Motor position when trailering.

T

Tully-B

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C Dory Year
2008
C Dory Model
25 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Tully-B
Greetings all, I would love to hear some thoughts on what position the motor should be in and how it should be supported when trailering. Recently, I heard three different thoughts on how this should be done. Thanks, Lee
 
Might depend slightly on the make/model. On my Yamaha 80 they say to trailer in the upright position if possible (in other words, same position as you would have it when motoring). On my setup, that would put it too close to the road, so I tilt it (also acceptable). However they specify to NOT support it on the tilt lever, or just on the hydraulics when trailering. So that means some method of support. I use a rubber wedge called an M/Y Wedge. I had to customize it somewhat to fit the engine, but now it seems to work well. I've also seen a piece of wood used to good effect (and think they work well), but the bracket on my engine seems to defy that.

Some people used a bar to the trailer. I can't use one as my trailer is too far under the transom. I have heard that can be an issue of the trailer and boat move independently, but have never tried one.
 
Sunbeam":3dkq7f5n said:
Some people used a bar to the trailer. I can't use one as my trailer is too far under the transom. I have heard that can be an issue of the trailer and boat move independently, but have never tried one.
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same with mine. I have known a lot of bass fishermen supporting even bigger motors on smaller boats (it seems) by using the trailer 'transom saver' bar or what have you.
 
I have a 150 HP Honda on a 25 C-Dory. Not much much clearance, however, I do trailer it in the down position (same position as when the boat is in the water and under power). Not much clearance (about 8 inches) so far, no problem. I do stop and raise the motor at some locations such as a RR crossing. No place on the trailer that I could hook a support to. I will think out the partial up position with some kind of support. Thanks for the comments. Lee
 
P1010925.jpg


This what we use, worked well for 30k + miles cheap to do
D.D.
 
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Here's a picture with the couple of links of chain cord, and retention clip to keep it from flying away more pic's in Will-C's album under trailer mods.
D.D.
 
We use an "Engine Tilt Trailering Support" device from the Yamaha folks for the 115-hp Yamaha on our Venture 23.

This device can be seen at http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Engine_Support_p/mar-mtspt-ym-10.htm .

Costs a bit over $50 but has worked great for us in our fairly limited trailering. We do leave the much smaller Yamaha 8 hp H/O kicker up supported by the tilt lever.

Take care,
Dan, Tanya, and Hannah on C-Renity
 
ddenver":3baf79od said:
We use an "Engine Tilt Trailering Support" device from the Yamaha folks for the 115-hp Yamaha on our Venture 23.

This device can be seen at http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Engine_Support_p/mar-mtspt-ym-10.htm .

Costs a bit over $50 but has worked great for us in our fairly limited trailering. We do leave the much smaller Yamaha 8 hp H/O kicker up supported by the tilt lever.

Take care,
Dan, Tanya, and Hannah on C-Renity
Click to expand...

Direct LINK

MAR-MTSPT-YM-10-2T.jpg
MAR-MTSPT-YM-10-3T.jpg


Still and all, I'll take the obvious carpeted 2/4 mentioned above by Dave/Will-C, but primarily based on cost alone (Cheapo Solution!)
Bill and El used it on their twin 40's for years without problems, so it definitely works.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I've used the wood version but have a length of 1 1/2" PVC pipe in there now.
 
Logic would dictate that the information you are looking for would be in the engines's manufacture manual. But then again, that might not be too helpful, judging from some peoples experiences. Fortunately for my little twins, a couple of pieces of construction site waste fit perfectly, and have worked for 6 years.

If you have 8" ground clearance, that should be pretty adequate. Still have to be careful about driveways and curbs.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I had issues with motor support on the trailer until I bought a Honda tilt control rod. Living in Boise means a lot trailer time, and after leaving a couple of blocks on the road, went to the rod. These worked well on both of our C-Dorys and both equipped with power tilt. On the water, I locate the rod in the very bottom holes in the transom bracket, and move to top holes for trailering. The bottom hole allows full power tilt travel, in the top I have never dragged the prop in 14 years of C-Dory ownership. The rod is easy to move around and is always right where you need it.
 
The main concern to me is if the skeg will clear driveways ramps ect. it all depends on the height of the trailer "clearance Clarence". Physics would suggest a down position would create less stress on the transom. I Keep mine down because my usual boat ramp every thing clears in the down position. The second reason I believe that water drains from the motor a little better and prevents icing when temps are cold. impellers don't like to work when iced up.
80% of the time my kicker is in the upright position as a result of the Capt. being lazy. I have yet to sweat about up or down. Long trailer rides I do put both down.

All that being said I have not to heard of a C-Dory transom cracking as a result of motor position. Low as you can safely go to clear obstructions is my recommendation. :wink:

Chris Bulovsky
Forgive the Leslie Nielsen Airplane reference
 
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