Latest TC255 wiring diagram?
- Thread starter JMacLeod
- Start date
As you no doubt have figured out, very few wiring diagrams exist for C-Dorys in general, partially because of the many different manufacturers that have built the boats over the years, partially because of the variations within the production runs of the individual builders, and partially because different years saw different equipment available at the time of manufacture. What is more, much of the final rigging is done by the individual dealer who sells the boat and adds the engine(s), electronics, and other accessories.
However, since yours is a 2018 model, why not just ask the present manufacturer if they have a diagram you can get a copy of ?
If you get one, be sure to post a copy of it here.
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
However, since yours is a 2018 model, why not just ask the present manufacturer if they have a diagram you can get a copy of ?
If you get one, be sure to post a copy of it here.
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Thanks, Joe.Sea Wolf":2jzkgcra said:
I requested a copy from the dealer yesterday and already sent a request via the mfg website as a backup this morning, so hopefully I'll get an answer up or down before the end of business today.
If they send me anything I'll definitely upload a copy to the archives.
I have found that factory wiring was inconsistent thru the years. The wiring is simple and fairly easy to trace. The first thing to do is label each and every circuit at the fuse origin and the terminus no matter what a diagram may show. It is rare that color coding or marked wires are found in any C dory. I use a standard brother labeler and wrap the labels around the wires.
Thanks, Bob, that's pretty much as I figured.
Excellent suggestion. Those P-Touch labelers are great for cable management.
The boat is kept 3 hours away, and I'll get some "hands-on" time to trace and flag wires tomorrow and Sunday before heading back home.
The diagram is just a navigation aid while I'm crawling around the boat, as well as something I can use to plan out any modifications/additions while I'm away from the boat.
The 2008 diagram should be sufficient for purpose if there's not a more up to date version available.
Excellent suggestion. Those P-Touch labelers are great for cable management.
The boat is kept 3 hours away, and I'll get some "hands-on" time to trace and flag wires tomorrow and Sunday before heading back home.
The diagram is just a navigation aid while I'm crawling around the boat, as well as something I can use to plan out any modifications/additions while I'm away from the boat.
The 2008 diagram should be sufficient for purpose if there's not a more up to date version available.
gulfcoast john
New member
Hi John!
You’ll figure it out.
In my simpleton mind, there are only 3 legs to the 12v system:
3 batteries (stbd eng, House, port eng) to 2 rotary battery switches (Engines, House) which determine where the 12v energy goes and whether any 2 banks will be Combined.
Bilge pumps, CO detectors, and (possibly) stereo memory will be wired direct to batteries, prior to any switches.
When shorepower and the 110v Battery Charger are both ON, all 3 batteries will get charged via direct wiring from the charger to the + battery terminals and Neg to the Common Ground Bus mounted on the transom which ultimately is the engine ground into the water.
When you go out on the water, the two Engine batteries will be charged by the alternators in their engine (P&S), but the House battery won’t be charged by anything at all once disconnected from shorepower (unless you change the House rotary switch to ‘Combined’, which in my boat only combines it with Port engine battery, not the starboard one, so if you hook up a VSR voltage sensitive relay $79 gizmo like I did to the stbd eng battery and House battery nothing gets charged at all while underway on the water). I discovered this after 5 years while running the St John river with only one engine on, the other down but off, and noting the voltages on the helm VDC meter. No wonder the House Combined switch still resulted in running down my House battery after a day of running electronics, the fridge on 12V and the windlass, a real amp hog. 12.5v is a resting charged battery, 13.0v or above means something somewhere is charging, and 12.22v is the 50% discharged danger zone…combine or charge ‘em.
From the rotary battery selector switch, two huge 12V Pos cables will run toward the helm on the stbd side, one to the helm bus under the steering station which powers all DC items forward of the throttles, and the other to the windlass and its solenoid controller.
One relatively small wiring harness from the engines to the binnacle/throttles comes from the engines and from there to any engine instruments on the panel. (An independent blue wire from the Nav light switch lights pertinent instrument gauges etc when underway at night from the Helm 12v bus, though the instrument reading itself is from it’s engine via the Engine Harness).
You can set up your Garmin 7612 to show it’s Unit 12vDC voltage and set alarms for low voltage (12.22VDC is a 50% discharge, under 12.2v is not ideal).
Maybe this is the page:
Setting Up the Battery Management Page
1. Select A/V, Gauges, Controls > Battery Management > Menu > Edit Devices.
2. Select an item.
3. Select Device, and select an item from the list.
4. If necessary, select Name, enter a name for this device, and select Done.
5. If necessary, select Change Icon, select a new symbol, and select Done.
6. Repeat steps 2 through 5 for each device.
Sorry you bumped the cowling.
On Cat O’ Mine, the Definition of A Good Boating Day is:
-Total damages under $1,000
-No one is seriously injured or killed
We had a really violent lift in the Joe Wheeler lock on the Tennessee river that blasted the bow sponsons away from the lock wall and resulted in an engine cowling getting scraped and gouged up the 90 feet or so of rough cement lock wall despite our most heroic efforts and 6 fenders against the lock wall. Since MSRP of a Yamaha F150 engine cowling is $1,200 (before shipping, which is expensive) as we docked at Ditto Landing near Huntsville, AL we decided it was Not a Good Boating Day. As often happens, a random dock walker admiring the fleet came by and we invited him to check out the interior. Turns out he is a marine service tech who said we could remove the scraped up Yamaha decals, wet sand and spray paint with Yamaha gray, buy new decals, move the cosmetically compromised cowling to an inside position on the other engine, and for $300 plus labor get an acceptable result. (At that point, Kath on Pounder brightly pointed out, “Hey, for ony $300 it wasn’t a Bad Boating Day after all, per Cat O’ Mine Criteriea, Right?”…to which we had to agree.
I am too embarrassed to post pics of the cowling yet.
Have some great Boating Days!
John and Eileen
You’ll figure it out.
In my simpleton mind, there are only 3 legs to the 12v system:
3 batteries (stbd eng, House, port eng) to 2 rotary battery switches (Engines, House) which determine where the 12v energy goes and whether any 2 banks will be Combined.
Bilge pumps, CO detectors, and (possibly) stereo memory will be wired direct to batteries, prior to any switches.
When shorepower and the 110v Battery Charger are both ON, all 3 batteries will get charged via direct wiring from the charger to the + battery terminals and Neg to the Common Ground Bus mounted on the transom which ultimately is the engine ground into the water.
When you go out on the water, the two Engine batteries will be charged by the alternators in their engine (P&S), but the House battery won’t be charged by anything at all once disconnected from shorepower (unless you change the House rotary switch to ‘Combined’, which in my boat only combines it with Port engine battery, not the starboard one, so if you hook up a VSR voltage sensitive relay $79 gizmo like I did to the stbd eng battery and House battery nothing gets charged at all while underway on the water). I discovered this after 5 years while running the St John river with only one engine on, the other down but off, and noting the voltages on the helm VDC meter. No wonder the House Combined switch still resulted in running down my House battery after a day of running electronics, the fridge on 12V and the windlass, a real amp hog. 12.5v is a resting charged battery, 13.0v or above means something somewhere is charging, and 12.22v is the 50% discharged danger zone…combine or charge ‘em.
From the rotary battery selector switch, two huge 12V Pos cables will run toward the helm on the stbd side, one to the helm bus under the steering station which powers all DC items forward of the throttles, and the other to the windlass and its solenoid controller.
One relatively small wiring harness from the engines to the binnacle/throttles comes from the engines and from there to any engine instruments on the panel. (An independent blue wire from the Nav light switch lights pertinent instrument gauges etc when underway at night from the Helm 12v bus, though the instrument reading itself is from it’s engine via the Engine Harness).
You can set up your Garmin 7612 to show it’s Unit 12vDC voltage and set alarms for low voltage (12.22VDC is a 50% discharge, under 12.2v is not ideal).
Maybe this is the page:
Setting Up the Battery Management Page
1. Select A/V, Gauges, Controls > Battery Management > Menu > Edit Devices.
2. Select an item.
3. Select Device, and select an item from the list.
4. If necessary, select Name, enter a name for this device, and select Done.
5. If necessary, select Change Icon, select a new symbol, and select Done.
6. Repeat steps 2 through 5 for each device.
Sorry you bumped the cowling.
On Cat O’ Mine, the Definition of A Good Boating Day is:
-Total damages under $1,000
-No one is seriously injured or killed
We had a really violent lift in the Joe Wheeler lock on the Tennessee river that blasted the bow sponsons away from the lock wall and resulted in an engine cowling getting scraped and gouged up the 90 feet or so of rough cement lock wall despite our most heroic efforts and 6 fenders against the lock wall. Since MSRP of a Yamaha F150 engine cowling is $1,200 (before shipping, which is expensive) as we docked at Ditto Landing near Huntsville, AL we decided it was Not a Good Boating Day. As often happens, a random dock walker admiring the fleet came by and we invited him to check out the interior. Turns out he is a marine service tech who said we could remove the scraped up Yamaha decals, wet sand and spray paint with Yamaha gray, buy new decals, move the cosmetically compromised cowling to an inside position on the other engine, and for $300 plus labor get an acceptable result. (At that point, Kath on Pounder brightly pointed out, “Hey, for ony $300 it wasn’t a Bad Boating Day after all, per Cat O’ Mine Criteriea, Right?”…to which we had to agree.
I am too embarrassed to post pics of the cowling yet.
Have some great Boating Days!
John and Eileen
Unfortunately, the mfg said they're working on new schematics for all the models but nothing is available yet.Sea Wolf":2o6vicrx said:
Thanks, John.gulfcoast john":2o6vicrx said:
You saved me several extra hours of head scratching.
According to the 2 engine/3 battery ACR wiring diagram from Blue Sea:
The Engines dual circuit switch connects Engine 1 to Start Battery 1, and Engine 2 to Start Battery 2.
The DC Main dual circuit switch connects the House battery bank to the DC distribution panel, and is wired to Start battery 2 on the other circuit for combining.
One SI-ACR connects the House battery to Start battery 1.
A second SI-ACR connects the House battery to Start battery 2.
This seems like the most logical set-up to my mind, but I'm drawing from a vast wealth of ignorance.
In this scenario it looks like each alternator charges it's own start battery.
Each Start battery is connected to the House battery via it's own SI-ACR and should(?) be isolated using the start isolation circuit on the center tab (not shown) to prevent voltage spikes on the house circuit during cranking.
Based on this, I assumed the 14.5v each alternator puts out would be shared between it's own Start battery and the House battery anytime when underway.
Seems once the Start batteries were topped-up, all the alternator charge would continue to be sent to the House battery, but you know what they say about assuming...
At first glance, C-Shalom's wiring looks like it could be similar to the diagram except for the additional 3 feeds from the ProNautic 1220P charger.
Checking individual voltages underway and under shore power shows almost exactly as you described.
After a night of charging, the House battery and Starboard Start battery showed 13.2v while the Port Start battery stayed at 12.58v.
With the engines running, the Port Start battery was now being charged by the alternator at 14.7v and the other two batteries dropped to 13.03v.
Hopefully someone can shed a little light on how these components are actually wired and why they're wired that way?
beautiful wiring in the boat and diagram....too bad its is not wired properly!
There are any number of possibilities--you are going to have to do some diagnostic work...or take the boat back to the dealer and demand that it be corrected. This may entail chasing every wire and then checking every switch.
The port motor is connected to charge the port start battery only--it also could be a defective switch. Also could be incorrectly wired/defective ACR. The starboard engine is not charging either battery. Again probably a simple wiring error.
The ACR should be active when the battery charger is working. So I would start looking at the ACRs and how they are wired..
It also looks as if the battery charger leads are going to the ACR, instead of the battery.
There could be a problem with the starboard alternator, as well as the ACR or wiring. It may just be a simple wiring problem.
Sometimes looking at the circuit and then at the wiring there is an obvious mistake.
Do your engines have two charging outputs? Suzuki should have--thus making the ACR redundant, and perhaps complicating the charging--certainly not allowing the best features of the battery charger to be used...
Many boats only are wired with only one engine charging the house battery, so It may be that this is the case, and there is an error in the wiring. Where the error is--may be obvious--may not--but the volt meter will tell--label the wires and check voltages as well as doing your own diagram.
There are any number of possibilities--you are going to have to do some diagnostic work...or take the boat back to the dealer and demand that it be corrected. This may entail chasing every wire and then checking every switch.
The port motor is connected to charge the port start battery only--it also could be a defective switch. Also could be incorrectly wired/defective ACR. The starboard engine is not charging either battery. Again probably a simple wiring error.
The ACR should be active when the battery charger is working. So I would start looking at the ACRs and how they are wired..
It also looks as if the battery charger leads are going to the ACR, instead of the battery.
There could be a problem with the starboard alternator, as well as the ACR or wiring. It may just be a simple wiring problem.
Sometimes looking at the circuit and then at the wiring there is an obvious mistake.
Do your engines have two charging outputs? Suzuki should have--thus making the ACR redundant, and perhaps complicating the charging--certainly not allowing the best features of the battery charger to be used...
Many boats only are wired with only one engine charging the house battery, so It may be that this is the case, and there is an error in the wiring. Where the error is--may be obvious--may not--but the volt meter will tell--label the wires and check voltages as well as doing your own diagram.
Hi Bill.BillE":2i856aqc said:
I was thinking possibly as much chance user error as an actual problem until Bob gave me a chuckle.
thataway":2i856aqc said:
Yes, I discovered that feature listed for the DF150 on the mfg site while searching for alternator specs and amps.thataway":2i856aqc said:
(Which on a sidenote was impressive. At an idle 1000 rpm they can produce 35 amps each, and over 40 amps each below 2000 rpm. Seems like quite a bit of juice is getting underutilized.)
So between two dual circuit switches that can combine, two dedicated SI-ACRs, 4 available alternator outputs, and 1 to 3 charger outputs, there really are a lot of ways to skin this cat, and only the technician knows which way he chose.
I'll start with testing the ACRs as you suggested, and see where that path leads.
Besides the extra alternator outputs making the ACRs redundant, so does the 3 separate feeds from the shore charger.
It looks like you could choose to wire each battery directly to it's own charging feeds and eliminate the ACRs, or use the ACRs as intended and only need a single feed from each charging source for all battery banks.
It'll be a few days before I can go down and see her, so I have some time to read through the manuals again and try and make it make sense to my brain.
With that charger you want to wire each battery separately. Put the temp sensor probe on the house battery (You will probably want to add a second house battery in parallel).
I would get rid of the ACR, because they will be active during the battery charger usage and defeat some of the features of the individual battery charging of the ProNautic charger.
The ACR combine when the voltage reaches a certain level--usually 13.7 volts, rather than the battery being charged. The outboards go right up to 14.4/.5 volts rapidly--before the battery is fully charged.
Both the ACR and independent charge circuits off the motor will Isolate the batteries. Another option is to split two house batteries (when you get them) and then charge off each port and starboard motors, Then select one two or all for use of the house bank. Or dedicate one to electronics, stereo, lights etc. The other to the refrigeration--which is often the largest draw on the Tom Cat. Lots off ways to do this, and choices.
From what you have written, I suspect that the intent was to charge the house bank, only off one outboard. Not sure if the wiring was done at the factory or at dealer. I can see the factory putting in the ACR, not being aware you were going to use the Suzuki engines...then the engine wiring would have been done by dealer.
Don't remember if you put in a monitoring system or not--and that may reflect on what choices you make on the house bank.
I would get rid of the ACR, because they will be active during the battery charger usage and defeat some of the features of the individual battery charging of the ProNautic charger.
The ACR combine when the voltage reaches a certain level--usually 13.7 volts, rather than the battery being charged. The outboards go right up to 14.4/.5 volts rapidly--before the battery is fully charged.
Both the ACR and independent charge circuits off the motor will Isolate the batteries. Another option is to split two house batteries (when you get them) and then charge off each port and starboard motors, Then select one two or all for use of the house bank. Or dedicate one to electronics, stereo, lights etc. The other to the refrigeration--which is often the largest draw on the Tom Cat. Lots off ways to do this, and choices.
From what you have written, I suspect that the intent was to charge the house bank, only off one outboard. Not sure if the wiring was done at the factory or at dealer. I can see the factory putting in the ACR, not being aware you were going to use the Suzuki engines...then the engine wiring would have been done by dealer.
Don't remember if you put in a monitoring system or not--and that may reflect on what choices you make on the house bank.
We definitely want a bigger house bank, also solar and some way to monitor usage or at least SoC, as well as considerations for the Honda 2200i.thataway":18jivfsw said:
I've been kicking around ideas of putting an AGM shelf in the top of the water heater cabinet and/or the top of the galley cabinet versus adding more weight to the transom with another flooded 27 or golf cart batteries versus some of the other suggestions on the forum, including moving the batteries down into the sponsons.
There's so many options available it's causing a bit of analysis paralysis.
These particular SI-ACRs will combine as low as 13.0v if sensed for a continuous 90 sec... which I guess means that immediately after charging, the surface charge will keep them combined until enough of a discharge knocks it below 13v?thataway":18jivfsw said:
Seems even more of a reason to use the start isolation feature if using these ACRs.
As much as I hate wasting brand new fancy electronic gizmos, I have to agree. If we purchase one or two Suzuki harnesses I can't think of any useful purpose left for the ACRs. :?
I think we covered that above with analysis paralysis. :shock: :lol:thataway":18jivfsw said:
We could purchase one harness, and another flooded house battery, or one harness and replace the flooded house with 2 AGMs, or two harnesses and one AGM in the cabin that charges independently from the flooded house bank.
I guess I need to weigh the expense, effort, and practicality of each option before proceeding.
Haven't decided on a monitor yet because I haven't researched enough real world experience to know which features are useful versus hype, i.e. $15 diy LCDs compared to $XXX namebrand marine gizmos.thataway":18jivfsw said:
There are features on the various monitors which are pluses. I have used the Victron 702 type mostly. The volt meters are fine for gross management, and if you have periods where the batteries have been truly "at rest".
I put at 2 AGM group 31's behind the water heater/ and that area in my Tom Cat and the first 25. This one I sprung for the more expensive Li ion, because of the weight and volume, plus I have been itching to try one. Not practical if you want to combine all in one large bank. But using the Suzuki second charge circuit plus a dedicated 10 to 20 amp charger for the Li ion, it would work fine for refer/freezer combo. If you use the boat much and keep it for at least 8 years the economics work out closely. Solar can be easily adapted to the Li ion as well as AGM, but I would keep them separate if you go that way.
I put at 2 AGM group 31's behind the water heater/ and that area in my Tom Cat and the first 25. This one I sprung for the more expensive Li ion, because of the weight and volume, plus I have been itching to try one. Not practical if you want to combine all in one large bank. But using the Suzuki second charge circuit plus a dedicated 10 to 20 amp charger for the Li ion, it would work fine for refer/freezer combo. If you use the boat much and keep it for at least 8 years the economics work out closely. Solar can be easily adapted to the Li ion as well as AGM, but I would keep them separate if you go that way.
journey on
New member
So, Bob, you're on to LFP batteries for your 25? If so, I have some questions.
How many amp-hrs do you have? What are you using to charge them? What brand are they? How much do they weigh?
Here's a blog from someone who got LFP batteries back in 2011 (a rich one, I guess): LFP battery lessons. The person has several good lessons on lifetime vs temperatures, charging, discharge cycle, etc. Well worth reading.
And here is an explanation on how to balance a battery: battery balancing.
Boris
How many amp-hrs do you have? What are you using to charge them? What brand are they? How much do they weigh?
Here's a blog from someone who got LFP batteries back in 2011 (a rich one, I guess): LFP battery lessons. The person has several good lessons on lifetime vs temperatures, charging, discharge cycle, etc. Well worth reading.
And here is an explanation on how to balance a battery: battery balancing.
Boris
Hi Boris,
The link and another RVer who had Li Fo PO4 for a number of years is one I have followed for some time. I have also read a number of articles of others who have used them on boats and in solar installations.
The Li Fe PO4 battery does not have the risks of fire or explosion that some of the other Li ion batteries pose. They can be discharged 90% over 3000 cycles and still maintain 80% of capacity and have been discharged over 5000 cycles in some controlled environments.
I have "Battle Born" batteries. I dealt directly with the company and they answered all questions and were prompt in delivery.
100 Amp Hour, 12 Volt Battery
LiFePO4 Chemistry
3000- 5000 Cycles*
100 Amp Continuous Current
200 Amp Surge Current (30 Seconds)
1/2 second surge for higher loads
Drop in Replacement for Lead Acid Batteries
Acceptable Voltages 14.4 – 14.6 for bulk charging
10 Year Warranty
Designed and Assembled in the USA
12.75 x 6.875 x 9 (L x W xH)
29 lbs
These are internally balanced, and do not appear to have the requirement of annual re-balancing that the larger banks do.
I have been charging with the West Marine 30 amp charger using Anderson pole connectors for the bulk charge and A 10 AMP 12 volt charger from an Internet supplier (I don't have the brand handy right now) which is designed for higher voltage adsorption and float patterns. It has readout of both amps and volts on its screen. I monitor the system with a Victron 700 BM. I have used it only on the chest type refrigerator and freezer. I have isolated this battery and have a double pole on off on switch for the selection of the house bank or the Li ion battery to run the reefer/freezer.
The link and another RVer who had Li Fo PO4 for a number of years is one I have followed for some time. I have also read a number of articles of others who have used them on boats and in solar installations.
The Li Fe PO4 battery does not have the risks of fire or explosion that some of the other Li ion batteries pose. They can be discharged 90% over 3000 cycles and still maintain 80% of capacity and have been discharged over 5000 cycles in some controlled environments.
I have "Battle Born" batteries. I dealt directly with the company and they answered all questions and were prompt in delivery.
100 Amp Hour, 12 Volt Battery
LiFePO4 Chemistry
3000- 5000 Cycles*
100 Amp Continuous Current
200 Amp Surge Current (30 Seconds)
1/2 second surge for higher loads
Drop in Replacement for Lead Acid Batteries
Acceptable Voltages 14.4 – 14.6 for bulk charging
10 Year Warranty
Designed and Assembled in the USA
12.75 x 6.875 x 9 (L x W xH)
29 lbs
These are internally balanced, and do not appear to have the requirement of annual re-balancing that the larger banks do.
I have been charging with the West Marine 30 amp charger using Anderson pole connectors for the bulk charge and A 10 AMP 12 volt charger from an Internet supplier (I don't have the brand handy right now) which is designed for higher voltage adsorption and float patterns. It has readout of both amps and volts on its screen. I monitor the system with a Victron 700 BM. I have used it only on the chest type refrigerator and freezer. I have isolated this battery and have a double pole on off on switch for the selection of the house bank or the Li ion battery to run the reefer/freezer.
That is some serious next level coolness, Bob.
Cheers! :beer
When I realized I was going to have to replace the new house bat if I wanted to add an AGM, I looked at the LFP option too.
I compared the Renogy, Battle Born, and Mighty Max LiFePO4 batteries available on Amazon, and even BRIEFLY considered building my own out of about 300-400 ah of individual 3.2v cells (ecigs) I have in the garage.
The Battle Born was most expensive, but got the best reviews by far and was certainly the most responsive to their customers.
You chose wisely in my book.
So many questions, but that's for another day.
Today you've much bigger, category 4 concerns.
Hurricane season has decided not to go out with a whimper this year, and I hope all our friends in the panhandle and beyond keep safe.
Cheers! :beer
When I realized I was going to have to replace the new house bat if I wanted to add an AGM, I looked at the LFP option too.
I compared the Renogy, Battle Born, and Mighty Max LiFePO4 batteries available on Amazon, and even BRIEFLY considered building my own out of about 300-400 ah of individual 3.2v cells (ecigs) I have in the garage.
The Battle Born was most expensive, but got the best reviews by far and was certainly the most responsive to their customers.
You chose wisely in my book.
So many questions, but that's for another day.
Today you've much bigger, category 4 concerns.
Hurricane season has decided not to go out with a whimper this year, and I hope all our friends in the panhandle and beyond keep safe.
Welp, after several weeks of back and forth with the dealer and manufacturers, and several weekends of head-scratching, I think we can finally see some light at the end of the tunnel.
Here's the official diagram for the Blue Sea PN 8689 that is installed on our boat:
After cutting away what must have been $20 worth of zip-ties, and having to tear apart the distribution panel just to reveal the wires, under wires, under wires, I can confidently say that all we require is a jar of marinara sauce and the spaghetti bowl inside my battery and transom hatches will be ready for a sprinkle of parm.
I simplified the actual wiring for the diagram below to avoid confusion.
(One of the posts on a dual circuit switch has 6 different wires attached, and the retaining nut just barely gets on the post.)
Here's what I've finally mapped-out on our C-Shalom's nervous system:
So to sum up, both outboards are tied to each other on a common post that then goes thru one side of the switch to start battery #2.
This is its own circuit that's isolated from both ACRs, start battery#1, house battery, and shore charger, unless switched to the combine position.
Which means we've been drawing enough cranking amps from the single cheapest value-brand battery to start both outboards every time without noticing til now.
On the bright side, that sounds like it would make a pretty impressive advert for the battery mfg. :wink:
On the down side, I'll probably be replacing that poor battery next year... :cry
I didn't put that on the diagram yet to keep it readable, but you are absolutely right.
Not only are all 3 charger leads going to the ACRs, but one actually loops back on itself instead of going to the battery.
If I was a betting man, I'd have to bet that my TC was wired up on either early Monday morning or late Friday afternoon.
So, before I put this mess back together to get it back to the marina dry store for the week, I'd like to peck the collective c-brat mind.
1) What is the best way to rewire this?
The Blue Sea diagram looks like the most efficient and least complicated way to me.
2) Is there ANY reason I shouldn't completely scrap the factory and dealer wiring to follow the Blue Sea diagram?
3) Where should the shore power charger leads be hooked to the electrical system? (All I know is definitely not where they are now)
4) Since I probably have to disconnect and rewire everything, where would be the best place to wire in a solar charging system and one or two extra house batteries?
Any advice is appreciated.
Here's the official diagram for the Blue Sea PN 8689 that is installed on our boat:
Yeah, not so much anymore...thataway":2pm68oee said:
After cutting away what must have been $20 worth of zip-ties, and having to tear apart the distribution panel just to reveal the wires, under wires, under wires, I can confidently say that all we require is a jar of marinara sauce and the spaghetti bowl inside my battery and transom hatches will be ready for a sprinkle of parm.
I simplified the actual wiring for the diagram below to avoid confusion.
(One of the posts on a dual circuit switch has 6 different wires attached, and the retaining nut just barely gets on the post.)
Here's what I've finally mapped-out on our C-Shalom's nervous system:
So to sum up, both outboards are tied to each other on a common post that then goes thru one side of the switch to start battery #2.
This is its own circuit that's isolated from both ACRs, start battery#1, house battery, and shore charger, unless switched to the combine position.
Which means we've been drawing enough cranking amps from the single cheapest value-brand battery to start both outboards every time without noticing til now.
On the bright side, that sounds like it would make a pretty impressive advert for the battery mfg. :wink:
On the down side, I'll probably be replacing that poor battery next year... :cry
Yeah... I just had to quote that because I know you are way too modest to ever say I told you so. :lol:thataway":2pm68oee said:
I didn't put that on the diagram yet to keep it readable, but you are absolutely right.
Not only are all 3 charger leads going to the ACRs, but one actually loops back on itself instead of going to the battery.
If I was a betting man, I'd have to bet that my TC was wired up on either early Monday morning or late Friday afternoon.
So, before I put this mess back together to get it back to the marina dry store for the week, I'd like to peck the collective c-brat mind.
1) What is the best way to rewire this?
The Blue Sea diagram looks like the most efficient and least complicated way to me.
2) Is there ANY reason I shouldn't completely scrap the factory and dealer wiring to follow the Blue Sea diagram?
3) Where should the shore power charger leads be hooked to the electrical system? (All I know is definitely not where they are now)
4) Since I probably have to disconnect and rewire everything, where would be the best place to wire in a solar charging system and one or two extra house batteries?
Any advice is appreciated.
The second diagram is not going to work--at least well.
Why are you not using the Aux charging circuit of the engines?
I would have a start battery for each engine. Then the aux charging circuit to the house batteries.
Too many complicated switches--and VSR... Which are great if you don't have the aux charging circuits.
Battery charger: Pronautic 1220 output: one to each of engine start and one to the house bank. That charger is "smart" and will send proper charge to each of the batteries as needed.
I may be missing something. But try and keep it as simple as possible. If you want a separate bank for an inverter or freezer, etc--then use the VCR / VSR for that bank.
I bought a smaller RV last week--first thing I did was pull out the 2 group 24 house bank and put in 2 AGM Golf carts--that alone doubled my house bank capacity. I'll probably put in a Pronautics 1250 for a charger. The engine has a 200 amp alternator, with dual out puts. one goes to engine start and the other to house bank. I'll monitor use with a Victron 700. Only switches are a monetary solenoid combine and on/off high capacity switch for each bank of batteries. [Start and House]
Why are you not using the Aux charging circuit of the engines?
I would have a start battery for each engine. Then the aux charging circuit to the house batteries.
Too many complicated switches--and VSR... Which are great if you don't have the aux charging circuits.
Battery charger: Pronautic 1220 output: one to each of engine start and one to the house bank. That charger is "smart" and will send proper charge to each of the batteries as needed.
I may be missing something. But try and keep it as simple as possible. If you want a separate bank for an inverter or freezer, etc--then use the VCR / VSR for that bank.
I bought a smaller RV last week--first thing I did was pull out the 2 group 24 house bank and put in 2 AGM Golf carts--that alone doubled my house bank capacity. I'll probably put in a Pronautics 1250 for a charger. The engine has a 200 amp alternator, with dual out puts. one goes to engine start and the other to house bank. I'll monitor use with a Victron 700. Only switches are a monetary solenoid combine and on/off high capacity switch for each bank of batteries. [Start and House]
journey on
New member
JMacLeod,
I'm looking at your latest schematic and while I can make a couple of assumptions as to what you have, I'd rather find out for certain. So here are some questions on your diagram.
1. I assume that the ellipse containing a circle with the engine outputs as inputs and leading to the main part of the diagram is just a tie point.
2. You have two blocks in the middle with 1,1,2,2 with various lines leading in and out. Are these blocks switches? If so, how do they make connections, i.e. what are the various states that the switch can provide? R1 to L1 while R2 connects to L2? Does it have a dial or switch levers. I ask, because the switches provided on my C-Dory 25 have a single input and two separate outputs with a rotary dial allowing either 1 or 2 outputs to be connected to the input or both. So I'm unsure as to what you've shown.
Boris
I'm looking at your latest schematic and while I can make a couple of assumptions as to what you have, I'd rather find out for certain. So here are some questions on your diagram.
1. I assume that the ellipse containing a circle with the engine outputs as inputs and leading to the main part of the diagram is just a tie point.
2. You have two blocks in the middle with 1,1,2,2 with various lines leading in and out. Are these blocks switches? If so, how do they make connections, i.e. what are the various states that the switch can provide? R1 to L1 while R2 connects to L2? Does it have a dial or switch levers. I ask, because the switches provided on my C-Dory 25 have a single input and two separate outputs with a rotary dial allowing either 1 or 2 outputs to be connected to the input or both. So I'm unsure as to what you've shown.
Boris