Need help in taking off bow rail on 16 Cruiser

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pluscount

New member
I want to put a bow mounted trolling motor on my 16. That will necessitate removing the bow rail and relocating the bow cleat forward. Easy peasy I thought.

Not so fast Skippy. All the screws will turn loose but they will not back out. There also seems to be some adhesive under the flanges. I’m not sure how they were originally attached. Its a 2007 if that makes a difference. Any help appreciated.
 
Hey,
They're through bolted. You'll have to either cut through the forward bulkhead or remove it and dig through the foam to access them. The bulkhead is pretty thick plywood.

The adhesive is also the bedding compound the prevent water intrusion through the bolt holes.

Take care and be safe. Spuncopper
 
Hey,
They're through bolted. You'll have to either cut through the forward bulkhead or remove it and dig through the foam to access them. The bulkhead is pretty thick plywood.

The adhesive is also the bedding compound the prevent water intrusion through the bolt holes.

Take care and be safe. Spuncopper
 
spuncopper":36gmmoks said:
Hey,
They're through bolted. You'll have to either cut through the forward bulkhead or remove it and dig through the foam to access them.
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That was my fear. Once I cut through and access the nuts, do i need to completely reseal the bulkhead or will re-foaming with an open or semi-open hole be good enough?

Good news is that I can now put a nice backing plate on the trolling motor mount.

While we're at it, how to fill the leftover bolt holes?
 
Hey pluscount,

The bulkhead isn't structural. It's held in place with a couple of small brackets and then pasted over with some type sealant. I cut an access opening so I could install an "anchor chain locker". While doing so I used a Rockwell Sonocrafter to carefully smooth up the sealant, which had been slopply applied by the factory. I plan on totally removing this bulkhead this winter and extending the bunk. So it's whatever you're comfortable with.

I also removed the foam with plans to replace it under the bunk at a later date, which hasn't happened yet; hopefully it'll be done this winter when I remove the bulkhead.

As far as filling the old bolt holes there are several posts in this forum detailing how to do this. So far, I haven't had to do that.

Hope this helps. Spuncopper
 
To make the boat cosmetically acceptable is going to take some work. There are two ways: Both involve overdriving the bolt holes, to be sure that the core is not wet; This is assure good adhesion of filling compound.

1: epoxy--thickened, with cabosil and high density filler. tape the bottom, and work epoxy into the hole, until it is over filled,- (tape off the edges around the hole). Then use a Dremel tool or other devices to replicate the non skid diamond pattern on the deck where the bow pulpit legs were bolted. There are "molds" which are patterned and you may find one on the internet. Then either paint, or gel coat over, to match the deck--not easy.

2. Vinyl Ester Resin: Basically the same, but better adherence for gel coat. I am not a fan of polyester resin and thickeners--materials like "Bondo" should be avoided--they don't hold up well on boats. You may want to put fibers in the hole, and give a little filler into the void.

Where is the cleat going to be relocated? Is it possible to put the trolling motor in across the deck, so you don't have to remove the railing?

What is this modification going to do to the re-sale value of the boat? Are there other options, such as a different mount--which is held in place with removable bolts? (I have that on my 18' "Caracal Cat"-- remove 6 bolts and off comes the 83# trolling motor and its full bracket.

Will removing the railing make the bow less safe if you have to go forward to anchor or dock?
 
thataway":2wbcji8r said:
1: epoxy--thickened, with cabosil and high density filler. tape the bottom, and work epoxy into the hole, until it is over filled,- (tape off the edges around the hole). Then use a Dremel tool or other devices to replicate the non skid diamond pattern on the deck where the bow pulpit legs were bolted. There are "molds" which are patterned and you may find one on the internet. Then either paint, or gel coat over, to match the deck--not easy.
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I feel confident enough to fill the holes but will take it to a professional shop to make it look good,
thataway":2wbcji8r said:
Where is the cleat going to be relocated? Is it possible to put the trolling motor in across the deck, so you don't have to remove the railing?
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The sweep of the trolling motor raising an lowering means no railing. Cleat moved more to bow
thataway":2wbcji8r said:
What is this modification going to do to the re-sale value of the boat? Are there other options, such as a different mount--which is held in place with removable bolts? (I have that on my 18' "Caracal Cat"-- remove 6 bolts and off comes the 83# trolling motor and its full bracket.
Click to expand...
A hit to resale for sure unless sold to a slow trolling fisherpeson. Any mount has to be angled on the small 16 bow real estate to make these changes necessary. A significant reason for this whole exercise is to gain the autopilot features of modern trolling motors, especially when I fish alone.
thataway":2wbcji8r said:
Will removing the railing make the bow less safe if you have to go forward to anchor or dock?
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Less safe, yes. I'll be putting more grab handles on the bow roof overhang and adding grab ropes port & starboard. I don't really feel that safe right now on the bow and the current railings don't give me much confidence.
 
I feel confident enough to fill the holes but will take it to a professional shop to make it look good,
Click to expand...

Be sure to discuss what material you use to fill, with the "professional" before you begin. Unfortunately some "professionals" don't understand the importance of sealing the cored deck. Very few "professionals" use epoxy, or vinyl ester, despite their superior properties, because they are used to using polyester. (and its cheaper).

I was skeptical, but......

There are those who have mounted the trolling motors on the 19 and 22's, leaving the railings in place. I always suggest mocking up any modifications before you make a single hole or pull any railings. Find and look at those mods and see if they can be done on your 16.

trolling motor mounted on a 19

20140307_140933_resized_1.jpg

I would at least see if you can make a mock up before you start.
 
thataway":1y3722oq said:
I I always suggest mocking up any modifications before you make a single hole or pull any railings. Find and look at those mods and see if they can be done on your 16.
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Agreed. The bow cleat has to be relocated no matter what. I get the trolling motor and mount next week and will measure 3 times before I do anything serious. Remember, there us much less to work with on a 16.
 
Moving the bow cleat is going to be far easier and cleaner than removing the railing--yep, I am well aware of the room--but at least check the possibility before you go further.
 
Don't know of the dimensional problem first hand, but could you leave the bow rail in place, add a large, sturdy, wide bowsprit, and mount the trolling motor on that?
May be a crazy idea, but there must be a simpler way to get this done without taking the bow rail off, etc., etc., I'd trade for a 19 before tearing my boat apart....(?)

I mounted a engine mounted tolling motor on my 22 to get electric trolling in a simplified form. This might work really well on a small boat like the 16. I was very happy with mine. You steer with the main motor. Simpler! Cheaper, too! Photos start HERE in my album. Here's a LINK to the installation discussion.

IM001237.jpg

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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