Jon-
Interesting story...glad you made it out of the "jam" ok!!!
Brings up an interesting point. Of the various possible problems that occur when you have a single engine and no kicker, the prop damage one of the most common. I'd guess the common problems to be in about this order of probability:
1. Dead battery(s).
2. Prop or lower end damage.
3. Gas contamination/fuel system problems.
4. Real engine running issues, overheating first, then electrical, and then mechanical.
I've probably left something* out, but my point is that if you're going to operate in dangerous areas due to wind, waves, tides, rocks, floating objects, etc., you can minimize your exposure to the these in the following ways (in numerical order).
1. Dual batteries, or better, AND carry a starter battery pack sufficient to start your outboards. I have one under the helm floor board with the charger connected into the 120 v system for automatic maintainance charging.
2. If you anticipate damage, not only carry a spare prop, but when operating in areas where you have high probability of collision with objects, use a stainless prop, as the prop will suffer less damage and usually be able to still propel you out of harms way until you can switch it. However, once you spin the rubber hub good, you may be limited to about 5-7 mph as the hub won't transfer any more power than that without slipping. But it's a lot better than having very little or no blades at all left!
3. Besides using Stabil, keeping the fuel system religiously inspected, and dumping the sediment traps on the Racors and engine itself, get a spare 2 1/2 or even 6 gallon can with the correct fitting for your engine and bypass the rest of the fuel system in an emergency. Put Stabil in the gas and rotate it every few months by dumping it in the main tanks and refilling.
4. Service your engine thoroughly. Obviously, a newer powerplant is more reliable than an older one. If I were operating in an area where sediment, plastic bags, or other harmful debris was a major concern, I'd look for a engine temperature gauge for my own observations, even though the engine has a protective warning and slow down system of its own. If you have an engine that is prone to fouling plugs, such as an older 2 cycle, keep a spare set of new ones and the wrench and any other tools necessary to change them. Not a bad idea for any engine, since you can't really see the plugs w/o removing them. Keep your Owner's Manual handy, and the Shop Manual if you have one.
AND don't forget to carry a sharp knife readily available just in case you snag a wayward crab pot, buoy line, or ???
At least there are some ways that we can minimize the perils of operating w/o a back up powerplant. Joe.
*steering and shift/throttle control problems, for instance...
Interesting story...glad you made it out of the "jam" ok!!!
Brings up an interesting point. Of the various possible problems that occur when you have a single engine and no kicker, the prop damage one of the most common. I'd guess the common problems to be in about this order of probability:
1. Dead battery(s).
2. Prop or lower end damage.
3. Gas contamination/fuel system problems.
4. Real engine running issues, overheating first, then electrical, and then mechanical.
I've probably left something* out, but my point is that if you're going to operate in dangerous areas due to wind, waves, tides, rocks, floating objects, etc., you can minimize your exposure to the these in the following ways (in numerical order).
1. Dual batteries, or better, AND carry a starter battery pack sufficient to start your outboards. I have one under the helm floor board with the charger connected into the 120 v system for automatic maintainance charging.
2. If you anticipate damage, not only carry a spare prop, but when operating in areas where you have high probability of collision with objects, use a stainless prop, as the prop will suffer less damage and usually be able to still propel you out of harms way until you can switch it. However, once you spin the rubber hub good, you may be limited to about 5-7 mph as the hub won't transfer any more power than that without slipping. But it's a lot better than having very little or no blades at all left!
3. Besides using Stabil, keeping the fuel system religiously inspected, and dumping the sediment traps on the Racors and engine itself, get a spare 2 1/2 or even 6 gallon can with the correct fitting for your engine and bypass the rest of the fuel system in an emergency. Put Stabil in the gas and rotate it every few months by dumping it in the main tanks and refilling.
4. Service your engine thoroughly. Obviously, a newer powerplant is more reliable than an older one. If I were operating in an area where sediment, plastic bags, or other harmful debris was a major concern, I'd look for a engine temperature gauge for my own observations, even though the engine has a protective warning and slow down system of its own. If you have an engine that is prone to fouling plugs, such as an older 2 cycle, keep a spare set of new ones and the wrench and any other tools necessary to change them. Not a bad idea for any engine, since you can't really see the plugs w/o removing them. Keep your Owner's Manual handy, and the Shop Manual if you have one.
AND don't forget to carry a sharp knife readily available just in case you snag a wayward crab pot, buoy line, or ???
At least there are some ways that we can minimize the perils of operating w/o a back up powerplant. Joe.
*steering and shift/throttle control problems, for instance...