mildew inside the cabin

S

Stan Major

New member
I keep the boat covered to keep out rain. I have 2 containers of damp rid inside and I still get a build up of mildew. I repainted the inside once and it was perfectly white. Any suggestions for getting rid of these mildew stains and preventing them in the future?
 
I am not a big fan of the Damp Rid. I use a "mighty Dry" electric dehumidifier. But good air circulation is also important.

Use one of the chlorox cleaners to start with. Then the Mr clean white pads if that does not work. I have several "marine mold removers"--and the Chlorox seems to work as well.
 
For prevention, increase air flow using a fan and temperature (light bulb), remove cushions and other textile items, remove other items, consider adding vent rain shields to port windows, and keep interior drawers and doors open. I like hot soapy water with a little bleach. Clean an area, allow to remain wet for ten minutes or more to kill mold and mildew, dry with a clean towel.

You have not need a light bulb with a good fan and in Florida.

Is your cover breathable ?

Where is it stored? Inside or outdoors. If outside, park it so the sun will keep it warm during days.

Is the bow higher than stern to allow water shedding?

Clean both sides of the cover

Is it parked under or near trees?
 
Yes it is hot and humid here in Florida. The boat is on a trailer in the driveway, in the sun, under some tall trees. Really the only place I have to park it. Was using a heavy canvas cover but switched to a lighter plastic tarp. Last time I tried bleach, I probably did not leave it on the surface long enough. Thanks for the advice.
 
I would think that a fabric cover might be better than plastic, something like a tent that will shed water yet still breath, allowing air circulation is an important factor.
 
I agree with the "canvas" and ventilation. There are many ways to ventilate. My C dory had the Sunbrella cover, but there are openings at both ends, so the breeze can go thru. The Caracal, (No cabin) has one of the "silver poly" tarps, and it also has openings at each end for the breeze to blow thru.

You want to clean the inside so that there are no organic particles (such as oil, finger prints, food, etc, which can act as a midas for the mold to begin. Any old mold should be carefully cleaned, and then the area sprayed, with a mold retardant. Concrobium makes, "Mold Control" which I have used to prevent grown, by leaving a thin coating on susceptible surfaces.
 
For getting rid of it I second the vote for Tilex. Even better is ZEP Mold and Mildew Remover from Home D. Same stuff, 1/3 the price.
 
Stan,

You are getting every recommendation I would make. The key thing is to kill the mold spores, dead, with whatever product you pick, with ordinary bleach, perhaps cut 1/3 strength as good as any, but the fumes are toxic and you should use an organic vapor mask as well as durable nitrile gloves. If there are spores under existing paint, they will come up through it, many cases.

Once the spores are dead, new paint will help precent a recurrence ... provided there is no food source, per Bob's remarks. Heat and ventilation are more effective than the various dry air chemicals, because their water removal capacities are very limited, and they are soon overtaxed in most situations.

Porous surfaces are the devil to disinfect, with highly porous items such as canvas and other fabrics usually better thrown away in lieu of cleaning, unless cleaning occurs frequently.

Mold is pernicious stuff.
 
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