Malibu Rapidswater at Point Atkinson and 25 minutes to the high water. Remember, these times may vary. Make sure that the line of overfalls have disappeared before entering the rapids." I believe that this is covered in The Wagoneers book also.

Awareness of the tides and currents are essential, and should be part of the "homework" done every night in preparation of the next day's voyage. I spend an hour so going over the paper charts, the chart plotter, the tide tables, and all of the guide books and history books each evening so I know what I will encounter the next day. I would do this, unless there is a stretch which I went over on very regular basis. For example, I don't review my local waters, but If I am going to Apalachicola--which I do twice a year, I will check the courses, look for any new changes in the Notice to Mariners and check the tides before undertaking the voyage. All part of prudent navigation--just as is the weather report!
 
there is a very good anchorage about half way up nelson island from pender harbour heading towards egmont. it is green bay, a very good bottom. we used to crosstie in the small bay on your port side heading in to the back of the main bay. a small creek comes in here. excellent oysters also!
 
Be careful in Green Bay...there is a large rock in the middle that is submerged at high tide. Also, all of the land is privately owned so there is no way to go ashore if you want. It does have good holding in moderate depths.
 
What a great resource this site is :!: Thanks to everyone for the great info.
Dr. Bob: Is the spiral book, Ports and Passes? for tides and current

Larry: for adding the charts

Tom: for the write up of your trip and the link to the web cam

Warren for the link to Tom's trip notes and for waving on your way by

And all the C-Brats for participation in all the threads

And does anyone know how often the PLI webcam updates?

We are really looking forward to making this trip soon.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I am surprised no one has mentioned any problem with mosquitos and black flies. Last time I was there they were thick, miserable. Am I the only one that has had that problem. Had the same problem in the Teakern arm, and the worst at Texada. That was late July a couple years ago.
 
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