Nagging details, changes

B

bmacpiper

New member
Hi again,

Loving the new dory, but having some minor problems that some of you hopefully have easy fixes for. Also looking for ideas on a couple of additions,

--The black plastic trim on the top of the transom has separated--recommended epoxy and or procedure for reattaching?

--The brass tube in the drain (main drain, behind the fuel tanks) is loose and twists when I install the plug--also takes on water slowly when plugged. Both sides are flared, leading me to believe it's installed straight, then flared into place. Ideas to remove and replace, or simply seal the existing one?

--Curious about anchor rode/chain storage solutions out there for the 16 cruiser. I visit the Columbia from time to time, but don't want 300-400 feet of scope with me at other times.

--Would like to add two flip-down seats to the rear cockpit, but they'd have to be really thin when folded so as not to take away fishing space. Sources/models?

--Good netting or other solution for the cabin roof, for storing charts, etc. overhead?

Thanks as always. Finally got my numbers and am fully titled and legal again.

best,
bmc
 
Before you put it back in the water take out the brass cockpit drains, check for water or wetness of the tramsom. If wet dry them out, epoxy around the hole so it is water tight. You can buy new brass tubes and install them with a hammer and a couple of short pieces of 2x4. Use 4200 or 5200.

I had to do that with mine , as the water did much damage to the core in the tramson. DO IT NOW. I hope its not to late. :cry C-Otter
 
Congratulations are your 'new' 16 footer. You're gonna love that boat! If you find any fold-down seats please let us know. I've been thinking about that for a while.
 
bnc, on the brass tube take a chisel or screwdriver to the flange and collapse the tube then pull it out. West marine has these but you will need to cut to he correct length. As C-Otter said dry the balsa out (I use a portable heater and direct the air flow into the opening with a aluminum foil shroud) then seal the new tube with 5200.

I have a flanging tool I bought when replacing mine and can send your way if you would like to borrow it.

stevej
 
Thanks all, appreciate the tips. C-Otter, does "damage to the transom" simply show up as delamination of the balsa and glass, or something else? Fortunately, this boat only has 60 hours on it, mostly under my care in the past two months. Hopefully we're still ok. I'll pull the tube and have a look. Did you also replace the drains in the motor well? I can only assume they'd have the same problems as the cockpit drain.

bmc
 
The factory must have forgotten the sealant on the transom drain. That is really troubling. Go to the whaler website "continuous wave". They deal at length with those drains. A lot of whaler drains failed after 20 or 30 years. You should find some pictures on there. I am assuming you will find plywood in the transom where the drain is installed. It will probably still be okay.
 
On that drain tube, id go straight to the factory. I replaced ours with a screw type, getting rid of that cheap tube style. As previously mentioned dry it well and use good epoxy to put the replacement back in. When I mentioned the problem with ours, Bret Reynolds assured me the new ones were of the threaded type like we used. Did they only upgrade the bigger boats? By the way "they forgot the sealant on ours too" which led to taking on 3 to 4 gallons of water on an overnight trip.

Memphis Net and Twine is a great place for all manner of netting and cordage.

Good Luck, Mike
 
bmacpiper:
My 1985 angler has three hull drains, one on each aft corner and motor well drain. It was sitting in my driveway and I saw a wet spot on the tarmac. Water was dripping out around the outside of the two cockpit tubes.

I removed the tubes and about a coffee can amount of water mixed with balsa core came out each side. :cry

I drilled another one inch hole above the drain hole to check for water or wet core, finding it dry at that point I put the vacuum hose on blow. These holes were on the inside. After four or five days it was dry.

I than duct taped the lower hole, mixed west marine epoxy resin 105 mixed with high-density filler. Using the top hole I filled the entire hollow space .

I gave it a few days to harden, then drilled the bottom holes the size needed for the tubes ,put in new tubes with 5200. So now even if the tubes leak again it will not go into the core.
 
Some how I pushed the wrong button and sent the message before I was done. I did not do anything with the motorwell drain as it is above water and is covered when on the trailer. You have to remove the motor to get it out. I put 4200 around the tube.

All this wae done five years ago. C-Otter
 
OK, thanks again. C-Otter, the 16 is just the opposite--I have one hull drain, and two motorwell drains. I'll look at them while I'm in all this, and with the boat only being two years old, I'll call C-Dory and see about warranty too.
best,
bmc
 
I am planning to add one or more of the "Garelick side Gunwale Utility Seats" from West Marine to the "Palomino". You can check them out online. Not sure how thin they are. 16" by 18".
 
I don't know how the factory will respond, but these are quality control issues, which should not occur during the manufacturing process. I would contact the factory and see what they say.

I agree 100 % that the stern drain tube needs to be removed, the plywood (there should not be balsa in the transom, but there could be some wet balsa from this--and it should definately be investigated. After the tube is removed, use a dremmel tool and remove the core material for about 1/4" around the hole for the tube. Thicken up epoxy with cabisol and high density filler, to peanut better or maybe slightly thicker and fill all of this rounted out area with the epoxy. (you should coat the good core material with regular epoxy --a light coat to penetrate the surface--before the thickened epoxy.) Then bore out smooth the hole, and put in either the garboard type of plug or the smooth bore brass tube, with flared ends (you can make your own flare "tool" with threaded rod. Agree put in the new tube or drain with 5200.

The plastic should be put back in with epoxy--thicken the epoxy with cabosil. Roughen the back of the black plastic with some 36 gritt sand paper by hand, and then put weights or a board which is cut to the contour and let this dry overnight. Be sure that there is no dirt or moisture under this. We removed the entire black plastic strip. It cleaned up very nicely with acetone.
 
The easiest way that we removed those drains was to use an air saw and cut the drain just through the brass. I agree 100% on replacing it with a screw in plug. The black plastic is secured from the factory with an epoxy called Methacrylate. If you use acetone to clean it will dull and you can re-buff it at a very slow speed with a fine compund to shine it up nicely. Hope this helps.
 
bmacpiper":1vxbuicn said:
--Curious about anchor rode/chain storage solutions out there for the 16 cruiser. I visit the Columbia from time to time, but don't want 300-400 feet of scope with me at other times.
Click to expand...
bmc - I built a rode locker in the bow of my boat using a five gallon bucket. I have 300’ of line in it and 11’ of chain. Photos of it are in my photo album. Click on the thumbnail and they are photos six through fifteen.

anchor_finish.thumb.jpg
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Dave dlt.gif
 
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