It's been a month and a half now since getting my CD22. It's in the driveway and I'm slowly going over it trying to learn as I go. I have a new Suzuki 9.9 kicker tied by an aftermarket rod (stearnsinc) to the main for steering. But how do you steer from the helm without shift and throttle control? Was I dumb enough to not order the helm controls for the kicker? Also, I could remove the rod but the tiller when unfolded won't turn through it's range because it hits the port side of the transom and you wouldn't run with the tiller folded! I'm missing something fundamental here!
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kicker controls
- Thread starter edwardf
- Start date
Weather you were asleep at the wheel at the time you ordered your boat is yet to be seen. It all depends on how and why you plan on using
your kicker. If you plan on doing a lot of trolling for fishes, then you need only lock down the gas at the rpm you wish to use to maintain your
trolling speed. Then all you need to do steer in the pattern you wish to obtain the results desired. The engine will run just fine with
the tiller arm in the up position, so there is no good reason to disconnect your motor to motor rod.
Now if on the other hand you choose to use your kicker as your main engine to cruise and dock, then I would look into
purchasing the controls so you can shift and stop as you would with your Main engine.
There are several setups shown here in the owners photo albums that you might want to look at before taking the next step of
ordering controls, cockpit second station , etc.
your kicker. If you plan on doing a lot of trolling for fishes, then you need only lock down the gas at the rpm you wish to use to maintain your
trolling speed. Then all you need to do steer in the pattern you wish to obtain the results desired. The engine will run just fine with
the tiller arm in the up position, so there is no good reason to disconnect your motor to motor rod.
Now if on the other hand you choose to use your kicker as your main engine to cruise and dock, then I would look into
purchasing the controls so you can shift and stop as you would with your Main engine.
There are several setups shown here in the owners photo albums that you might want to look at before taking the next step of
ordering controls, cockpit second station , etc.
starcrafttom
Active member
the main funtion of the kicker is to troll or get home when the main goes south. by having the kicker tied to the main you can steer from inside where it is A) warm B) dry. I just set the kicker to the speed I want and then steer from inside. The kicker will run just fine with the handle in the up postion. If you have the quick disconnect rod tieing the two motors together then you can disconnect the main from the kicker and just drive with the kicker at the transom. Some people perfer this method. I also like having the motors tied together so you can use one auto pilot for both motors. Hope this helps .
Edwardf:
Yes, controls for the helm are extra and separate from your main. There are some remote control units available to allow you to control the kicker (steering/speed, trolling patterns) from anywhere about the boat. You can do a search for these. I think TR-1 gold is one name brand.
There is another speed control available that lets you adjust the trolling speed in very precise increments. When you catch a fish hit the button and the kicker drops to idle, kick it in neutral and reel fish. Kick it in gear and Hit button and resume trolling speed. kinda like cruise control on a car.
Sounds like your kicker is mounted on the port side. Since the tiller is mounted on the port side it is much closer to the port splash well compared to starboard mounting when the kicker is pointing straight ahead. If your dealer installed the kicker they should have pointed this little problem out before mounting. The best use of available space is to mount the swim step on the port side and the kicker to starboard. If yours is mounted on the stern (without bracket) you can move it to starboard without much trouble. If you have a swimstep to starboard you can not use it due to the kicker in the way. So it should go to port. Don't know if your boat has trim tabs. Just one more thing to consider when using a kicker.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
Not sure if this link will work. If not look at the bottom of page one in my album. You can see a 15 kicker beside an 80 main with swim step to get an idea of the clearance. I don't use a steering rod. I lift the main and turn it to port. When cruising on the kicker I sit on a cushion on the splashwell, steer with right hand and lean on the top of the main. It makes a great backrest. Or sit on starboard lazaret and steer with left foot.
Yes, controls for the helm are extra and separate from your main. There are some remote control units available to allow you to control the kicker (steering/speed, trolling patterns) from anywhere about the boat. You can do a search for these. I think TR-1 gold is one name brand.
There is another speed control available that lets you adjust the trolling speed in very precise increments. When you catch a fish hit the button and the kicker drops to idle, kick it in neutral and reel fish. Kick it in gear and Hit button and resume trolling speed. kinda like cruise control on a car.
Sounds like your kicker is mounted on the port side. Since the tiller is mounted on the port side it is much closer to the port splash well compared to starboard mounting when the kicker is pointing straight ahead. If your dealer installed the kicker they should have pointed this little problem out before mounting. The best use of available space is to mount the swim step on the port side and the kicker to starboard. If yours is mounted on the stern (without bracket) you can move it to starboard without much trouble. If you have a swimstep to starboard you can not use it due to the kicker in the way. So it should go to port. Don't know if your boat has trim tabs. Just one more thing to consider when using a kicker.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
Not sure if this link will work. If not look at the bottom of page one in my album. You can see a 15 kicker beside an 80 main with swim step to get an idea of the clearance. I don't use a steering rod. I lift the main and turn it to port. When cruising on the kicker I sit on a cushion on the splashwell, steer with right hand and lean on the top of the main. It makes a great backrest. Or sit on starboard lazaret and steer with left foot.
Great topic! I too have questions about kickers and their controls. Can one easily use a kicker of another brand than the main? I have a 115 Etec and they do not make a small enough kicker, yet. My concern is "tieing" the two together for helm control and using remote controls along side the main's controls in the cabin. I am thinking the 9.9-15 HP range is appropriate for the 22-25 cruisers.
Chris Bulovsky
New member
Kicker placement /controls are a personal choice that needs to suit your needs. I went with kicker controls in the cabin. (that was why I wanted a hard top) It works for me. Some adjustments were needed to address clearance issues.
Search the Our C-Dorys and find a fella with the same make main and kicker and see if you can learn something from them.
Good luck with your trouble
Chris Bulovsky
Washburn Wi
Search the Our C-Dorys and find a fella with the same make main and kicker and see if you can learn something from them.
Good luck with your trouble
Chris Bulovsky
Washburn Wi
Dora~Jean asked-
If using the kicker to get home, wouldn't it be better to tilt up the main engine to minimize drag?
Yes, definitely.
Will the steering connection between the kicker and main still work in that condition?
Yes, if it is correctly mounted with the intent to do so. Several different tie-bars are available, however, and it may depend on if the set up was chosen with that in mnd and placed properly to do so.
Joe.
If using the kicker to get home, wouldn't it be better to tilt up the main engine to minimize drag?
Yes, definitely.
Will the steering connection between the kicker and main still work in that condition?
Yes, if it is correctly mounted with the intent to do so. Several different tie-bars are available, however, and it may depend on if the set up was chosen with that in mnd and placed properly to do so.
Joe.
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?p= ... ght=#20119
Here's a previous discussion of the Troll Master. Sorry, but can't remember the fancy way of inserting a link. We had one on our last boat and they are a "must have" for kickers. We'll get another one when we get a kicker for our CD. We had the stainless tie rod from Cabela's and it worked great...cheap, too.
Rick
Here's a previous discussion of the Troll Master. Sorry, but can't remember the fancy way of inserting a link. We had one on our last boat and they are a "must have" for kickers. We'll get another one when we get a kicker for our CD. We had the stainless tie rod from Cabela's and it worked great...cheap, too.
Rick
starcrafttom
Active member
the troll pro looks good ,but at $400 its not a must have for me. if it did more then just controll the rpms maybe I would get it. just seems over priced to me. I would pay $100 for it maybe.
Dora~Jean":1hn2ty5y said:If using the kicker to get home, wouldn't it be better to tilt up the main engine to minimize drag? Will the steering connection between the kicker and main still work in that condition?
When we had our 16' we had a 50 HP Honda and 8 HP Honda kicker. Anytime we were solely using the kicker we would tilt the 50 HP up out of the water and had no problems steering at the helm, with the steering connection that we had.
I'm adding a kicker over the winter, more for the security than to fish.
I was thinking I should move the swim step to the starboard side and put the kicker on the port. This would tend to balance the weight of the "hefty" helmsman. Also I guess I'll have to add an extension bracket to get the kicker shaft to clear the trim tab.
My kicker dealer suggested leaving the main motor down to act as a rudder but I'm reading here this may cause more drag than its worth?
So if you were starting from scratch which is the best side to place the kicker/swim step?
Phil
I was thinking I should move the swim step to the starboard side and put the kicker on the port. This would tend to balance the weight of the "hefty" helmsman. Also I guess I'll have to add an extension bracket to get the kicker shaft to clear the trim tab.
My kicker dealer suggested leaving the main motor down to act as a rudder but I'm reading here this may cause more drag than its worth?
So if you were starting from scratch which is the best side to place the kicker/swim step?
Phil
ccflyer":1qmfc34f said:So if you were starting from scratch which is the best side to place the kicker/swim step?
Phil
Again, back to the 16' I had with the kicker. I had the kicker on the starboard side and the swim step on the port side. I always thought the kicker on the port side would have been preferred (to offset the weight of the helmsman when cruising solo). However, it was pointed out to me, that if you were to install the kicker on the port side and the swim step on the starboard side, you would be stepping over the control line bundles every time you used the swim step.
I do believe that a few folks have installed their kicker on the port side, but don't know if they use a swim step or not. If they do perhaps they can enlighten you as to whether that is a problem or not. (Many folks probably don't use their swim step that much anyhow, so wouldn't consider it a problem).
Based on the factory's recommendation since we knew virtually nothing about boats at the time, they installed the swim step on the starboard side and the kicker on the port side. I think the reasoning was to offset the weight of the batteries and the driver on the starboard side. However, it is more awkward to steer using the kicker tiller. We have to raise the tiller up a little while turning and is actually quite uncomfortable when steering for a long time. In retrospect, it would have been better to mount the kicker on the starboard side for steering purposes so that the tiller would be more centered. That's where I would see the benefit of having a tie rod to connect the two engines, so that you could steer from the helm. But the tie rod would have to be the kind where you could raise or lower either engine. Just my $.02.
Peter
Peter
When I had a 15 hp Johnson kicker (long shaft) kicker on my Cd-22, it was mounted on the starboard side along side the main motor (90 hp Evinrude 2 stroke) on the transom itself, not on a bracket. It could be steered with the handle, or with a rod linked to the main motor. There were no remote throttle or gear shift linkages. It was easy to start and operate that way.
A kicker motor on the port side must have remote steering (not tiller), and for reasonable convenience, electric starting.
Joe.
A kicker motor on the port side must have remote steering (not tiller), and for reasonable convenience, electric starting.
Joe.
Chris Bulovsky
New member
Phil- I leave the main down when trolling . Most trolling I do is 1.7 to 2.6 MPH. (Kinda slow) In a head wind the main engine down helps. Keeping the bow pointed in the wind when fishing alone can be tricky. :wink:
Now...... when the objective is just get somewhere with the 9.9 kicker the main gets tilted up. Less drag is less drag. I have not found boat control to be an issue above 3 MPH when running the kicker. The hull likes to track straight all by its self .You really don't need the main down. You just need enough forward volocity to overcome any opossing wind forces.
I have found this setup easy and most importantly pleasurable to use.
As for the engine tie rod "thing" this forum helped me a bunch. http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=1309
Chris Bulovsky
Washburn Wi
:smiled (Does this little guy remind you of Ray Charles?)
Now...... when the objective is just get somewhere with the 9.9 kicker the main gets tilted up. Less drag is less drag. I have not found boat control to be an issue above 3 MPH when running the kicker. The hull likes to track straight all by its self .You really don't need the main down. You just need enough forward volocity to overcome any opossing wind forces.
I have found this setup easy and most importantly pleasurable to use.
As for the engine tie rod "thing" this forum helped me a bunch. http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=1309
Chris Bulovsky
Washburn Wi
:smiled (Does this little guy remind you of Ray Charles?)