Mystery electrical system problem - not sure how to proceed.

Hi all,

Thanks again for the great input! Just so you know, I've received a private message from another 22 owner (who doesn't have an electrical problem) who said he's gotten a lot out of reading the thread, and will be casting a critical eye on parts of his electrical system as a result. I was happy to hear that this "gold mine" of information isn't helping only me.

Today we pulled out of Lake Powell. Feels weird to be back on land: Wal-Mart (food), traffic....the full catastrophe :D

But back to the "exciting" news (ahem): We spent last night anchored out across from the ramp, and had Episode 4 in the saga, and then this morning Episodes 5 and 6. A veritable bonanza of clues :wink Although we have not found the source of the problem yet :cry. Tomorrow morning will be the massive boat washing/un-loading, and then we dive into the electrical.

Below I'm going to summarize all 6 "episodes," just so it's all laid out in one place. I also remembered a couple more details from the first time, which may help. But before that, I'll just say that none of the wiring on the boat looks at all corroded or "old." Now that said, it's nothing special in the "tidy and elegant" department (yet!), and there is obviously a problem (which I am determined to find), but basically overall it all looks fresh and clean.

So, back to the summary. I'll write a bit of "chatty stuff" about each time, and then summarize the facts so those who only want to read that part can skip the drivel ;)

Episode #1
After running around Lake Powell for three weeks in all types of conditions with no problems, one day about 10 days ago found us in a small, glassy pool area way back in a canyon. At first I drifted with the engine running in neutral, but soon I found that the boat would pretty much stay where she was anyway, so I shut the engine down and we decided to eat lunch while enjoying the silence and scenery. I left the VHF and GPS on, and my laptop may have been plugged in with the small inverter to the cigar lighter, but I can't remember for sure about that. Nothing else was on. After about five minutes we had begun to drift toward one wall, so I started the engine, reversed a hair, and then shut it off. The trim tab auto retractor ran (I now remember that it ran the full 15 seconds, and did not "cut off" early), and then after a moment when I looked back forward I noticed "hey, the instruments are all dark." I checked and the engine still started fine, and the engine-specific gauges worked. We looked and found the main (30 amp) fuse blown, and put in my spare one. We also decided to disable the trim tab auto retractor just in case, and because I found I didn't like it anyway. All then functioned great for 8 days of running around fast and slow, living aboard, and etc.

*********

Summary of Episode #1

After three weeks of cruising with no problem
Drifting in glass calm water
VHF on
GPS on
Laptop maybe plugged into cigar lighter
Started engine, reversed slightly, shut engine off
Trim tab auto retractors cycled fully
Shortly thereafter I noticed GPS and VHF were not on
Main 30 amp fuse was blown.
We put in spare 30-amp fuse
**********

Eight days later, on another glass calm day, we motored at hull speed for a couple of hours out of another deep canyon. Then we planed to a "potti island" (like a floating dock) and tied up. I shut down the engine but left the VHF, depth sounder, and GPS on. Buddy's phone/tablet were charging in the cigar lighter through a USB adapter plug.

We spent around 45 minutes on the dock, emptying the porta potti and then chatting with the maintenance fellow and his ride-along dogs there, whom we'd run into previously up-lake. Then I went aboard and got online to check weather and C-Brats (but computer was completely unconnected to boat and just running on its internal battery). A few minutes later my buddy said "Uh-oh.... the instruments are all dark." Nooo! Yep, the spare 30-amp main fuse was blown. That's when I started this thread. Then we traced each electrical item on the boat to its fuse and found the cigar lighter was not fused (everything else was). We replaced the cigar lighter socket with a new Blue Sea one I had aboard, put it on an unused slot on the fuse block with a 10-amp fuse (for now), and re-wired the main fuse to utilize a 20-amp blade fuse (knowing we would go easy on the draws).

************
Summary of Episode #2

Eight days after first one
Tied to a dock in glass calm water
Engine off (no more trim tab retractor as we had disabled it)
VHF on
GPS on
Depth sounder on
Phone/tablet plugged into cigar lighter
After an hour or so buddy noticed GPS/VHF/Depth sounder were not on
Main 30 amp fuse was blown.
Put in 20 amp fuse (spare)

**************

From the potti island we planed about 7 miles to our next anchorage. We didn't use the trim tabs although I did charge my laptop for a half hour or so. All went fine. It was a quiet night at anchor. The next morning I started the engine and backed into the beach so we could change props (testing a few of them on this trip). Shut off and tilted engine, changed prop. Then went out exploring and shortly thereafter did a WOT run. It was a glassy, windless day - perfect for a test. I used the trim tabs once - just set them for planing and then did my WOT run. WOT was not satisfactory, so I ran back to the beach, backed in, shut off engine and tilted it up, then shut off the depth sounder. Then we changed the prop. I had left the VHF/GPS on during this.

After the previous prop was back on (five minutes), I went to the helm and my buddy shoved us off. When we got to deeper water I trimmed the engine down, started it, and looked back to see the "pee stream" start as is my habit. Next I went to turn the depth sounder back on and saw.... no instruments. By now we were getting pretty quick at this, so I took a 15 amp fuse from the auto pilot slot on the fuse block and we put that in as the "main" fuse. By now we were not using anything that drew much -- no more tab use, retractors remained unhooked (and will stay that way as I don't favor them). Basically just running with instruments and engine.

**************
Summary of Episode #3
One day after second one
Shoved off beach in glass calm water
VHF had been left on
GPS had been left on
Tilted engine down and started it, watched for pee stream
Turned forward and reached to turn on depth sounder and... found all instruments were dark.
20-amp fuse was blown
Put in 15 amp fuse from autopilot (stock was running low!)
(Nothing was plugged in to new cigar lighter.)

***************
Then we ran around 30 miles back to the launch ramp area. It was not very windy, but (as anyone who has boated on this particular stretch probably remembers) it is a sort of "Maytag Straits." The walls are sheer rock and it's narrow, and it gets very rocky/rolly/bouncy due to reverberating boat wakes. We stayed up at about 12 knots, and definitely did our share of rocking and rolling (got waked pretty good two or three times). But we pressed on and all went fine. We stopped at the Wahweap store for (much appreciated!) food, and I went and got the tow vehicle from storage. In the evening (yesterday) we puttered across a quiet bay and anchored on yet another glass calm night. We had three things on: The GPS, the LED anchor light, and the trim tab indicator LED lights (they stay on by manufacturer design). After a couple of hours and another nice moonrise, we noticed "Gee, it seems kind of dark in here." Yep, the instruments and anchor light had gone dark. Three guesses why....

We robbed a 10-amp fuse from the cockpit spotlight slot and put that in as the main fuse, then kept the GPS and anchor light on. I couldn't see how it could be the trim tab relay (it is attached to the positive bus along with the helm feed wire), but just to be sure, I pulled its inline fuse. So no powered relay, and no LED indicator lights at helm. Then I just had to start sleuthing again. I remembered a mechanic friend telling me that sometimes you can notice things at night with a good flashlight that you cannot see during the day so I figured, why not look around now.

I traced the main helm feed wire from the fuse block behind the helm back to the positive bus. I could see it most of the way and it looked fine. There were a couple of places where it was in the middle of the wiring bundle, but I could not see anything there that could be getting in to disturb it. No cable ties, screws, etc. (Of course we'll be looking at it further, but this was just preliminary because I had to do something.)

I then traced the (not long) wire that leads from the positive bus to the main battery switch - that looked fine (and was new put in by me recently). I wiggled all the (new) wires around the main battery switch. I did find that that wire from the positive bus was slightly loose. I wiggled and pulled on it like mad while keeping my eye on the anchor light but nothing even flickered. Also I think if that did cause a problem it would not blow the main fuse anyway. I'll be tightening it after that whole switch/wires are looked over tomorrow. I then went behind the helm and looked over the fuse block, wiggled everything, looked for any negative wires that might be causing a short... didn't find anything. Went to bed and slept poorly; mentally started writing this post around 4 a.m. But the light/GPS stayed on all night with no further problem.

*****************
Summary of Episode #4
One day after third one
Anchored in calm seas.
GPS was on
LED anchor light was on
Trim tab indicator LED's were on
(Nothing was plugged in to new cigar lighter.)
After a few hours we noticed it had gotten "dark"
15-amp main fuse was blown
Put in 10 amp fuse
Removed fuse from trim tab relay, disabling relay and LED indicator lights
Left GPS and anchor light on
They stayed on all night.

****************

This morning we needed to "get rid of" some fuel, so we alternately planed and puttered around Wahweap Bay. We were running with just the GPS/VHF/Depth sounder. It was a sunny, glassy morning (I know, it sounds like it is glassy all the time, but we spent literally days - a few times - holed up for blows earlier on this trip). After a few hours we went over toward the beach and shut down the engine and drifted while we measured out and added Stabil to the fuel tanks. After we finished that I started the engine and noticed .... all the instruments were dark (groan). I didn't notice if the engine starting affected them or not, but just noticed shortly after the engine was running that they were off. We dug out a 10-amp fuse (from the cabin lights slot...) and set out to let the Stabil "mix in" (we were in sight of the ramp by now). I guess this means the trim tabs are off the list as they were completely disabled (their fuse was pulled last night and left out).

****************
Summary of Episode #5
One day after fourth one
Drifting in calm seas.
GPS was on
VHF was on
Depth sounder was on
Trim tab relay and LED indicators were completely disabled (fuse pulled)
(Nothing was plugged in to new cigar lighter.)
After re-starting the engine I noticed the instruments were dark.
10-amp main fuse was blown
Put in another 10 amp fuse.

******************
Now we shut down the main engine (still nice calm seas) and went to start the kicker to let it run to get the stabilized fuel into it, and then let it run out of fuel (will drain carbs later). I think we breathed on the handle (ha, enrichment circuit) because it would not start right away. I went to the helm to re-start the main engine but before I even turned the key I noticed.... yep, the instruments were off. Well this is getting old! We put in another 10 amp fuse and then buddy suggested disconnecting the ACR. Okay, sure, let's see if it blows again, in which case we can eliminate that.

**************
Summary of Episode #6
Same day as fifth one (today)
Drifting in calm seas.
GPS was on
VHF was on
Depth sounder was on
Trim tab relay and LED indicators were completely disabled (fuse pulled)
(Nothing was plugged in to new cigar lighter.)
Engine was off
Instruments went "dark" while engine off
10-amp main fuse was blown
Put in another 10 amp fuse.
Disconnected the ACR (automatic charging relay).

****************
After this we got the Honda started (operator error the first time), ran around on it for 20 minutes or so to get the stabilized fuel into it, then pulled the fuel line (and ran, and ran.... until it finally ran out of fuel). Then we re-started the main and went around a bit more, almost hoping for Episode #7 so we could eliminate the ACR, but finally we just had to retrieve - the ramp was starting to get busier and we wanted to get onto the trailer (and go get more food!). But... there was no episode #7 (yet).

Since we're going to be spending a couple of days getting the boat squared away, we decided to leave the GPS and VHF on for now (on the trailer), just to see if they would "blow" again. We left the ACR disconnected. I just looked.... instruments are still on....

After we get the boat cleaned/emptied and organized, then we'll start poring over the wiring (including that pesky helm feed) and electricals.

Sunbeam

PS: I can't wait to find out why this never happens when we're bouncing along in a seaway, but rather only when we're on a glass smooth sea and or not even moving on a glass smooth sea. Puzzling!
 
Sunbeam, I've been looking at the electrical pictures you have in your album, and I'm thoroughly confused. Lots of questions here...

With the possible exception of the ground wire, the ACR should be connected directly to the batteries - and only the batteries. Is your ACR connected to the SafetyHub?

What else is connected to the positive lug on the SafetyHub? Does that wire go to a battery? Does it go the the switch in the next picture?

IMG_3855.jpg

Also, I can't tell from your pictures, which switch do you have?

Are there only two red wires connected to that switch? Where do they go?

IMG_3853.jpg

Finally, just to make sure I'm actually seeing what I think I'm seeing in your pictures...

How many batteries are you running?
How many engines are connected to the boat electrical system?
How many battery switches do you have?
 
AK Angler":233yeotg said:
Sunbeam, I've been looking at the electrical pictures you have in your album, and I'm thoroughly confused. Lots of questions here...

Hi and thanks for taking the time to look/think about this. I really appreciate it.

I have changed things a bit since those photos, and plus it looks like they were taken halfway through the job - before the wiring was actually completed. I guess I should remove those and add some new ones instead. Let me describe what I have as well as I can with a grand tour of the lazarette. But first a couple of specific things and answers to your questions:

First the change I mentioned: As it turns out, the ACR - wired as per instructions - will draw a small load all the time (even when battery switch is off). I called Blue Sea to talk to them about this, and they first recommended I put a small switch in the black ground wire of the ACR. Well, this didn't really interest me. I felt that one of the reasons to have this style of switch/ACR/system was to "turn it on" when getting to the boat and "turn it off" when leaving. Having to remember to turn off another little switch just rubbed me the wrong way. But to Blue Sea's credit, they understood, and gave me a couple of different options. One of those was to wire both sides of the ACR to the main battery switch. So that is what I did. Now when I turn off the main battery switch the ACR is de-energized and does not draw any small load. And still just the one "on/off" switch to turn. So that little "jumper" lead you see from the Safety Hub to the ACR is no longer there. Also I added a positive bus, and the batteries have switched physical spots from the photo (turned out I had received the wrong start battery, and it did not have a high enough CCA rating; when I got a new/larger one, I had to rearrange a bit and get some new cables of different lengths).

AK Angler":233yeotg said:
With the possible exception of the ground wire, the ACR should be connected directly to the batteries - and only the batteries. Is your ACR connected to the SafetyHub?

Not anymore. As mentioned above, now the two positive (red) cables coming from the ACR go to the two "cold side" terminals on the main battery switch - as suggested by Blue Sea to avoid the "parasitic" drain when the battery switch is off. So .... the ACR is not connected directly to the batteries.... maybe this is the problem and I misunderstood something?

AK Angler":233yeotg said:
What else is connected to the positive lug on the SafetyHub? Does that wire go to a battery? Does it go the the switch in the next picture?

I'll run through it all in sequence in my "grand tour" below.

AK Angler":233yeotg said:
Also, I can't tell from your pictures, which switch do you have?

It's the Blue Sea M-Series Dual Circuit Plus, part # 6011.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/6011/m-Series_Mini_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch_-_Red

AK Angler":233yeotg said:
Are there only two red wires connected to that switch? Where do they go?

I'll describe all the wires to the switch below.

AK Angler":233yeotg said:
Finally, just to make sure I'm actually seeing what I think I'm seeing in your pictures...

How many batteries are you running?

Two, one dedicated house (Group 31 AGM) and a smaller dedicated start battery (also AGM). Both were new as of my refit, as are the other components and cables in the lazarette.

AK Angler":233yeotg said:
How many engines are connected to the boat electrical system?

Two, a Yamaha F80 and a Honda 8D (electric start).

AK Angler":233yeotg said:
How many battery switches do you have?

Just the one Blue Sea 6011.

*************

So now for the tour:

I will run around the starboard lazarette counterclockwise, as that is sort of how the system goes. We'll start on the inboard "wall" forward to aft:

First, I have a house battery. It is a Full River Group 31 AGM battery. The positive lead from that goes to the left side of safety hub. The negative lead goes to the "input side" of the shunt for the battery monitor.

Next in physical presence is the start battery. It is a Full River AGM also, and I'm not sure of the group number, but it is their HC-44 battery. It was chosen because the physical size fit well (a bit smaller than a Group 24) and it has plenty of CCA. The positive lead from the start battery goes to the main battery switch, to the terminal I'll call "hot side #1." The negative lead goes to the "output" side of the shunt for the battery monitor (that's my terminology, but it's the side of the shunt that goes to the negative bus, not the side the house battery negative comes into.

Next is the Safety Hub. That has the house battery positive cable coming into the left side, and a positive battery cable leading out from the bottom and over to the main switch, to the terminal I'll call "hot side #2." (On the main switch, I used the #1 terminals for start stuff, and the #2 terminals for house stuff.) On the unswitched part of the Safety Hub (up top) are the bilge pump automatic switch wires.

Next is the ACR. Two cables go from the ACR to the main battery switch. One goes to the terminal I'll call "cold side #1," and the other goes to the terminal I'll call "cold side #2." (This is the re-wire Blue Sea suggested as an option so that the ACR does not draw a small "parasitic" load even when the battery switch was off and the boat not in use.) The small black ground wire from the ACR goes to the negative bus.

Next around the circle tour of the lazarette we hop over to the outboard "wall," after end, and find the battery monitor shunt. It has the incoming negative cable from the house battery on the "input" side, and the incoming negative cable from the start battery on the "output" side*. A cable also leads from this "output" side to the negative bus (further down the line).

*or maybe I led the negative cable from the start battery to the negative bus; I forget which worked out better physically, but I believe it's the same thing electrically. I'll have to look tomorrow.

Next is the main battery switch. It's a Blue Sea with "On," "Off," and "Combine" positions on the switch face, and on the inside four terminals, two #1 and two #2. I used the #1's for Start battery things, and the #2's for House things. Let me try to remember everything that is on that and where! So let's see. "Hot side #1" has the positive lead from the start battery. "Cold side" #1 has one positive cable from each engine, and one of the cables from the ACR. "Hot side #2" has the incoming positive cable from the Safety Hub. "Cold side" #2 has an outgoing cable leading to the next item around the ring, which is the positive bus, and also an incoming cable from the ACR.

Next is the positive bus (which was not in those photos at all), with the incoming cable from the main switch - from "cold side #2" (house loads). Coming off of the positive bus are two wires: One to the trim tab relay, and one that is the "infamous" feed wire leading up to the fuse block behind the helm (cue the ominous music!)

Last is the negative bus. That has an incoming black cable from the battery monitor shunt (and effectively the negative cable from the start battery, which I can't remember if I led to the shunt or to this bus). Then there are the two negative cables from the two engines. There are two ground wires that I brought in from the two (metal) fuel fills. Plus I think the negative from the trim tab relay (or maybe from the HPU, or both? I'll have to look). I think the small black ground wire from the ACR. And... I can't remember what all else right now (but probably it's self-explanatory). I will have to take a look (I have the wires labeled now, which was not yet done in the photos)

And now we are all the way around the tour of the lazarette and back to the house battery. Cookies will be served in the lobby :lol:

I hope this is not "clear as mud"!

Sunbeam
 
Thanks for taking the time to write all that up. I'm pretty sure I could follow everything. I'm gonna go make myself a couple of sketches, and stare at 'em for a bit...
 
AK Angler":pal304jh said:
Thanks for taking the time to write all that up. I'm pretty sure I could follow everything. I'm gonna go make myself a couple of sketches, and stare at 'em for a bit...

Oh good, I'm glad that worked. I was hoping it would be "followable," and I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do so. Funny, but as I imagined you reading it, I thought, "Now I bet he's going to be sketching this out as he goes along" :D

If I knew how to make a good "picture" of how it went together (on the computer), I would have. Actually, I guess I could draw it out in non-electrical-just-draw-it way on paper with colored markers, take a photo of it, and post it. But I imagine you will know how to do it in schematic form.

Thanks again - I feel like it's so much to plow through and yet so many folks here are taking the time. I hope I can help others with something I know about in future.

Sunbeam
 
Sunbeam,

I suspect your puzzle has a lot of us very intrigued. Not having a similar boat at hand, I could not follow your description, despite the clarity and completeness. A phenomenal job.

I am very curious what the culprit is. Once I see a schematic, my brain will be a'buzzin'! :D
 
I've been busy and haven't had time to work my way through the narrative and build a schematic yet... Should be able to get to it tonight. 8)
 
Thanks for the update, and for taking the time to think about the mystery. On my end the VHF/GPS are still on (and the ACR still disconnected, for what that's worth). Boat's on trailer now as we get things squared away on the outside post-trip.

I think maybe I'll reconnect the ACR and see what happens. Of course the results will not be conclusive either way on that (like they would have been if things went dark with it disconnected), but...

The fine-toothed comb inspection of the electrical will come later today or tomorrow. I sure would like to find something obvious, such as big honking patch of bare wire with a screw through it (never thought I would say that!).

Sunbeam
 
Minor update:

1) As of mid-day, the VHF and GPS were still on.

2) We re-connected the ACR for now.

3) We laid hands on every inch of that helm feed wire, and looked over everything behind the helm (again) (including removing P-clamps and wire ties to get a better look at it all). Nothing suspicious was noted.

4) We completely "re-filled" the main fuse block where we had been robbing it for spares (which we now have more of).

5) We looked at the short jumper wire between the positive bus and the main switch. Nothing noted.

6) We removed the battery switch from the "wall," and looked over everything. Nothing noted except that I had previously noted the jumper was slightly loose on the switch terminal. First I wiggled it like mad and saw that the GPS/VHF did not even flicker; then I tightened it properly, and then put the switch back.

7) We inspected the #6 cables leading from the switch to the ACR - nothing noted.

8 ) We put a 20-amp fuse back in the "main fuse" spot that we rigged (I'll need to order some of the 30-amp in that other style).

9) For now, as a diagnostic tool, we decided to add an inline, 20-amp fuse to that main helm feed wire, right back by the positive bus. My thinking on that was that if that fuse blows, it tells us it's something forward of that; if the problem happens without that fuse blowing, then maybe it's something else (something inside the ACR? Or?). Ultimately, I'll replace that wire with some new, proper, larger gauge wire and re-do the fuse block, etc.; but for the loads I'm running now it's fine anyway. We'll do that this afternoon yet.

9) Then we'll take the boat out for awhile and see if we can make the problem happen again (plus run the tanks out of ethanol fuel and then put in some "pure gas" I was able to get on shore in a 5-gallon can, fog the engines, and run them dry).

That's it for this update in the Mystery files.

Sunbeam
 
ghone":1g293c7w said:
Great info Sunbeam. Hope you've solved it. George

Thanks, George. First I have to find it though!

The new inline fuse is installed in the helm feed wire, just ahead of the positive buss. My new thought was to try this in stages, so we put a 5 amp fuse in that spot, and a 10 amp in the "main fuse" slot. The theory is that we'd like to "encourage" the problem to recur while we are out tomorrow (because after that I won't be using the boat for a while, and it would sure be nice to figure this out!).

I think I'll be fine with the 5 amp on the helm feed wire (unless that wire is the problem, which I'd be happy to find out) because I'll just have the GPS/depth/VHF on (no transmitting). The problem has occurred quite a few times with just these on (and they draw less than 5 amps).

My one concern is that I don't want to go so low on the main fuse that somehow the engines make it blow and cloud the issue (because of the alternator charging). I think it helps that the start battery is fully charged, and the house nearly fully charged.... but I'm a little foggy on this part.

We do have a huge stock of fuses now, so we can always "upgrade" both of them if we need to.

Later on, I'll pull out that helm feed wire and put in larger wire, plus more/better fuse blocks, etc. Right now I just want to figure out what the problem is! I don't really know enough to even guess, but perhaps either that helm wire (for some undiscernable reason) or... the ACR could be faulty?

Just curious for the future upgrade: Would that helm wire normally "want" to be fused? Considering that everything "downstream" of it is already appropriately fused (which now everything I have is since the cigar lighter was upgraded.) Or does that wire not usually get fused separately since all the components downstream are, and the main fuse would presumably protect that (helm feed) wire?

Sunbeam
 
If you have a fuse within 7 inches of the battery terminal on that new main line, adequate to protect the wire, you are done. It is there to handle any inadvertent overloads, either from a short, or from the combined loads of the items served by that wire. IIRC, you anticipate running a 6 ga wire as the new main line, with the existing 10 ga wire reserved for expansion, and/or as a voltage source that will be within 3% of the source voltage ... obviously only small draws.

Do not recall where your main fuse is, and what it serves. You need a fuse or breaker on each separate wire of a size to protect it, if that wire runs directly off the positive side of the battery.
 
That sounds like a good strategy, Sunbeam!

These kinds of things take an inordinate amount of time to solve. It's painful.
 
Thanks, Ray.

Aaaand, I think after today we have something! I'm so jazzed.

The short version: We seem to have an ACR problem.

The "whole story" version:
So just to review the last little bit, we hauled the boat with this mystery issue. We planned to spend some time stationary on land getting the boat, etc. squared away, so to continue the experiment we left the VHF and GPS on over the last couple of days (parked on the trailer). We had reconnected the ACR (which we were slightly suspicious of, along with that helm wire). But the instruments stayed on just fine (natch).

So, today we decided to take the boat out again. Our goals were threefold:

1) Check area of hull that sits on bunks to see if it needs extra cleaning (we washed a bunch of slime off the rest of the boat bottom after hauling, but couldn't reach the bunk sections).

2) Burn up the rest of our ethanol fuel, then put in some Ring-Free'd and Stabiled "pure" gas that we'd purchased in town and brought along in a 5-gallon jerry jug; run that through all the hoses and both engines; and then fog both engines.

3) See if we could figure out something on this vexing electrical problem! I did not want to put the boat to bed "broken."

The weather is still just lovely here: Cool nights, days in the low 70's, calm winds and glassy seas, and very clear air. So not exactly a hardship to go out for the day. Still, I was nervous to add an "extra" launch and retrieve (especially since our previous retrieve had gone so well), but.... I guess that means I need the practice!

Electrically, you may remember, we had decided to "encourage" the problem to happen by putting in smallish fuses - one new fuse positioned in the helm feed wire with a 5 amp in it (we only used the basic three instruments), and one new one in the "main fuse" position (10 amp). We didn't use the trim tabs since they had already been cleared of suspicion and we wanted to keep it simple.

We shoved off around 1 p.m. and motored all around Wahweap Bay. Still quite a bit of fuel, so mext we toodled over to the dam, which my buddy had not seen. All this time, electronics bright as day. Sheesh. Then, on the way back, I started thinking out loud again....

"So wait, thinking back, not only has this never happened when we were underway, bouncing along and just moving the way one does; but I think it's actually always happened when the engine is off. At least, five of the six times I'm sure it was off; the sixth one we had just shoved off from a beach and I didn't see it had happened until after I started the engine, but it very well may have already blown and I just didn't notice, as I was looking back at the engine/beach/indicator stream."

"So what always happens when the engine is shut down and we are stopped for a while?" "Things could cool down.... but then the last two times we had only shut off the engine for a minute or two.... not much time to cool yet." "What doesn't happen when the engine is running and thus keeps it from happening?" "If it is the ACR.... how could that play in?"

We decided to pull into a quiet cove on the way back from the dam and shut down and just drift, and see if it would happen. We did that and my buddy, who was growing ever more suspicious of the ACR, decided to go check the status light on it (it shows different patterns for combined, for isolated, for "locked out" (if batteries get down to 9.5V or less), and for start isolation (of house loads*). After we shut down, my bud checked the light. It showed "combined." This is how it should be because it combines when running (charging), and doesn't isolate until it sees a drop to ~12.75 volts (then it isolates to protect the start battery) -- having just stopped, we were still above that.

Just at about that point a (mental) light bulb went on: What if this happens at the moment that the ACR goes to isolate? That fits with the pattern of it always happening after we shut down and are just sitting around in calm water. The times it takes 2-3 hours could be when we stopped with the batteries fully charged (12.9 or so) and/or are not drawing much; and the times it happens quickly could be either when the batteries were not quite fully charged, and/or when we were drawing more (say, charging that laptop in the cigar lighter, or the trim tab retractor cycling - back before I de-activated it). Then the voltage could either be at or below 12.75 -- or get there quickly.

So there we were, drifting in a quiet cove, and the batteries were still higher than 12.75. With our "small fuses to test" program, we couldn't really draw much out of them to hasten the process. We thought about going back to larger fuses and running loads, just to hurry things along, but then decided, no, let's not change more variables. It was a pleasant afternoon to be out anyway. After a while longer... "snick," off went the VHF (and the GPS and the depth sounder; it's just that the VHF makes a sound as it shuts off).

We checked the ACR light.... it was showing "locked out." The main fuse was blown. The (new) helm wire fuse was not blown. Of course after we thought about it for a minute we realized that with the main fuse blown, of course the ACR would see no volts, so would give us the "below 9.5V" lockdown state. When we put a new fuse in, the ACR starts out "isolated" (vs. switching itself to isolated) and does not blow the fuse. Hmm, okay, we may be onto something here.

So okay, now let's motor around a bit and then stop again to test our theory. We motor around, all is fine. The ACR goes to "combine" as soon as we start the engine and it detects charging (because the start battery is basically always full). We motor along a bit and then stop again. This time my buddy goes and watches the ACR light like a hawk. I watch the battery monitor to see where it stands relative to 12.75 (which is when the ACR is supposed to go to isolate status again).

This takes awhile since we're not drawing much with just the instruments, but that's okay, it's a nice day and I'm squaring things away in the cabin and making notes on what we're doing. Buddy is munching on butter candies while he hunches over the lazarette with a small mirror (to see the light on the ACR better).

The voltage finally gets down to 12.75, and I'm just saying "Well, it's about time for...." when "snick!" off goes the VHF (and the GPS and depth sounder), the ACR goes to "lockout" and the main fuse blows. Okay, we have information now!

So next we disconnect the ACR and run that way. Over the course of the late afternoon we run and stop, run and stop quite a few times (once at a beach to clean the hull where it's on the trailer bunks; numerous times to put pure gas in the tanks, run the Honda, etc.). (Side note: If you *really* want to feel like your boat is fuel efficient, then take it out with two tanks at 1/8 full and try to run it out of fuel on purpose. Sheez, we were retrieving in the dark!).

There was one more thing I wondered about: How does the fact that the boat sat on the trailer for two days with the instruments on, and the ACR connected, and nothing blew fit in? Okay, I think we have made sense of that: Since it was disconnected (un-wired) when we hauled last time, the ACR was already in its isolated stage (automatically, so to speak). Then we reconnected it, but because then the engine was never started, it never sensed the start battery charging back to full, and so never combined. Thus, it didn't ever actively "switch over" to isolated mode (which is the moment it seems to blow the main fuse).

Anyway, with the ACR disconnected, everything runs like a top. No fuses blow. I think we have an ACR problem. Tomorrow morning I'm going to call Blue Sea, the manufacturer, and discuss it with them. I'll describe how I have it wired (which I believe is how they recommended I do it, but.... I want to make sure I didn't make a mistake), explain what's happening, and see what they think.

I have apologized to the cigar lighter and the helm feed wire :wink

Sunbeam

*Which, to my chagrin, I found out is optional, and I did not have hooked up - that's on the to-do list.

PS: To the good, now that I have learned more - thanks to the helpful and knowledgable Brats who have contributed - I'm going to put in a larger/new helm feed wire, add enough fuse block(s) to eliminate as many inline fuses as possible, and just generally clean up the behind-the-helm wiring.
 
Sunbeam -- that is a great write up. After my boat accident, I drove the boat back to port for the twenty-mile trip on my kicker engine while running my radio, radar and chart plotter on house battery. After the boat was repaired, we took it out for a ride, and then the chart plotter screen began to dim. The water faucet flow was way down. I scratched my head. The Blue Sea Systems ACR does not charge the house battery when it hits 9.5 volts. I had to disconnect the battery cables to the house battery, flip the battery switch to combine batteries, restart the engine, and all electrical systems ran off of the cranking battery. But for an ACR to blow a fuse -- that is an entirely different matter and something useful to know. I think all of us using Blue Sea Systems ACR's would be very interested to learn about the the cause of your problem.

Rich
 
C-Nile":zz23pbix said:
After my boat accident, I drove the boat back to port for the twenty-mile trip on my kicker engine...

I've been meaning to tell you that I've been using a tip that you gave out when telling about that event. Because my Honda 8D kicker has a tiller - and is installed to starboard - apparently it's not easy to install a tie bar to the main. I had that in the back of my mind as a slight negative (although of course I can run it back in the cockpit like a skiff), and then I read your tale of that day, and how you were able to effectively run back under kicker by fixing it in the "straight ahead" position and using your main as a rudder while steering from the cabin/helm. (I should have thought of that as when running small sailboats with outboards we'd just leave them pointing straight ahead and steer with the tiller).

Anyway, I tried it with my Honda kicker on the maiden voyage in September, and, voila!, it worked like a charm. Did the same thing today while running around on the kicker getting the "good" fuel into it. So thanks for that :thup And glad to hear you are good as new again.

C-Nile":zz23pbix said:
But for an ACR to blow a fuse -- that is an entirely different matter and something useful to know. I think all of us using Blue Sea Systems ACR's would be very interested to learn about the the cause of your problem.

I will definitely follow up here. It very well may be some mistake I made in wiring it, and/or it's possible we think we have it sussed but don't. I called Blue Sea with a question while installing the electrical components (many of them Blue Sea brand) in the lazarette and found their tech help to be excellent - pleasant and competent - so I'm expecting a good conversation with them.

Sunbeam
 
Sorry this took so long. (Sometimes life overrides good intentions.) But, I'm glad to hear you may have found the problem.

Anyway, I did finally get a chance to draw up (what I think is) your wiring schematic. Before I make any comments/statements, let me know if I got everything drawn up correctly...

SunbeamWiring3_zpsa519fe2e.jpg
 
AK Angler":1n5hxaib said:
Sorry this took so long. (Sometimes life overrides good intentions.)

Please don't apologize - it was very nice of you to study my issue and draw this up at all, much less on rush demand.

AK Angler":1n5hxaib said:
Before I make any comments/statements, let me know if I got everything drawn up correctly...

That looks great! Would you mind if I saved a copy?

I followed everything through and it looks like it matches what I have. It's neat to see it drawn out that way. That could have saved several people from falling asleep while reading my verbal description of it all :wink

Again, that's really slick! Now I'm curious if you see anything ominous or "interesting."

Sunbeam

PS: Looking again, I just noticed something. This may just be a switch drawing convention I don't understand, but.... on my main battery switch, there is just "Off," "On," and "Combine." On the drawing it looks like (to me) the switch can "turn on" either the house or the start battery separately (because there are two arms shown), but I don't think I can do that because "On" closes both of those "arms" simultaneously (right?)
 
OK - Here's an updated drawing. I hope it helps clear up how the switch works. (And I added the HPU.)

SunbeamWiring5_zps317f9ef5.jpg

Basically, when you turn the switch to the 'ON' position, both the start and the house circuits close, and both circuits become hot. The house battery connects to the house side, and the start battery connects to the start side, but they remain separate from each other. In this case, the ACR acts as the 'COMBINE' leg of the switch, sensing the battery voltages and allowing the alternator to charge the start battery, the house battery, or both, as needed - automatically.

When you turn the switch to the 'COMBINE' position, the 'ON' circuits remain closed (hot), the cross-link closes in the switch, and both batteries (in parallel) power both circuits together. In this case, the ACR is - for all intents and purposes - doing nothing.

Does that make sense?


And, of course yo can save a copy of the wiring diagram. After all, it's only relevant for the wiring on your boat. :wink:

BlueSea may want to look at it as well...
 
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