Lines and fenders advice

[South of Heaven]

This time around I wanna buy the proper lines for my boat. Last year I had all mismatched, hand me downs on the 16 that the P.O left on the boat. All junk.

What should I buy? Lengths? Purposes?

I just bought 4 brand new fenders from Bass Pro Shops.

 

[bridma]

First off get 3/8" rode. 1/4" is to light and 1/2" is generally to big for our cleats on a 22 cruiser. You need a minimum of 4 docklines, 6 is better. Mine are about 16' long. If you keep your boat in the water, have permanent lines on the dock. Much easier when returning home. Just grab the rope and hook on to your cleat. I also carry 300' of rode for a stern line. Very useful in the PNW. Can also be used as a tow rope in emergency. I carry 35' 1/4" high test anchor chain and 250' 3/8"anchor rode.
My spare anchor is 25' chain and 180' rode. Stored under the v-berth. Small bag of odds & ends, always seems to come in handy as well.

Martin.

 

[hardee]

For dock line I prefer braided for a better hand, and lay. (Fewer kinks and good stretch.) I would agree, you want as large as what you can fit into your cleats. My preference is 1/2" for the stern lines and the bow line is 3/4" braided nylon. The bow line is long enough to reach around the side, but just short of the distance to get to one of the props. The stern lines are long enough to reach the bow. I carry the bow line fixed at the bow and with a chain slip tie to the handle on the cabin bulkhead, so I can pick it up and step off the gunnel and the line slips from the handle. The stern lines are looped and in the gunnel pocket so I can pick that up as I step off, giving me both ends of the boat controlled at the same time.

The fender lines are 1/2", braided, with a loop for the fender and a knot on the bitter end. They are rigged for single handing and I can deploy or retrieve in less than 1 min.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[Will-C]

I would spring for the braided line. 1/2 inch gets my vote. I like fenders at least 8" with thru holes so you can also tie them horizontal to pilings. a couple 24" round ball fenders for special situations. I'd have at least two lines that are longer than your boat. That way you can use one line to create a spring line for the fore and the same after tying to the mid cleat then going aft. The other long line for the mid cleat going to the dock to hold the boat off the side tie bumpers if wind is pushing you beam to to the dock which can be a very squeaky situation. I'd have one 35' for a bow line when you launch in crazy ramp situations with out floating docks etc. Making a couple of wooden dowels with stainless steel eye bolts for the rod holders in the stern to keep the stern protected. JMHO here.
D.D.

 

[Will-C]

 

[Will-C]

 

[South of Heaven]

Thanks.

 

[Sunbeam]

As you are no doubt noticing: Ten sailors, ten preferences on dock lines

I like nylon three-strand. But then that's because I find it easy to splice, and it works well. I buy high quality line and think it has a nice hand; but even amongst the good brands, I find that I prefer some over others (can't remember which right now though). But then the other reasons for other types listed above are also valid.

Also I think a lot depends on how and where you boat. I have a friend who boats from/to one slip and one slip only. Not only are his lines pre-cut for his slip, he sometimes leaves them there (which seems freaky to me, but works fine for him). I end up in all kinds of different places, so I like a variety of lines that can do multiple things, and can't imagine leaving them behind. I have found that I like a set of 3/8" lines aboard. I started out with (and still have) a set of 1/2" dock lines, but also made up a set of two 50' 3/8" lines for use at Powell (shore ties for anchoring stern to the beach). Those came in handy for many other purposes, and because they are a little smaller to stow, I now carry two more longer lengths of 3/8" line as well. I have used them as supplementary dock lines (since at that point I have a "web" of lines out, I don't mind if some of them are 3/8").

I copied Will-C and made two wooden "batons" for the fishing rod holders that are just ahead of my fuel fills on the gunwale, and I hang the aft fenders from there. That way they can't roll around the stern, they don't take up space on a cleat, and the line doesn't touch the gelcoat. Very handy and worthy of copying - thanks Will-C. (I just made a hole through the baton near the top and pull the fender whip through and tie a knot to keep it in place - that way I can vary the length if I want to.)

 

[westward]

I also like braided, something like New England Ropes double braided. I would suggest a pair of 25' lines for port/starboard bow lines, and a pair of 15' lines for stern, with an additional 25' backup line for towing/rescue/emergency situations, which could be something less expensive. I use 1/2" which is probably overkill. I prefer having the bow/stern in different colors so you can direct guest crew in lay language ("grab the white rope and get ready to step onto the dock"). I also like having the spliced eye live on the bow/stern cleat to which it is used, with some sort of easy, dedicated mid-ship attachment for the other end. This could be an additional cleat mounted on a vertical bulkhead, a dedicated cam cleat, a padeye for a snap, etc. Set this up to suit your most common docking use. You will get great joy out of devising systems which are as simple, practical, functional, and intuitive as possible; use your boat a bit before drilling any holes. I also favor having fenders semi-permanently attached or quickly and easily attachable to dedicated points, preferably not to cleats in such a way as to crowd the cleat with multiple lines. An example on your boat might be: install a robust padeye (with interior backing) on the exterior cabin side wall above your engine control. Then install a clip on the whip of your midship fender so the fender hangs at the proper mooring height. (2 clips if you commonly use 2 dock heights). On approach, you can deploy the midship fender through your sliding window by clicking the snap to the padeye. Many variations and only one rule: have fun customizing your boat! Regards, Mike.

 

[bridma]

Small typo on my earlier post. My anchor rode is 1/2", not 3/8". Bow cleat is plenty big enough to take 1/2". My dock lines are 3/8" because each cleat often accommodates two lines at the same time and 1/2" fills them up a bit quick.

Martin.

 

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

I've met several boaters who set their slip up in this manner but they also carry a full array of dock lines aboard. Personally I prefer to have my lines secured to the boat and the free end to hand.

The practise of "dropping dock lines" is common on transient walls. This conveys the message to other boaters and marina staff that the boat plans to return.

Regards, Rob