Lewmar Pro Series 700 install.

N

NancyandBud

New member
After considering all of the comments in my previous thread,I went purchased the horizontal windlass

I've read most of the threads here regarding the installation.

One remaining question is regarding the large cutout for the chain.

There have been different opinions about how to handle this area. One is that you just cut out the deck, remove the core within some fraction of an inch, fill it with epoxy. Others have suggested the whole area be filled with epoxy and then the new hole drilled in the new area.

The other question is either a backing plate or washers.

Thoughts?

PS Darn, this thing is heavy! :lol:

PPS Chain to fit this windlass is much more expensive that chain I bought for our sailboats! Particularly in light of the fact that I like a lot of chain for many different reasons, one being able to sleep at night. :thup
 
Either way will accomplish the same thing. I did this and ended up cutting my hole, excavating a little core and then filling just that excavation back in with epoxy. I think this is more than adequate, but you certainly could make a whole plug and then cut it out again. Seems like a hassle to me, but maybe someone else might think it's easier.

I had a thick aluminum plate made for underneath and had a cleat welded on there and a couple tabs to hold shackles. I can cleat my rode down from the cabin and secure the anchor without heading up onto the deck. Ill take some pics.

If you don't have the hole in the deck drilled, you most likely don't have an anchor locker drain either. I used a small perko fuel vent. It has the clamshell and a tube that will penetrate the way in and lock down with a nut. When you are drilling out the tube you have to be VERY VERY CAREFUL not to drill through a strake. Your clamshell needs to be either all the way above, or all the way below the strake that is right there. Don't drill through the strake! You won't be able to seat the clamshell. I thought it would be good to get the drain as low as possible so I put mine just below the strake, but I belive most from the factory are drilled just above the strake.
 
Question: Do you have an anchor roller (or launcher as some call it) on the bow already? If so, does it have backing plate of some sort under it? If not, Great. Then you can back the whole thing with one good piece of something. A piece of starboard, or a polyethylene cutting board, or a substantial piece of plywood or a piece of stainless plate. What ever the backing, I would then use fender washers, and a regular washer over that.

I would shy away from the aluminum plate because you are going to use stainless bolts, nuts and washers for the mounting, and my preference would be to not use dissimilar metals.

I like the idea of the welded on tabs and cleats. Good idea to be able to secure the rode from below.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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It's very similar, but the one I used had no black, plastic shroud. I used a grinder to remove the hose barb and secured it in 5200 and used the included nut on the inside. I also tapped the inside for a plug in case I wanted to seal it for whatever reason.

The point about dissimilar metals is quite well taken. The aluminum is drilled to allow bolt clearance and bolts are coated in 5200. It's true this isn't idea, however it's very commonly done and doesn't make too many issues if done properly. Especially above the waterline. Aluminum and SS have their worst interactions under seawater with some current. I haven't even observed any oxidation or degradation of the bolts or plate, and the potential issue is easily resolved, and the benefit of being able to secure your anchor from the v berth were worth it to me. But your point is well taken, and the potential does exist for an issue there.
 
I understand that the windlass is generally not in salt water, so it may not be an issue. Sounds like you are taking precautions. I have no idea how many times my windlass has been totally covered in salt water. One day, in 15 miles, maybe a hundred times, Don't know but far too many to count. And that was just one day. And no, most days are not anywhere like that, but aside from that day I've got well over a dozen dunkings, and that doesn't count all the spray time either.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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It's certainly a potential issue, and just gives some tradeoffs. I have a hose right next to my slip, so my windlass gets rinsed every time I tie up. Plus we get a ton of rain. I wouldn't install it that way without incorporating the potential issue into maintenance.

you can also use a thin plastic sleeve to surround your bolt through the aluminum. I decided that was unnecessary, but some take that precautionary step. I also kow of people who wrapped the section of the bold adjacent to the aluminum in electrical tape, and others who have simply coated the bolt in grease.

I have a stainless eye bolt threaded into the aluminum housing on my line hauler, and it stays perfectly happy (so far!) slathered in grease.
 
For the C Dory 22, no reason to core the entire area. I have just used fender washers in most cases, with the core cut out around the holes, filled with thickened epoxy.

As for the type of backing plate--any wood crushes, but it is better than nothing. I prefer not to put that type of load on a thin high density polypropylene material.

I have used aluminum on cruising sailboats with 10,000s of thousands of miles in all salt water, and no major issues with the aluminum and SS bolts. The secret-is that the bolts should not leak! When I used the aluminum in the larger boats, I used 1/2" aluminum, of a non corrosive series, and fender washers under the nuts.

For the average C Dory the fender washers are fine. (Although I have used 1/4" aluminum plate in one of my C Dorys).
 
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