Leaky Cockpit Hatches in C-Dory 25' Cruiser
- Thread starter dread
- Start date
Start with this one I guess
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=13378
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=13378
25 hatches, to my knowledge, still leak and always have. I've seen some home-designed fixes which all incorporate some sort of "truss" placed on the underside of the hatches to discourage the curving that causes the leaks. That and thicker seals installed. Haven't done it myself, but the bilge is always so wet, it's an experiment in mold/mildew down there.
The design is just inherently bad to begin with.
The design is just inherently bad to begin with.
The link MartyP gave is for the Lazarette on the 22's. The 25's have been a problem. There are some aluminum hatches which can be retrofitted--expensive, and may not be as flush--plus a fair amount of work. I agree, it will still probably be wet there even with good hatches...
Matt Gurnsey
New member
I've often wondered if some additional ventilation for the bilge would help with the moisture problems, and help prevent mold.
Matt,
The 2003 25 we owned (and rebuilt the cockpit floor on)--had a grid like system, and we considered rebuilding it--and putting in good water tight hatches--such as BOMAR Flush Watertight Cast Aluminum Hatch
Model # 10791846 Manuf. # C41524-H (at $1079 each) We didn't have time and didn't think the cost would be worth it, to get dry compartments. The construction of girds keeps circulation or air down.
The 2003 25 we owned (and rebuilt the cockpit floor on)--had a grid like system, and we considered rebuilding it--and putting in good water tight hatches--such as BOMAR Flush Watertight Cast Aluminum Hatch
Model # 10791846 Manuf. # C41524-H (at $1079 each) We didn't have time and didn't think the cost would be worth it, to get dry compartments. The construction of girds keeps circulation or air down.
I installed an aluminum brace on one of our 2005 hatches and it helped to straighten the curve significantly. It did not make the hatch waterproof of course. One way to avoid filth in the bilge is to keep the cockpit dry with a huge camperback and leave a bulkhead hatch plus one small round hatch in the side step open when not in use. That worked for us and only some basic wiping with paper towels and simple green a couple of times in two years kept it clean and dry enough down there to use for storage of a variety of gear.
A solar vent combined with some minimal method of air intake would likely do wonders but where to put them would be a tougher choice. Maybe a weather resistant solar vent on the wall of the splashwell or in hatchcover and clamshell intake out of the way closer to the cabin side.
A solar vent combined with some minimal method of air intake would likely do wonders but where to put them would be a tougher choice. Maybe a weather resistant solar vent on the wall of the splashwell or in hatchcover and clamshell intake out of the way closer to the cabin side.
Matt Gurnsey
New member
localboy":23bapb5a said:
Wel, at least you can donate the boat to science when you're gone.
Or maybe contact a local university to see if they want to conduct experiments on mold in the bilge.... :roll:
One of the previous 3 owners of our 07 25 must have attached aluminum bracing to the lazarette floor hatches; of course they still leak. I was thinking of trying the plastic wrap seal and release calking trick. What I would do is clean and dry the lower gaskets really good, wipe down with acetone to enhance bonding. Apply copious amounts of 4200 quick cure alone the outsides of the gaskets. Then cover the whole area with plastic wrap; close the lid and latch.
The plastic wrap will allow separation after the calking cures, could be a little messy. I would also smear plumber’s silicon paste on any area you don’t want the calk to adhere to... If it’s done right all the gaps around the hatch should be flush with the deck after cleanup and trimming off the excess.
Not sure if 4200 is the best fit for this, blue Permatex form-a-gasket might be a better choice. In that case I would remove the old gasket entirely. Any ways, that’s the basic idea. I suppose you could use plumber’s silicon paste as a releasing agent instead of plastic wrap.
Just some thoughts..
The plastic wrap will allow separation after the calking cures, could be a little messy. I would also smear plumber’s silicon paste on any area you don’t want the calk to adhere to... If it’s done right all the gaps around the hatch should be flush with the deck after cleanup and trimming off the excess.
Not sure if 4200 is the best fit for this, blue Permatex form-a-gasket might be a better choice. In that case I would remove the old gasket entirely. Any ways, that’s the basic idea. I suppose you could use plumber’s silicon paste as a releasing agent instead of plastic wrap.
Just some thoughts..
colbysmith
Active member
In another thread somewhere, I can't find it now, I mentioned that my hatch was leaking and I couldn't figure out how to tighten the latch mechanism. Well this evening I figured it out. Had to get a flashlight on the problem. Once I was able to actually see the thing, I found there is a small plastic cap on top of the screw that holds the latch together. This is on the inside of the boat. Once I found the screw, I was able to tighen it up. It was pretty loose, so I'm hoping that was the problem. Guess I'll find out with the next solid rain. Colby
Look closely, and you can see the screw that was hidden by a small plastic cap inside the latch.
Look closely, and you can see the screw that was hidden by a small plastic cap inside the latch.
Good job Colby,
We also had a very small leak from our forward berth hatch. Once I found that small black screw after removing the plastic cover hiding it and tightening the screw a bit, the leak stopped. Once the screw is tightened just a little bit, the handle feel is more firm and the securing of the hatch will have more resistance as it is locked. This adjustment will pull the hatch down more firmly on the gasket seal. Problem solved!
We also had a very small leak from our forward berth hatch. Once I found that small black screw after removing the plastic cover hiding it and tightening the screw a bit, the leak stopped. Once the screw is tightened just a little bit, the handle feel is more firm and the securing of the hatch will have more resistance as it is locked. This adjustment will pull the hatch down more firmly on the gasket seal. Problem solved!
journey on
New member
If you're talking about the hatches in the cockpit floor, here's how I solved the problem. As said above, they are ~1/2 in above the floor, but they keep the bilge dry.
Installing Cockpit hatches
Boris
Installing Cockpit hatches
Boris