lazarette on port side

Don-

I was just asking that question to see if any of the water inside the box was anything other than condensation, which it might be if salt were getting into it. It's my position that it's just condensation and there's not much one can do about it other than to put in another drain and ventilation system which could minimize it.

Joe.
 
Joe,
My boat has been stored all winter through many freeze thaw cycles and large temperature extremes. The port lazarette lid was kept closed and the bottom drain plug out. It is stored under cover. Recently when I started my spring projects it had no moisture in it. I think, at least in my case, it leaks around the lid seal because the lid has a slight warp and the design of the sealing channel forms a trough which will hold quite a bit of water.
Joel,
I also hate to change out the hatch, but I can't come up with another idea to get a good seal. I also expect that the hatch was well sealed down and will not be easy to remove.
 
We think it is rainwater leaking in around the hatch (maybe a small amount of condensation also) -- but mostly rainwater. So, live with it or figure a way to keep out the water ... thus far, we've lived with it, but if you guys come up with a good easy solution we'll sure adopt it.
 
My port side laarette leaks, not the starboard. My port side lazarette has vent holes for wiring underneath. It leaks from the top, consistently from rain or occasionally from spray. Factory says not much they can do as the hatches are good quality. There was a thread about acquiring some new gasket material, not sure if that would work or not as it happens on pretty new boats.

Now why only the port side? Does anyone have the opposite side leak or both sides leak? And if anyone has experimented into a solution it would be welcome.

Regards,
 
Joel,
Where did you find the hatches online? I would like to see what they look like and can not get anywhere with google and bomar hatches.

Thanks,
Steve
 
The new style hatches are listed on the Pompanette LLC website... (Bomar)
They are called access hatches.. toward the end of the listing of the different sizes .... called G781222 list price is $52
I don't think they were available when our boats were produced...they are brand new and I suspect that they were introduced to correct the leak problem...
Maybe C-Dory will convert their future production boats to these new hatches, and offer us discunts on replacement hatches.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
A good set of hatches would go a long way towards making the system liveable. I know spray and rain deliver a lot of the water to the lazarette, but still believe that there is some condensation in there even when there's no rain or spray, and that w/o some good ventilation, we'll always have some water in there.

My older boat even has different lids than those that were used up until the most recent switch.

I'll have to check out the size of the inspection and access hatches available to see which ones might be usable on the older boat.

Still would like some positive ventilation as well, though!

Need to design some solar powered fan system to move air through them during the day that would itself be weatherproof.

Joe.
 
I don’t have a lazarette on my boat, so I am just guessing about a solution for those of you that have warped hatches.

To take the warp out, glue a wooden strip (cedar will work good, it is not susceptible to warping) on the bottom side of your lid, as in my drawing below. Don’t know how the latch works, so you may have to notch the middle of the piece glued on, for the latch to slide through. If a long stiffener will not work because of the design of the lit and latch assembly, maybe two short ones on the short sides will work.
hatch.gif
 
Oldgrowth,
I had thought of trying to pull the corners back into alignment with a similar system. But the underside of the hatch is ribbed with about 5/8" thin plastic ribs. The actual top is very thin and depends on the ribbing for stability. Would be tough if not impossible to glue. Also not sure if glue would adhere to the plastic.
 
Bomar must know it leaks and their answer to the problem is to introduce a new access hatch that covers the groove so any moisture runs off the lid rather than into the lazerette..... I think the only true answer to stoping the leak it to replace the hatch with the "New Improved" unit.... kinda galls me to pay $52 each for the cure....

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Cutting the 5200 is not a problem.... some monofilament fishing line will cut through that stuff fairly easy... and I probably will do it...

I think we all should protest to Bomar... they obviously know it was defective if we all have the same problem....it's not C-Dorys problem... they put the best available on our boats... and when our boat were built the "new" hatches were not available...
 
I've got the REALLY OLD hatch covers- HDPE plastic C-Dory made doors inset in the fiberglass hull top with recessed groves for the doors and gaskets! (cira 1987)

Will probably have to order hatches larger than the whole molded in recesses and have the new hatches cover everything.

Will have the choice of simply covering over the entire opening intact or cutting a new hole larger than the old.....?

If I decide to cut, it could be with a ........

1.Saber saw? 2. Roto-Zip tool? 3. Pneumatic die grinder/cut off tool?
4. Sawsall? 5. Suggestions???

Joe.
 
This is primarily intended for those of you have an older model 22 like mine ('87) just to share possible solutions.)


I went up to the lake today to vist the boat and look at the lazarette and measure it for hatch replacement on my '87 cruiser with the old style hatches.

I was surprised to find out the hatches are:

1. Much larger than I remember- 12'W x 15'L + 1/4 inch extra clearance between lids and recesses.

2. Almost completely filling the top of the lazarette surface area to the edges- no room to add larger hatch with lip seal.

3. So placed that I will have to work with existing lids.

4. Set up with recessed rubber seal with faulty cut outs in corners that can be at least partially sealed with silicone, which I did.

5. Probabaly able to be sealed more tightly by replacing the faulty latches with a tight latch of some type-- I have a sliding type door latch of aluminum alloy intended for Dutch doors that may be workable.

6. Can probably drill hole lower in the standpipe base and threaded collar around entrance/drain tube with a small diameter drill to drain locker (live well) more throughly without destroying threads or seal. I want to drain this good during storage, even though it's flooded during some types of usage.

7. Still believe condensation will be a problem, but I can add a baffled ventilator tube or simply prop the hatch open somewhat during storage to dry the area out more throughly between uses.

8. If necessary, a solar fan could be added to the lid to aid in drying out the chamber

9. I'll also investigate the possibility of adding a second overlapping seal around the edges of the existing lids.

I'll take this step by step, (the conservative approach), adding each modification one at a time and then checking the progress before going on to the next one.

I'll keep you posted from time to time.

Joe.
 
SEA3PO":20v74ll0 said:
Bomar must know it leaks and their answer to the problem is to introduce a new access hatch that covers the groove so any moisture runs off the lid rather than into the lazerette..... I think the only true answer to stoping the leak it to replace the hatch with the "New Improved" unit.... kinda galls me to pay $52 each for the cure....

Joel
SEA3PO
Click to expand...

Before this thread is lost to antiquity, Joel, can you tell me the model number of the new improved unit? Is it the same hole size as the existing ones?

And also, those of you who were intending to pressurize your lazarette to determine where it leaks, what have you learned?

TX
Al
 
And I always thought those were uninsulated on board beer coolers.... :beer Neat read..... maybe Factory Guy Jeff M & Bomar could do a batch purchase..... We do gathering sign up list.... guess the owners of the older not improved hatches could sign up for a "yes -want new hatches" gathering...? Of course it is the guys who do not have to do any of the work that come up with these brainstorms... :idea :smileo
 
Why not test the leaky gasket theory before ordering new hatches? A job for old reliable rocket tape (duct tape, duck tape, or whatever you want to call it). Seal the edges, seal the latch, let it rain or pour water over it and check for leaks.
 
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