Kicker w/ Mini-Jacker - possibly dumb questions on clearance

M

Major Tom

New member
So I have my new Tohatsu 6Hp Sail Pro (all manual tilt, 20" shaft) on the mini-jacker, clamped to the starboard transom for some test fitting. There are photos in my album. Maybe these are dumb questions but before I work up the courage to drill through the transom I thought I'd double check with the experts.

My main questions are:
-I get 1.5" clearance from the trim tab when in my expected running position... that's good enough, right? To clear the tab when in the full down position (shaft closest to transom) I'd need to offset the MJ about 3/4" or so, but I can't think of any reason why I'd need to trim it down more than my running position... am I missing anything? To explain further, I can clear the trim tab quite well if I set the trim stop bar (the fixed "quick bolt" that sets the maximum down tilt) at my estimated running position... roughly 90 degrees from the plane of the boat at rest. I even have an "extra" hole, so I could bring the shaft closer toward the transom if needed. And I have 3 more holes to raise it up, so it's all good there. However, if I set the trim stop bar in the FULL down position closest to the transom, it won't clear, I need another 3/4" or so.

-Is it OK to mount the kicker off-center on the MJ by about an inch? If I mount it about 1 inch to the left of center, the kicker can clear the splashwell, main engine clearance is good at about 3/4", and kicker can turn all the way to the stops (if I raise the tiller when at the extreme ends of the right turn). Again, sort of dumb... I can't see any issues with doing this.

-My clearance to the tab actuator is about 3/8" and tab operates fine from stop to stop, no touching. Is that enough clearance or should I allow more? Right now the MJ is butted up against the black splashwell cap trim, but I guess I could trim that cap back and lift the MJ up a bit if needed, which would give more actuator clearance. I can't think of any reason more clearance is needed.

-The MJ manual says to bolt the outboard bracket to the MJ with 2 bolts, but I see only one pretty thin piece of metal on the kicker where it could bolt (see photo with finger). I never worked with small outboards before, is that the "bracket" I should drill/bolt? Is there a better way?

-The MJ manual says to mount the MJ to transom with 6 bolts?] Is that really necessary? I would think 4 would do the trick fine, using 3/8" bolts, especially since this is a 6hp that weighs only 58 lbs. Also, I plan on overdrilling/epoxy w/cabosil on the holes, but that's more for intrusion protection, but I guess that might add a little strength too. I hope to be able to trailer without removing kicker, with the kicker almost down to running position, just like my main Honda 90. Not sure if that's a factor...?

Sorry to ask such simple questions but my new motto is "ask C- Brats once, drill once". Thanks!
 
On your first question, it should be fine to set the pin for best position and not worry about it again. My problem is that on my 16, the 6 hp clears the transducer just fine on the 3rd or 4th hole, but when I run it on the dinghy I'm on the first or second hole, so when putting the 6hp back onto the C-dory it will sometimes hit the transducer unless I remember to change the trim angle before removing it from the dinghy. With the Sail Pro, I'm guessing you won't be running it on other boats and won't need to mess with the trim angle since you are running at displacement speeds. It is good to remove the pin and lube it every now and then...I've seen too many small outboards with the pin corroded permanently into place!

-Mike
 
MT,
The thin notched metal plate at the base of the engine clamping system is a spacer plate. It helps keep the mounting clamps of the outboard engine in line at the bottom of the bracket assembly. You can go to boats.com and view the part on your engine there.
 
Thanks for the replies. I just found Colby's install with essentially the same setup, and indeed he used that notched bracket at the bottom for bolting. I'm trying to attach photo here but it's also in my album if this doesn't work:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

It's a bit odd that Tohatu's manual says to bolt it, with a diagram showing bolts about 5" higher than the notched bracket. Yet there are no bolt holes whatsoever, not even a good place to drill if you were so inclined. Then again, I guess that's not the first Asian manual to be wrong.

In case anyone runs into the same issues, I've determined that the clearances I have are good, offsetting the kicker on the MJ a bit to the left is fine, using 4 bolts to mount the MJ is fine (I guess if it was a heavier kicker I might want 6), and that the only way to bolt this particular kicker to the MJ is the way Colby did it. The only thing I'm not sure of at this point is how the Cabelas EZ steering link will go, but I'm pretty certain I can bend as needed. OK, next step... drilling!

Again, thanks for the help.
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Tom, fwiw I believe I put bolts thru that little metal bracket on the bottom of the kicker more for "harder to steal" security than "mounting" security. Lol. I also have a lock attached thru the two mounting pins as I turn them to line up. Colby
 
I had a minimum amount of clearance and I thought it was fine. But under torque, the engine pushed forward and vibrated against the trim tab resulting in a horrible sound thru the entire boat. I had to move the engine "up" on hole and the problem went away and still works.

Pic in my album.
 
Tom, I don't believe there were any predrilled holes. I really think it's made just to have the two "attachement" bolts used to hold the kicker on. I'll take a closer look at it a little later. It's under cover right now as we just got back from a great Princess Cruise to Alaska. Now I have the inland passage on my bucket list to do in my own boat! :D Colby
 
Thanks, Colby. No need to look under the cover, I was just curious, because there are definitely no bolt holes on mine. And I think you're right, it's just the 2 screw clamps.

I drilled and filled my mini jacker holes today, letting them cure overnight and then I should be able to mount the kicker tomorrow. Went pretty smoothly,at least so far!

I did the Passage on a cruise ship about 10 years ago, spectacular! But you're right, all I kept thinking was 'this would be amazing in your own boat'. Those CBs who live up that way have some beautiful country to boat in!

Again, thanks for the help!
 
Many thanks to all who helped and created such excellent tutorials! Went out yesterday to begin breaking in the kicker, and all performed flawlessly. Clearances were fine, turning was great, no tab interference, and the prop/skeg didn't drag at any speed... just a little spray. It was nice to have the backup, and like most others, I was doing 4.8 kts at about 50% throttle on pretty flat water, with no speed increase at 75% throttle. All in all I'm very happy so far with this rig.

I essentially mirrored colbysmith's install. Like Colby I butted mine up to the splashwell trim cap, pretty much as high as it could go without cutting that trim. I did run into a minor issue at the very end, when drilling the 2 holes on the small bracket on the bottom of the Tohatsu, which as Colby put it, are more for anti-theft security. I knew that i was dangerously close to the thick, reinforcing molds inside the mini-jacker, and I didn't want to hit them drilling. By angling the drilled holes just a bit I was able to clear the bar, but I still had to grind one nut a little to make it fit. I was in a hurry to get finished so I can break the engine in before the snow flies here, so I'll go back later and figure out a way to extend that little bracket a bit lower. Not a big deal, but I should have paid more attention to that upfront.

I also have come to the same conclusion as others: locking the kicker almost straight and steering with the main engine works really well. Docking with the kicker operated from the stern using the tiller takes a little practice, but can be done. So for now I don't see a need for a Cabela's EZ steer rig.

I would still like to have throttle, and will look into a ThrottleMaster rig. I found that at idle, in gear, it was almost the same as neutral, the thrust was very low. And I'll make a PVC tiller extension at some point.

The 6a charging alternator on the Tohatsu is a nice plus, and worked well. I don't have a battery monitor yet, but before starting the kicker the battery was reading 12.9v on my fishfinder. At 25% throttle I was immediately getting 13.5, and about 30 minutes later it was 14.3, still at 25% throttle. That's not exactly scientific, but I was encouraged... I need to hookup at meter one of these days, but it does what I wanted, keeps the house battery topped off (although I've read that all outboards won't charge the last 20% like a trickle charger, don't know if that's true).

I'll post some pics in my album in case it helps someone, although Bob, Colby and others already have a lot of great info on theirs.

Again, thanks!
 
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