Matt Gurnsey
New member
We have only seen the issue on the 90/115/140 block. The rmeoval of the port in about 2008 seems to have eleiminated the problem. We've seen no issues with the new 70/80/90 blocks or the 150/175 blocks.
Johnson (Suzuki) 90: Another midsection corrosion failure
- Thread starter timflan
- Start date
Corrosion is specifically NOT covered under warranty. "Dissimilar metals" could legitimately be called a design or manufacturing flaw, and apparently has been on the issue with the sensor port in the engine holder; the fact that they changed the design suggests that there was something...you know...WRONG with the original design.
Boat US went to bat for the Yamaha owners (I think it was the 200,225 and 250 blocks) with a similar problem and was able to get Yamaha to take responsibility. Wonder where Boat US is on this with Suzuki?
When I am able I will have to check my 140 Suzuki, since it is one of the blocks affected. If there is no visiable corrosion, I will change out the plug with an aluminum one. I might have to make one, or have one made; there was one on E Bay in the past--but I have not seen one recently.
By the way Tim, I am aware of a situation where the hi temp JB weld was used on the head of an aluminum 6-71 to fix a small corrorison leak, , and when I last talked to the owner he had over 500 hours on it, with no failure. That Head would probably be hotter than the outboard exhaust.
When I am able I will have to check my 140 Suzuki, since it is one of the blocks affected. If there is no visiable corrosion, I will change out the plug with an aluminum one. I might have to make one, or have one made; there was one on E Bay in the past--but I have not seen one recently.
By the way Tim, I am aware of a situation where the hi temp JB weld was used on the head of an aluminum 6-71 to fix a small corrorison leak, , and when I last talked to the owner he had over 500 hours on it, with no failure. That Head would probably be hotter than the outboard exhaust.
3/18/13
Brent
As you know, we have been negotiating with Yamaha on a program to address
dry exhaust corrosion on the company¹s F220/F225/F250 engines. After several
meetings, we are pleased to announce that Yamaha has agreed to a plan to
review and address our members¹ complaints.
Yamaha has proposed proceeding as follows:
· Contact each member
· Determine the basic information about the motor(s), PID, etc.
· Obtain any service records or repair orders
· Evaluate other circumstances
· Make a determination on a case-by-case basis of the level of
assistance.
Our next step is to provide Yamaha with your contact information so that
they can begin the program. They should begin contacting our members within
the next few weeks, though the volume of complaints means that it will take
some time to get to everyone.
We have talked to most of you and know you understand that most of these
engines are several years out of warranty and eight to 12 years old. Yamaha
was not legally obligated to provide assistance, but the program calls for
them to offer compensation ranging from credits for goods and services to
payment for parts depending on the specific circumstances. We believe that
Yamaha is making a good faith effort to address the dry exhaust corrosion
issue in order to maintain their quality reputation and demonstrate their
commitment to owners.
While non-BoatU.S. members can participate, we will be unable to do more
than provide contact information to Yamaha. BoatU.S. members will still have
BoatU.S. Consumer Protection behind them. If you are not a member and would
like to join, you can do so here at a savings of $6 off the normal price:
https://www.boatus.com/MembershipWeb_Ma ... sonal.aspx
Charles Fort
BoatU.S.
Director, Consumer Protection
Consumer Editor, BoatU.S. Magazine
Associate Editor, Seaworthy magazine
(703) 461-2878 ext. 3033
880 S. Pickett St.
Alexandria, Va. 22304
With more than 500,000 members, BoatU.S. is the nation's leading advocate
for recreational boaters. Join us at www.boatus.com
.
Brent
As you know, we have been negotiating with Yamaha on a program to address
dry exhaust corrosion on the company¹s F220/F225/F250 engines. After several
meetings, we are pleased to announce that Yamaha has agreed to a plan to
review and address our members¹ complaints.
Yamaha has proposed proceeding as follows:
· Contact each member
· Determine the basic information about the motor(s), PID, etc.
· Obtain any service records or repair orders
· Evaluate other circumstances
· Make a determination on a case-by-case basis of the level of
assistance.
Our next step is to provide Yamaha with your contact information so that
they can begin the program. They should begin contacting our members within
the next few weeks, though the volume of complaints means that it will take
some time to get to everyone.
We have talked to most of you and know you understand that most of these
engines are several years out of warranty and eight to 12 years old. Yamaha
was not legally obligated to provide assistance, but the program calls for
them to offer compensation ranging from credits for goods and services to
payment for parts depending on the specific circumstances. We believe that
Yamaha is making a good faith effort to address the dry exhaust corrosion
issue in order to maintain their quality reputation and demonstrate their
commitment to owners.
While non-BoatU.S. members can participate, we will be unable to do more
than provide contact information to Yamaha. BoatU.S. members will still have
BoatU.S. Consumer Protection behind them. If you are not a member and would
like to join, you can do so here at a savings of $6 off the normal price:
https://www.boatus.com/MembershipWeb_Ma ... sonal.aspx
Charles Fort
BoatU.S.
Director, Consumer Protection
Consumer Editor, BoatU.S. Magazine
Associate Editor, Seaworthy magazine
(703) 461-2878 ext. 3033
880 S. Pickett St.
Alexandria, Va. 22304
With more than 500,000 members, BoatU.S. is the nation's leading advocate
for recreational boaters. Join us at www.boatus.com
.
Anyone know if the new replacement parts, now Suzuki part number 09248-18010 (plug) and 09160-18031 (gasket) are Aluminum or still stainless?
I just ordered replacements, but if they are going to give me the same problem, i'm going to cancel the order and just get them from the ebay guy.
Thanks Jim
I just ordered replacements, but if they are going to give me the same problem, i'm going to cancel the order and just get them from the ebay guy.
Thanks Jim
Took the boat out yesterday, and HEY the pinging/rattling/knocking sound is gone! Will my J-B Weld HighTemp patch hold up? I seriously doubt it.
No matter, I've got the new Oil Pan component arriving today. Got a freshwater-only used one off eBay for $200!
I'll wait until after Friday Harbor to change it out.
No matter, I've got the new Oil Pan component arriving today. Got a freshwater-only used one off eBay for $200!
I'll wait until after Friday Harbor to change it out.
I replaced the bolt on my Suzuki 115DF last week and luckily was able to get it out with a little help with an extension on my Allen wrench. It’s a 2007, built in 2006 with 100 hours. Had corrosion on the bolt and the end of the treads were starting to go. Replaced it with the $18 aluminum bolt I got online. Can’t believe that Suzuki is still selling the steel bolt as a replacement item! While I had the engine covers off, I decided to look at the anodes in the water jacket and replace them if necessary. The anodes were fine, but there was so much salt built up in the anode pocket it looked like someone took rock salt and stuffed it in there. As I flush my engine every time I come back to the dock, and only use the boat about 4 weeks a year, I was shocked by the amount of salt. It took me 20 minutes to unplug the holes, and then I sprayed salt away in the two holes to try to remove any residual salt. After this at the end of the year when I do the annual, I’m going to remove the anodes and keep checking if I’m getting this salt buildup.
Anyone got an idea why this would happen when the motor gets flushed and is not kept in the water. Maybe I’m not flushing long enough?
Anyone got an idea why this would happen when the motor gets flushed and is not kept in the water. Maybe I’m not flushing long enough?
I finally got the chance to look at my 2006 DF90 to see if I had the corrosion issue described above. As per usual, things never go as simple as planned. I couldn't get the screws off to remove the side cover. Wrong size screwdriver and no available socket that would fit the screw. I was however able to take off the rubber "side cover plug" and take a look at the offending bolt in question. It looked clean as a whistle to me with no corrosion that I could detect. Therefore, at first glance, it looks like no problems with the corrosion issue. Whew! I am going to try and get the side cover off to take a better look but I'm pretty certain that it's clean. At that time, I will replace the steel plug with the aluminum one I bought online for $17. In a post above, I read that the corrosion issue seems to be affecting boats that have been moored in salt water more than those on trailers or dry stored. Luckily, we've moored C-Dancer at Twin Bridges probably 7 out of 9 seasons. Perhaps that's the reason why there's no evidence of a corrosion problem.
Question, does anyone know the proper socket size for those screws? Dumb question but I looked at the Brown's Point microfiche illustrations of the parts and it says the screw size is 6 x 35 and 6 x 55. I'm assuming that would be metric size 6?
Question, does anyone know the proper socket size for those screws? Dumb question but I looked at the Brown's Point microfiche illustrations of the parts and it says the screw size is 6 x 35 and 6 x 55. I'm assuming that would be metric size 6?
Hi you really need to take the bolt out to see if you have the corrosion problem. For the outside everything looks great. It’s when you take the bolt out is when you see the corrosion and that the treads are starting to go. To get the side cover off all you need is a thin and long Phillips head screw driver.
Also is you have never checked the internal anodes, I would do that also. I flush my motor every time I come back to the dock and In the last few years the anode holes have been caked in salt. I’m now using salt away and I’m not even sure that is doing much good.
Also is you have never checked the internal anodes, I would do that also. I flush my motor every time I come back to the dock and In the last few years the anode holes have been caked in salt. I’m now using salt away and I’m not even sure that is doing much good.
Thanks Petemos. Yes, I tried using the long Phillips screwdriver but the screws started to strip. That's why I thought a socket would be better.
I hear you about removing the bolt. That's my next move. As for my anodes, those were changed out last year and I was told they were pretty bad. I'll be sure to check those at the same time.
Peter
I hear you about removing the bolt. That's my next move. As for my anodes, those were changed out last year and I was told they were pretty bad. I'll be sure to check those at the same time.
Peter
journey on
New member
The 6 mm is the bolt size, not the head size. Go to a bolt place, ask for a 6 mm bolt and see if the head matches the one on the motor. If it does, you have your answer. If not, either ask a Suzuki shop or order a new one. Or wait for someone else to answer the question.
On my KTM bike, the bolts have small, non-standard heads to save weight. Not the best ides in the world for saving weight IF you're doing the work on it..
Boris
On my KTM bike, the bolts have small, non-standard heads to save weight. Not the best ides in the world for saving weight IF you're doing the work on it..
Boris
:thupSteve, This is where you can buy the bolt on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350576159300?it ... m=&vxp=mtr
There are (4) internal anodes all on the port side of the engine. They are all the same type. Two are located on the left just above the bolt you will be replacing and one of those require you to remove the lower port motor housing, so you might as will do it at the same time. These have two screws you have to remove and you will most likely need (2) new gaskets to go with this anode change. If you can get a thin chisel or screw driver between the anode cap and the motor housing, that is the best way to get pry them off. At lease the first time, as they will most likely be fused on.
The other two are located on the right, also on the port side. They have only one screw and have an O ring gasket. Once you remove the screw, you can take a vice grip and lightly attach it to the Anode cover. They just twist and pull the cover and it should pop out.
Once you get the covers off you will most likely have to dig out the salt and soak it in hot water to get at the screw that holds the anodes in the cover. I had to put the covers in a vice to be able to remove the anode screw holding them in. After that you put the new anode and screw back and coat the top of the screw with silicone to cover the screw head. Then just put everything back in.
One thing I did not do is check the thermostat, which based on what I have seen, may also be caked in salt. You may want to check that also while you are in motor mode. That is what i am going to do, when i am back at my boat.
Good luck.
Jim
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350576159300?it ... m=&vxp=mtr
There are (4) internal anodes all on the port side of the engine. They are all the same type. Two are located on the left just above the bolt you will be replacing and one of those require you to remove the lower port motor housing, so you might as will do it at the same time. These have two screws you have to remove and you will most likely need (2) new gaskets to go with this anode change. If you can get a thin chisel or screw driver between the anode cap and the motor housing, that is the best way to get pry them off. At lease the first time, as they will most likely be fused on.
The other two are located on the right, also on the port side. They have only one screw and have an O ring gasket. Once you remove the screw, you can take a vice grip and lightly attach it to the Anode cover. They just twist and pull the cover and it should pop out.
Once you get the covers off you will most likely have to dig out the salt and soak it in hot water to get at the screw that holds the anodes in the cover. I had to put the covers in a vice to be able to remove the anode screw holding them in. After that you put the new anode and screw back and coat the top of the screw with silicone to cover the screw head. Then just put everything back in.
One thing I did not do is check the thermostat, which based on what I have seen, may also be caked in salt. You may want to check that also while you are in motor mode. That is what i am going to do, when i am back at my boat.
Good luck.
Jim
Thanks Jim,
I will be looking at this soon. I will have to look in the repair manual to see if those anodes are shown. I don't recall seeing them.
I finally did a valve adjustment that took two months. One month to get the valve compression tool then after seeing what shims I needed another 3 weeks to get the shims. No local shops had these and no one online could get them any faster without tripling the prices.
Steve
I will be looking at this soon. I will have to look in the repair manual to see if those anodes are shown. I don't recall seeing them.
I finally did a valve adjustment that took two months. One month to get the valve compression tool then after seeing what shims I needed another 3 weeks to get the shims. No local shops had these and no one online could get them any faster without tripling the prices.
Steve
Hi Steve, for some reason the repair manual does not show the Anodes on the right side that have the O rings. Brown’s Point, which is located by me told me about these other anodes. I never knew there were another two until I spoke to him. I don’t have my boat here or I would take a picture. Best I can say is the other two are high to the right, only have one screw, are somewhat teardrop looking and have a bump in the middle. They are number 5, 6, 7 and 8 on this diagram, but it does not actually show were they are installed. See link below.
http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/bp_ ... sp?ID=1248
http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/bp_ ... sp?ID=1248
Thanks Pete for the information. I think my manual does have a picture of two anodes higher on the engine, but no description at all to explain what the picture is or exactly where.
It has taken me several readings of this problem to realize that Tim has had two holes open next to bolts. The first problem is the bolt on the holder casting that corroded first. This seems to be the one that has an aluminium replacement on ebay.
The second on is on the oil pan just to the right of the flush plug where you can connect a hose. Is this bolt also steel?
If I don't see a problem now and replace the steel bolt on the holder casting, will that prevent the oil pan problem?
Steve
It has taken me several readings of this problem to realize that Tim has had two holes open next to bolts. The first problem is the bolt on the holder casting that corroded first. This seems to be the one that has an aluminium replacement on ebay.
The second on is on the oil pan just to the right of the flush plug where you can connect a hose. Is this bolt also steel?
If I don't see a problem now and replace the steel bolt on the holder casting, will that prevent the oil pan problem?
Steve