Need for kicker?

I'll second that. Very happy with the Tahatsu 6 hp. I have ours set up with an independent 6 gal. fuel supply and the connecting rod to the main. If the main were to fail in a high risk situation, the kicker can be running in a matter of seconds. It will push our 22 at 5-6 mph at 3/4 throttle. Nothing is gained at full throttle except more fuel consumption. Ours was purchased at onlineoutboards. No tax, free shipping.
 
Ken, I pm'd you some questions about your Tohatsu, but does anyone else have experience with this engine? (I learned that Tohatsu does also build the smaller outboards for Nissan and Merc.) What about the integral fuel tank? Looks like it only holds 1/3 gal, so not much. What size integral tanks to most the other small kickers have? I know the Tohatsu 6 comes with either the integral tank, or an external 3 gal tank; and that the one with the integral tank also has an aux fuel hook up. So far, I'm thinking this motor is the way I will go. With a 15" shaft... Any other thoughts/suggestions about shaft length? What about new vs. used. The 2013 Tohatsu 6 can be purchased online for about $1300. Can add an altenator kit to it for another $400, which seems like a good idea just as a backup for charging a battery. Colby
 
I also have the Tohatsu 6 hp long shaft. It's a great little engine that will take a lot of abuse -- I use it on the dinghy when at Catalina -- and hang it off the transom of the 22 for use as a kicker (though I've never had to use it in an emergency). It starts easily, though may need to be primed if not used for a couple of days (just squeezing the priming bulb a few times). I'd buy another one today if this one were damaged or stolen.
 
If using the kicker on a dinghy there are many good reasons to stick with a 15" shaft. If only for a kicker--then a 20" shaft. The 15" shaft does not get the kicker below the hull--it will work to push the boat forward, but does not work well in reverse, because the prop wash pushes against the hull. You want to keep the power head out of the water/waves as much as possible, and the 20" shaft helps with that in heavier seas.

The Tohastu is an excellent choice. My Merc- (actually a Tohastu) has only the small tank--it will run a long time at medium throttle.) Having an alternate fuel tank will make it much easier than pouring fuel into the integral tank! (as the 4 HP on up can have).

As for steering I use either one of the clamp on articuilated tiller extenders, or just slip a piece of PvC pipe (which you can modify to get around any obstructions easily) over the tiller. If you want one 4 feet long--no problem!

The battery charging might be handy, but it is only 5 amps!-- I prefer a Honda 1000, with a good charger (like the West Marine portable 30 amp, which has multiple settings, and compensations, plus a trickle charge and engine start boost function. However, this combo is going to cost around $1000 vs the $400 for the add on alternator..But it is far more versitile, including running a 5000 BTU air conditioner. (so much for minimalist)
 
Another thing to look into on the alternator: I am given to understand that even if they are rated to put out, say, 5 amps, it's often mostly/only at full throttle. That may not be an issue for your use (and they may not all be that way), but something to check. I don't know if it's linear, either, (so 5 amps at full throttle may not mean 2.5 at half throttle). This is a common issue on smaller sailboats because they don't typically run at full throttle when under outboard engine power. Maybe just something to check before you add the option.


Sunbeam
 
I tried using a Honda 5 hp outboard as a battery charger. For your peace of mind, don't repeat my mistake. Running an outboard in neutral at high speed for a couple of hours in an anchorage is not a peaceful option. And that's only 10 amp hrs.

Take the $400 add another $400 and buy a Honda 1000. This is quiet, so you don't disturb yourself or everyone else, and it's useful off the boat, say for camping.

And if you don't want to do that, just save the $400.

Boris
 
Ok, so 15" vs. 20". How does the 20" work on the dinghy? I don't have any plans now to get a dinghy, but I'd hate to get one later only to find out that the 20" shaft was too long? I didn't think about the poor, or lack of, reverse with the prop behind the hull. However, I was thinking of getting one of those mounts that you can lower when you want to use the kicker. I do have trim tabs on my boat, so how will that affect the placement of the kicker? I've pretty much decided to get the Tohatsu 6.0 with integral tank. And I'll probably add the 3 gal external tank as well. Or is that 1/3 gal integral tank worth even having? I thought I read somewhere that the motor would only run about 40 mins on that small amount of fuel.
Oh, I do have the Eu2000i generator. But don't keep that on the boat unless I'm planning on using it for whatever reason... I did realize the altenator kit was only 5 amps. But that might be just enough to recharge a battery that died over night to start the main, or to keep the lights or a bilge pump running if necessary.
 
Oops, I missed the last few comments before I responded in regards to the altenator kit. The information does say the output is dependent upon engine speed....so maybe that $400 isn't worth it. I just don't want to carry my Eu2000i on the boat all the time. It's a tad bit heavier than the 1000, but not much bigger. Maybe I should just hold off on the altenator, and trust my dual batteries! ;-) Money might be better spent on a nicer kicker mount...
 
I use the 20" and I really like it. It gives me confidence that there will be sufficient power in forward and reverse for use on the 22 -- and I have had no problem with use on the dinghy. It is a little harder to beach, but I just pull it up (tilt) -- much of the landings on Catalina are on a beach so I do this often. For other use (e.g., boat to dinghy dock) you would not know the difference (at least I don't). If I were shopping dinghy only I would get the 15". For use on both, 20" for sure. I have an external tank. If I were to do it again I would get the internal tank. But, then again, I haven't had to use it to push the 22 any real distance. Trade-off I suppose.

Interesting observation: the new Cal Air Resources Board (CARB) approved gas tanks -- which require evaporation control, permeation control, and control of liquid leaks -- works great. My old kicker tank and fuel line were stolen :amgry off the engine well. When I replaced them for $150 ( :amgry :amgry ) I expected the tank to develop a vapor lock -- but in fact the engine runs better than it did (probably because it maintains the prime between the external tank and the engine better).
 
So far, this is what I'm leaning towards:
2013 Tohatsu 6 hp 20" shaft, integral tank and additional 3 gal external tank. No Altenator. Anyone have a better suggestion? I don't currently have a dinghy, and real no plans to get one in the future...of course that can always change. I/m sure I will get the removable steering linkage as soon as I get the kicker mounted and know what length I need. So what about mounting? I do have trim tabs, with a swim platform on the port side. And I have the motor well cooler mount. I suspect that could get in the way of the tiller handle possibly during use, but the cooler and it's mount can always be removed when using the kicker. How close do most mount the kicker to the main (in my case the Merc 115). With a 20", would it be ok to just mount right to the transom, or would it still be better to get some sort of mount that can raise and lower?
 
I prefer the mount--it gets the kicker back away from the main engine and trim tabs. (you don't have a dinghy--but if you do, it makes it easier to transfer to an inflatable.
 
My boat came to me with a Honda 8 mounted directly to the transom. If I had wanted to keep it there, I could not have fit the M-120 trim tabs (I think I could have fit some shallower ones, maybe). I also had the issue that the skeg rode very close to the ground when trailering, and there was not a tidy way to prop it up like there is with the main engine.

I'm mounting a Mini Jacker. It's a fixed mounting plate that many C-Dorys have mounted in the past. It allows the engine to nicely clear the M-120's, by moving it aft 3" or so. The way many people (and me) mount it, it also raises it 3", but it could be placed lower down I believe. Since many other brats have this mount, I can only assume the 3" raise is okay, although I guess it will take away some "bite" from the prop. It will position it better for trailering, so I will be able to just leave the engine down.

There are quite a few photographs in the albums of boats with a kicker, the Mini Jacker mount, and trim tabs. Here are two from Voyager's album:

IMG_0897.jpg

IMG_0896.jpg

Sunbeam
 
Ok, now I'm seeing some Suzuki and Yamaha 6.0s online for almost half the price of the Tohatsu or $780. These are also 2012 or 2013. Are they a good motor, or why the price difference?
 
If they are new, and for that price, go for it. If they've come off seasonal rentals, then I wouldn't do it. Suzies are great and so are the Yami's, but I'd buy a new Tohatsu rather than a discounted Suzie or Yami if there is anything strange reason for their being so deeply discounted.
 
May or may not be a scammer--but always look to see where the head quarters are. The first one is in China! That means import duty, and shipping are gong to have to be paid. Since they are gray market, you may not get a warranty in the US.

Here is more information on Bolin Trade Co:

"Because BOLIN TRADING is a Trading Company, how we win the customers trust as a trusted supplier of quality essential oil bottles of all kinds & sizes? For years we only focus on these two kinds of products. We work with customer's like you everyday to help you get the bottles you want and the product delivery times you need to help your business achieve the successful results you demand. "

You can get some good used fresh water guide motors out of Canada. I probably would take a chance on them, since they are used only for 3 months and mostly for trolling.
 
Just some different things bothered me looking over the site selling the motors for $780.... The wording, etc... It's all mute now. I went ahead and ordered the Tohatsu 6.0, 20" shaft, integral tank, from onlineoutboards. Buying the 3.2 gal fuel tank and hose from them as accessories is a little more pricey and the guy said that is Tohatsu's name brand stuff and I could probably do better on my own for that stuff. (I saw one the other day at Gander Mountain for $59...) Anyway, I can add that later. Next step is to decide what kind and to purchase a mount. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears again. ;-) Colby
 
If you are more interested in just a very simple mount, here is a photo of the one on, I believe, "Retriever," with a Tohatsu 6. It maybe a Garelick brand.

I note that this boat has the shallower (fore/aft) dimension trim tabs; not sure this would work with the deeper ones such as M-120's.

trim_tab_and_plastic_kicker_block_retriever.jpg

From an installation perspective, I haven't seen anything about the Mini-Jacker (pictured on Voyager in an earlier post in this thread ) "not to like" as I've been handling it. So far I would choose it again.

I have heard of issues where the plastic "block" on mounts such as the black one have broken, but that may have been with a larger/heavier engine, etc. I just read about it on the Internet vs. actually seeing it happen.

Sunbeam
 
Back
Top