Nav Lights Out

H

Homer22

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C Dory Year
1988
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Fuse at rocker switch is good. Using a voltmeter, found juice all the way to the pigtail going to nav light fixture. No juice at the bulb contacts. Same on both nav lights. Only two possibilities: Bad ground connection (to both lights??) or bad light fixtures (corrosion) but both at same time?? The wiring on this 88 cruiser is prisitine. In fact I hate to be mucking around with it at all. It hasn't been touched since factory. Any other ideas?
 
I found the same thing on my 05. Well, power to the last wire to the light fixture, but the light would not work. Wound up running a second power wire. Works like a champ now.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I consistently seem to have this issue on my all-around light. A little electrical grease or WD-40 on the connectors seems to clear it up. My issue is that my switch seems to be wired backwards because I can't just turn on the anchor light. My switch lights either all the running lights and all around light, or just the red and green bow light only.

On kind of a different topic but same thread, I have been scared to anchor overnight with my installed anchor light on for fear of running the battery down and not being able to start in the morning, so I use an auxiliary/removable anchor light that I attach and that runs on D cells and lasts overnight. Any thoughts as to whether this is an unfounded fear or not?
 
DoryLvr":i6pk0uk4 said:
I consistently seem to have this issue on my all-around light. A little electrical grease or WD-40 on the connectors seems to clear it up. My issue is that my switch seems to be wired backwards because I can't just turn on the anchor light. My switch lights either all the running lights and all around light, or just the red and green bow light only.

On kind of a different topic but same thread, I have been scared to anchor overnight with my installed anchor light on for fear of running the battery down and not being able to start in the morning, so I use an auxiliary/removable anchor light that I attach and that runs on D cells and lasts overnight. Any thoughts as to whether this is an unfounded fear or not?
Click to expand...

Tivo, get yourself an LED replacement for your anchor light. It'll run for days on a "spit" of electricity.

Charlie
 
good idea on LEDs

Clean bulb socket contacts with sandpaper and retest.
You might have bad connectors at the pigtails and can replace them
 
Did just that today. Cleaned up all the corrosion/crud on lights, replaced bulbs and all is good now. Thanks.
 
Tivo,

I got a LED anchor light from West Marine, which is a direct replacement for the Perco bulb (if that's what you have.) It's a legal 2 mi bulb (set of LEDs,) which will cover your rear if you have an accident. It's pricey ($50,) but it saves your battery and gives you the safety of a real anchor light. I now don't worry about the anchor light being on or off, since it only draws a tenth of the incandescent bulb. The WM part # is 9353384 or 9353442, pg 458. Certainly gave me peace of mind.

WM also sells a LED bulb that's cheaper but not a 2 mi light.

Boris
 
I'll take a gander for the LED. I drive right by WM everyday coming and going to work. Still makes me nervous though, D cells are cheap compared to running out of juice. I do carry an extra house battery that is hooked to a solar charger, I could always swap out.

The brightness of a LED really meets requirements? Interesting.
 
DoryLvr":1rld7f6m said:
I'll take a gander for the LED. I drive right by WM everyday coming and going to work. Still makes me nervous though, D cells are cheap compared to running out of juice. I do carry an extra house battery that is hooked to a solar charger, I could always swap out.

The brightness of a LED really meets requirements? Interesting.
Click to expand...

It does Tivo, and draws ma. instead of A.
 
I've done the led switch on my boat and trailer. The new anchor light draws 175 milliamps. And, it's way brighter. The site I got them from was www.superbrightleds.com By the way, I've had light problems as well and in my case it was the spade connector on the back of the switch.
 
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