Mounting Teak Storage Boxes

S

Sarge

New member
I have a few teak storage boxes on order, which I want to mount on the counter behind the Wallas and on the shelves in my berth. The question I have is how best to mount these? I'm getting them because my recent 'green water' incident made me realize that I need to secure objects that I have on my counters. I want to make sure the objects and containers stay put!

I was born with 10 thumbs (not literally :disgust ) , so I don't have much experience working with wood. How have others attached these boxes? Fast Cure 5200 with screws? Just screws? Just 5200? Gorilla glue stated that Teak in not a good wood to glue with it since Gorilla glue needs water to set.

I'm all ears and eyes.....(not literally :disgust )

Thanks in advance,
 
Carl,

I have storage boxes on the counter behind the stove on Valkyrie which I just screwed into the teak trim on the side of the cabin. They hold just fine.

I added oak blocks in the v-berth to hold hooks that support storage hammocks. I used West System epoxy with their micro-balloon filler to make a consistency of peanut butter. After postioning the blocks, I held them in place with duct tape until the epoxy set.

Hope this helps. (Pictures in our album)

Nick
"Valkyrie"
 
Nick,

Thanks for the advice.

I'm not sure I have those teak trim strips behind my stove. I need to look the next time I go to the boat.

When it comes to the epoxy - I tried to find 'micro balloons' on West Marine's site but I couldn't locate them. I did find this: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... artial/0/0
Do you think these would work, if I used the fast hardener and applied pressure?

BTW, you have the same storage container I do behind your Wallas.

Thanks again,
 
Carl,

Get the Handy Repair Pack from West Marine. It has the high density filler that you need to make the bond work better.

I would also recommend scoring the teak with a sharp screw driver or drilling small holes in the back of the teak before applying the epoxy. This gives the epoxy something to "grab onto" for a stronger bond.

When you mix in the high density filler, be sure to add enough, slowly at first, to give it the consistency of peanut butter. This will almost hold it to the hull by itself. However, using duct tape to hold it in place will insure that you won't come back to check on it later and find that the teak has fallen off and become one with the v-berth cushion!

If you are bonding something heavier than the light wood blocks that I did, you might want to explore other ways to hold it in place before leaving it.

Whenever I epoxy anything, I remove objects from below the area to be glued or cover the area with plastic or newspaper. Once it dries, it's there for keeps.

Consider buying one of the West Systems Six Packs. It has enough of everything, including filler, epoxy, hardener, plastic cups and sticks for mixing for six small repairs. It's a must-have item on our boat, in our camper and other places.

Good luck!

Nick
"Valkyrie"
 
I like to use my extendable boat hook for holding things in place while drying. Just extend to right length and use the other side of the boat or bottom to brace against. 8)
 
"Great works are performed not by strength, but perseverance" (Samuel Johnson)

Or by Boat Hooks! (Steve on the Dora~Jean)

What a great idea! Thanks

Charlie
 
I also recommend thickened epoxy--I use Cabosil (fumed silica) and maybe some micro fibers--for thickening when gluing. Use acetone to remove surface oil in teak. I did destructive testing with both rescorinol (the best glue for teak)and epoxy on teak--The epoxy was just as good as the rescorinol, (this was a laminated rub rail with multiple thin strips, and a sharp radious. I ended up using the epoxy and at least 10 years later it was fine--varnish with UV inhibitors was used over the teak and epoxy).

Do not try and screw into the hull sides--they are thin. You run a good chance of going thru the side. I have used a very short screw, with epoxy and just a dimble drilled.

Be sure and grind off the surface gel coat in the area you are gluing to. There is wax in the gel coat--also clean it with dewaxer and acetone.

I almost always use 5 minute epoxy--West systems makes some nice little bottles of 1:1, which will last a lifetime of projects, and only costs a moderate amount more than the small tubes or syringes. Some times I will use 5 min plus regular thickened epoxy. You can hold the block or box in place until the 5 min sets off.

In the TC and CD 25, the aft bulkhead and bulkheads around the head (foreward and inboard) are cored, and you can put screws into them. Some times I will screw thru the hull, with 4200--from the outside--such as when puttin on camper canvas snaps--cut off the screw on the inside with a Dremel tool, and then put a small dab of almond silicone on the defect. This matches fairly well with the waxed gel coat which is sprayed on the interior of the C Dories.

Some people use 5200--if it works it is great--but there are occasions when it does not adhere quite as well.
 
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