Lake Ouachita Adventure

onthewater

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Lake Ouachita Adventure

Oct. 10, 2010
We left our house near Branson, MO around 9:00 AM. The plan had been to leave at 8:00, but you know how that goes! Finally everything was aboard, and secured. We put the trailer on the truck, and off we went.

This was to be the longest trip hauling the boat since we brought her home from Crystal River, FL last May. Although we used her nearly every weekend this past summer, it’s only a couple miles to the launch ramp on Table Rock Lake, where we live, so our journey to south Central Arkansas would be much longer.

The roads in northwest Arkansas, although scenic, are pretty winding, steep, and not particularly “trailer friendly”. The only way to get to
I- 540 would be to go through Eureka Springs, AR. (There is an alternate route available to a car, but it involves an 9’ wide, ”one way” at a time, wooden suspension bridge that forbids truck traffic. That wouldn’t work. It’s a little scary going over in a car, so taking the boat that way, even if it were wider, was not acceptable). Eureka Springs is a charming little town, but the streets are very narrow, winding, and always crammed with tourists, especially on a beautiful fall weekend.

The other alternative was to go north to Springfield, MO, and take Interstate 40 west to connect to I- 540. Although it added about 100 miles additional travel to the trip, it was a much safer, and we think wiser alternative. A couple weeks ago we had the trailer wheel bearings re-packed at a local trailer facility. One of the bearing buddies had come off, and the grease had that “been burned” smell. They checked the rotors and the discs, and everything was OK. The hubs were not out of round (especially the one which lost the bearing buddy). The trailer mechanic said it should be OK for the trip, and he was right. We stopped about 25 miles out, and I checked the hubs. Good news. They were all cool to the touch!

We have a Ford F250 Super Duty diesel, that pulls the boat very well. If we set the cruise control at 65 on the interstate, we don’t even know the boat is there. The other concern on this trip was the trailer surge brakes. Closer to Lake Ouachita the highway grades become steeper. Lori and I just decided to start slow at the top of the grade, brake sparingly, then briefly accelerate to disengage the trailer brakes after slowing down. There were some pretty good hills, but this seemed to work well. When we arrived at Lake Ouachita the hubs were just warm to the touch. Not bad.


Our base of operations is Harbor Mountain Resort and Spa. They were very helpful, and accommodating while planning this trip (answering numerous e-mails promptly and cheerfully).

Lake Ouachita is a Corps of Engineers project formed in 1953 when Blakely Mountain Dam was completed. October is past the “busy” season, so it seems we had the lake pretty much to ourselves. Right now, the lake level is down because of low rainfall. The folks at the marina advised not going up into the “Ouachita River” portion of the lake, but rather to heading further “downstream” toward the dam, where there’s more water, and less” stick-ups”. (Old tree “stumps” sometimes visible, and sometimes just below the surface of the Lake). That sounded fine to us.

When the lake filled there were several (a lot) mountain “tops” above water level making for numerous islands. How cool is that? That means lots of coves, and places to explore. It also means more likelihood of sheltered anchorage, should the need arise.

The Corps established “way point” markers on the lake. Shore markers are square, and island makers are diamond shaped. They have a free “chart” that shows the numbered system, and allows you to find your relative position. The normal elevation pool for the lake is 578’. Right now it’s down 10’, hence the caution from the marina staff.

After launching and paying the Corps $3.00 launch fee we motored out to a small group of islands between marker 26 and 27, on the south side. Private residential housing is not allowed on the shoreline, and although several campgrounds were established, development on the lake itself is minimal. We were treated to a spectacular sunset, and then a display of stars reserved only for those far from city lights. In fact, we did not see, or hear, another boat all night.

October 11, 2010

It cooled off most pleasantly last night, making sleeping easy. Our two crew members (Maggie, and Mallory) were quiet, as well. Maggie is a Golden Retriever, and Mallory is a Chesapeake Bay Retriever. As you might expect, since “retriever” plays prominently in both breeds, they LOVE the water. They’re both about one year old, and have LOTS of energy. They’ll find, and retrieve a stick just about as long as you’re willing to throw it.

Our plan was to inflate the dinghy, and take them ashore. However, the skies were overcast, and a check of weather radar indicated an approaching thunder-storm. There was a long fetch of open water from the southwest approach direction of the storm, and we needed better protection. Hmmm… time to seek a more sheltered anchorage. Sorry girls, the dinghy ride would have to wait.

We hauled anchor, and left in search of a better spot. The chart showed an area off point 25 where there was a large cove, with a fairly narrow entrance affording much better cover. At least it looked like a good spot. As we approached the entrance, there was a diamond shaped marker that said “Caution: Shoal Area”. Hmmm… a quick perusal with the binoculars not only showed said marker to be “floating” on dry land, but also LOTS of stick-ups standing guard a short distance above the surface of the lake, nearby. (Stick-ups are the remains of trees submerged when the dam was completed, and the lake filled. Running into one is enough to ruin your whole day).

Not too hospitable. Luckily, we saw another side cove (different from the one we originally intended to use). We proceeded slowly, casting a wary eye for any obstruction. This cove looked even better “in person”, than as depicted on the chart. It afforded lots of protection, and allowed plenty of room to swing. We dropped the hook in 15’ of water, and let out plenty of scope. The anchor held. Life is good.

Our anchor light from the previous evening attracted a good size "flock" of May Flies. (Apparently no one told them it was October!) I spent some time plucking the little buggers off the boat, and converting them to fish food. It brought back memories of a time on our previous trawler, on Kentucky Lake. (This time it WAS May.) On that occasion, the May Flies were so thick you could hardly see deck or cabin. The life span of a May Fly is very limited. They die soon after hatching. If they chose to die on your boat in the sun, you have a significant chore ahead, cleaning them up.

This time, however, it was just a matter of picking them up and tossing them into the water. (Bonus points awarded if you could grab two, at the same time!)

We inflated the dinghy and prepared to take the anxious “crew” ashore. After rowing a very short distance, the crew mutinied, and swam ashore on their own, one after the other. Oh well, they were going to get wet anyway! We walked (they ran) up and down the shore at full speed. They discovered a “mud bog” about half way along our shoreline excursion, and had a ball running in up to their bellies! Luckily, all the mud washed off the very next swim. We found some sticks, and they retrieved, and retrieved, and retrieved.

At the point of near exhaustion, they decided it would be OK to return to their boat, so that’s what we did. In the meantime, the clouds went away, and the sun came back. It ended up being a very pleasant day. The weather person still promises rain tonight.

We decided to take the girls ashore once more before dark. This time we went to the opposite side of the cove. Less mud, but they still found what little there was. In the process, they had a rollicking good time. We rounded everybody up, and rowed back to the boat.

As we cooked dinner on the BBQ, some pretty impressive thunderheads formed to the west (in the direction of Ft. Smith, AR). They were tall, and one of them put on a very intense cloud-to-cloud lightning display. It reminded me of something you would see in a bad science fiction movie, but this was real. Both of them passed well to the north. We listened to some John Doan music on Lori’s i-pod (after hearing a sample on a C-brats video presentation). This Irish music was enchanting, and very peaceful. What a wonderful way to close a great day.

October 12, 2010

During the night it did rain a little, but nothing more than a sprinkle. I woke up about midnight, and there were lots of stars. I woke again about 2:00 AM, and they were gone. The wind piped up, and we were moving around a good bit more. The remainder of the night proved uneventful.

The plan called for renting a guest slip at Harbor Mountain Marina for a couple days (the reasons for which will be shortly clear). In season, I can imagine this a movin’ and hoppin’ place. In mid-October, it was pretty subdued (not that there’s anything wrong with that!)

To rent a slip you have to register at the Lodge office, which is just a short walk up the road from the marina. Apparently, most of those who rent slips are also staying at the lodge (if you brought a bass, or a pontoon boat, that would make a great deal of sense). Transient boaters are assigned to “L” dock. It is around the point from the Marina office, and up a longish cove. Many docks line both sides of this cove, with the majority permanent slip renters.

We were assigned slip numbers 7 and 8. I walked over to check things out, and I’m glad I did. The width of the cove has shrunk dramatically with lowered lake levels, and the docks are pretty close together. There was a way to “L” dock, but it was less than obvious at first glance. At one point the depth was a bit more than 5’, but most of it was between 6-10’. It did require a circuitous route to make our way to the assigned slips.

Honestly, there were some boats in permanent dockage that would not have sufficient depth, or width to gain access to the lake at this pool level. (The passage width between two of the opposite shore docks in the cove was probably not more than 9-10”. There were numerous houseboats, probably in the 50-60’ range that easily had to have 10-12’ beams, and were effectively “marooned” until the rains come). Apparently, since it’s “out of season”, that is not an issue, and with “normal” lake levels it wouldn’t occur.

We paid for two nights slip rental. I asked if there was a shower available for transient boaters, and was told most boaters just use the shower in their rooms. Shannon, the lady helping us at the desk said the Joplin Campground, which was a couple miles away, had public showers. When she saw the look on my face (“campground showers”) she said they were in good condition, and cleaned daily. Shannon, I’m happy to report, was correct on both points.

The slip was $25 per night and included electric service (which appeared to be a 20A plug, so you’d need that adapter). There were three water spigots available at the Marina fuel dock, but none on “L” dock. That all worked fine for us.

You may recall, that I earlier said the name of this facility was Mountain Harbor Resort and SPA. Lori made a shrimp boil dinner with veggies and potatoes on the BBQ, we walked the girls, and hit the sack, dreaming about what was to happen the following morning.

October 13, 2010

Turtle Cove Spa is a couple miles drive from the Marina, but still situated on Resort property. We had a 10 o’clock reservations for a couple’s massage. We were up early, drove to the Joplin Campground for a hot shower, and arrived at Turtle Cove right on time. What transpired the next hour was heavenly. The facility was very well appointed, the staff most friendly, and knowledgeable, and the experience memorable. We “poured ourselves out” following the massage, and picked up the complimentary gift of two fresh red roses, a bottle of sparkling wine, a slab of Godiva Chocolate, and two delightfully scented candles. Guys, if you want to make some points, keep this one in mind!

We’d never been to Hot Springs, and since we were so close, it made sense to look around. Hot Springs is a medium size city about 25 miles east of the resort. Several “locals” told us time spent at Garvan Woodland Gardens located on Lake Hamilton was worthwhile. The locals were right! There are some amazing floral and nature displays. It’s all a self guided walking event, unless you rent a guided Golf Cart tour, so bring comfortable shoes.

Following several enjoyable hours walking around the garden, we drove down to Central Avenue (Bath House Row, the original Hot Springs “claim to fame”) and looked around. A great dinner was consumed at Rolando’s Nuevo Latino Restaurant in the 200 block of Central Avenue. Rolando is from Ecuador, and the food was wonderful-not Mexican and not Tex-Mex, but new flavors all unto themselves. The shrimp soup and Tilapia was most scrumptious. They also have a patio out back cut into a sheer rock wall. Even though you’re not too far from the bustle of the busy street, it seems a world away. Most excellent! We drove back to the marina to close a really fun day.

October 14, 2010

Last night really cooled down. The temp this morning was 41 degrees. I know it’s mid-October, but that’s still a bit chilly. Availing ourselves to the opportunity of another long, hot shower seemed too good to pass up, so we returned to the campground. Then we hooked the trailer back to the truck, which sat undisturbed right where it had been left. The Lodge said during times of high traffic, there’s another overflow trailer parking lot just a few hundred feet away. This time of the year however, parking space was no problem. It’s easy to envision it otherwise, though.

I squirted a couple pumps of grease into the Bearing Buddies on the trailer, so we should be “ready to roll”. We topped off the water tank at the Marina office, bought a few “presents” for the one’s left behind, then headed back out on the Lake. There’s a chain of several small “Islets” near the bigger Island marked “41” on the chart, further downstream, and that was our destination. After poking about a bit, we found a place that looked suitable, and dropped the hook. It set well, and we launched the dink to take the pups ashore.

We promptly named this place “Fire-pit Island” because it was obvious there had been many, many BBQ’s held here in the past. Not only was there a well built, thoroughly used fire ring sitting on the highest promenade of the island, making best use of the view and shade from many pine trees, but there were also several iron grills hanging on a tree just waiting for their next use.

We circum-walked this outpost twice, throwing the puppy retrieving stick all along the way. They had a ball, and as a bonus, were thoroughly exhausted by the time we finally returned to the dinghy. This setting is spectacular, but has one downside (there’s seemingly always one, isn’t there?) An over abundance of biting flies rule the roost. We finally took refuge in the cabin after putting up all the screens, and dispatching the ones that managed to sneak in! Even the dogs were tired of their nuisance biting.

Tomorrow we’re heading home after a leisurely breakfast, and run back to the marina.

October 15, 2010

Another beautiful, clear morning, so the puppies thought it only fitting to take another trip around their island. Since it was still pretty cool, we discouraged them from swimming, but they most enjoyed their free run. It also dissipated a lot of “energy”, and that’s a good thing considering we have a long drive ahead.

As we hauled anchor we paused to take one last look around. This really is a beautiful place to see, and well worth the time and effort to arrange a visit.

One navigational note to keep in mind, the water depth can vary widely, and over quite a short distance. One moment you can be cruising along with 110’ under the keel, and in a very short time drop to 15-20’, or less.
One key to help anticipate these changes is to look at the slope of the islands/shoreline. The underwater topography is likely to be a continuation of that visible above the lake. A steep shoreline “probably” indicates much more water nearer shore, and vice versa. That’s not always the case, but is at least a good rule of thumb.

We made our way back to the Marina, put Sal Salis Vita back on the trailer, and made ready for our return home.

This was to be our “shake-down” cruise, as it were. We wanted to make sure all the systems worked, and fine tune any little “nuances” that arose.

The latter are few and easily addressed. We need to make a few more dock lines, and pick up a spare anchor and rode. We need to fine-tune some storage, and make things a little more organized. Lori found some heavy fabric” pouches” originally made to hold baby supplies near a changing table. She cut them into individual sections, and we plan to secure them with hook and loop on the inside of the hull in the V berth. They can help organize light weight objects, and keep them accessible.

She also has some small suction cup hooks to hold dish towels, etc., next to the Wallas stove top, and on the forward wall of the head compartment.

We finally wanted to make sure the two of us could still “do this” (with the puppies’ help, of course). They do add some effort to the logistics of the trip, but it’s sure a lot of fun to watch them have a lot of fun! They’re also great alarm systems. Nothing, and I do mean nothing, escapes their attention. They’re not the least shy about letting us know they hear/see something.

We’re not yet ready to retire, and there are lots of uncertainties on the political horizon. It sure is nice, though, to be aboard, where a day lasts 24 whole hours.

At work it always seems we’re in a hurry to do this, or that. On the boat, that’s simply not the case. Although the challenges are different, it’s that difference that makes boating so attractive.

Wishing you all fair winds, and calm seas,
Bob, Lori, Maggie, and Mallory
 
Bob, Lori, Maggie, and Mallory

We just found your post and it sounds like us.

Our C-Dory 22', 75 HP / 9.9 Hondas has traveled about 10,000 miles much as described in your post. The latest was a round trip on the Tennessee/Tom and Tombigbee cruising 1,100 miles, 12 days, 1 motel, 10 anchoring out, 4.5 MPG.

Brenda and I have fond memories of The Chateau on Table Rock and of Lake Ouachita.

We enjoyed your post.


Bill and Brenda Russell 870-533-2663
 
Hello Bill and Brenda:

Thanks for your nice comment, and glad you enjoyed the post.

Boats should be for using. That's one of the most appealing aspects of a trailerable cruiser, and exactly why we bought Sal Salis Vita.

On our trawler, it could literally take days (or weeks) to reach a cruising "destination", (not that this couldn't be fun in and of itself, but it's certainly not always that way). Additionally, there are some places (like Lake Ouachita) where that would simply not be possible without great effort, and expense.

The alternative of hitching up the trailer, and taking off is awesome.

Sounds like your most recent trip was a blast. We found some parts of the Tenn-Tom a little tedious, but the Tennessee River is a wonderful place to cruise. You could hang out there all summer and fall!

Best wishes,

Bob, Lori, Maggie and Mallory
 
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