Need trailer advice

G

ghone

New member
Hi C Brats. I've come to the end of my rope on trailers and have tied a knot. Road Runner tandem with surge brakes. 22,000 miles of towing 4 years old. Maintained by Kal Tire here in Nanaimo and tire shops along our travels. Bearings done at least annually. For the 5th time at least, my wheels are all locked ON after launch, rinse and stored a few weeks. The last time it did this it was taken to Kal Tire on a flat bed truck. All brakes serviced all ok. A couple times since when locked up I got them free by banging on wheels. Today the thing won't budge, brakes serviced in August this year.
My confidence in this trailer is now gone. It would not do to come back to a frozen up trailer while out remote somewhere.
Do I convert this unit to disc brakes, toss this unit, buy a new trailer from Les at EQ and import it to Canada? Who makes the most reliable boat trailer? I want it. Thanks to all of you.
 
Relatively limited salt water dunking experience here but....I have done a lot of brake jobs of vehicles old and new for more years than you might guess. The disc type is much easier to access in a pinch. You can often reach right into the caliper with a slotted screwdriver to unstick a pad and that alone makes then easier to live with. Never had one seize up that I couldn't easily reach and get moving again, at least for the moment. I know your pain with drums in general.

Greg
 
George, We now have the same milage as you on our EZ loader model TEZB 19-22/24, all trouble free, though I will be changing tires & bearings before our next spring Alaska trip. I bought this made in 2007 year trailer as new in 2010 & before purchase had the dealer make sure it was equipped with electric over hydraulic disk brakes, torsion bar axels, oil bath hubs standard, boat guides & C rated tires that gives it a carrying weight of 4700 pounds & gross weight of trailer & boat of 5900 pounds, which gives all the weight latitude needed to not worry about weight added to the boat on the road. You could purchase a similar trailer for a good deal of $'s or just have the brake's converted if the rest of your present trailer has been ok for you.

Jay
 
George,
My EZ-Loader under my C-Dory also had similar problems. I use the trailer so infrequently, that it only exasperates the brake freeze-up problems. Last year I bit the bullet and ordered and installed disc brakes with a new coupler (with solenoid already installed). The installation took me a total of 3 hours and now I could not be happier. The trailer tows and brakes wonderfully. I was so happy with the change, that I did the same thing to my Pacific trailer for my Corsair trimaran several months ago... Again about 3 hours to make the change and it tows wonderfully.
 
One thought is that if there are no issues with the frame and geometry, you might just upgrade systems. That's what I did when I bought my boat (trailer was good design but had original systems which were old/neglected). I put on all new brakes, lines, coupler, bunks, lights, winch, bearings, tires and probably more that I'm forgetting. Thing is, in many (most?) cases I used better components than might have come on a new trailer. Kodiak disc brakes, Timken Bearings, cypress bunks/monel staples, non-steel brake lines (hoses), LED lights, better wiring, heftier winch, etc. etc.

Just something to consider if you like the frame/geometry etc. on your trailer.
 
Sunbeam":2pc2fdt1 said:
One thought is that if there are no issues with the frame and geometry, you might just upgrade systems. That's what I did when I bought my boat (trailer was good design but had original systems which were old/neglected). I put on all new brakes, lines, coupler, bunks, lights, winch, bearings, tires and probably more that I'm forgetting. Thing is, in many (most?) cases I used better components than might have come on a new trailer. Kodiak disc brakes, Timken Bearings, cypress bunks/monel staples, non-steel brake lines (hoses), LED lights, better wiring, heftier winch, etc. etc.

Just something to consider if you like the frame/geometry etc. on your trailer.
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That is what I am doing with Wild Blue's trailer. 8 years old and has been sitting out in Anacortes for the last 1 1/2 years, everything is quite corroded on the brake system.
I just ordered 4 new Kodiak disc brake kits and new flexible lines from Eastern Marine Trailer Superstore for $823 delivered here out west. I suspect the bearings are not Timken and will have to decide about that when they get here, those at least should be available locally.
 
You might talk to the guys who serviced the trailer. Since it came in on another trailer, I assume they did see the brakes were locked. What did they have to do to get the trailer off the trailer and unlock the brakes?

If nothing, then suspect the hydraulics, which would have a chance to bleed down/off until it got to the repair shop. If that's what the problem is, try a new surge brake assembly. Beats going to disk, though I love disk brakes.

If they said that the drums were stuck, then consider an upgrade. Drums have been used for years, no obvious reason why they should lock up. There's no metal to metal contact between the linings and drums.

The tire shop are the ones who got it working. What did they have to do?

Boris
 
Lost Petrel":3l38oxex said:
I just ordered 4 new Kodiak disc brake kits and new flexible lines ... I suspect the bearings are not Timken and will have to decide about that when they get here, those at least should be available locally.
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That's what I got and, indeed, the bearings that came with them were no-names. No way for me to know the quality level. So I took them along to a bearing house and got the corresponding Timken/made in USA ones, which I am comfortable with. I put the Timkens on the trailer and consigned the others to the spares pile.
 
If you are going to continue to trailer for longer trips I would say go with Kodiak disc brakes and electric over hydraulic. It's so much better. Our trailer is an 2009 and we use it mostly to launch in salt water. I'd guess it has close to 40,000 miles on it. I service the wheel bearings, clean and repack with grease, replace grease seals and replace the brake pads annually just for good measure. It takes 1990 Chevy Cavalier front brake pads. Still on the original wheel bearings. We have Kodiak brakes and probably next year I will replace the rotors. But the Kodiak's have worked flawlessly with no parts replaced except for some rubber coated brake lines that got chaffed from rubbing. I upgraded my electric over hydraulic to a 1600 psi unit. Our brakes never worked better. Remember you'll never see a Brinks truck in heaven. I'd get your trailer serviced and sell it. Then order one with all the right stuff from the gitgo.
I'd recommend the torsion bar type suspension with radial tires and get the tires balanced.They ride better. Kodiak brakes with the Dacromet coating on the rotors and calipers or just go all stainless$ and the electric over hydraulic 1600 psi electric brake controller unit.WWW.trailerpartssuperstore.com Type in Kodiak brakes in the product search data field. If you like your trailer then just get the upgrade to Kodiak brakes with either Dacromet coating or stainless with electric over hydraulic 1600 psi unit. Drum brakes and salt water are just plain bad medicine. Been there done that. JMHO
D.D.
 
Wow! Thanks so much people. We're all in the same boat (literally) when it comes to trailers! Likely I need to go see Les at EQ and get a new King trailer with the works. On this trailer I only know that it was dragged off the flatdeck at the repair yard and the mechanic had some fun getting the drums off. Heat and beat. Obviously disc is preferred over drum and electric/hyd over surge. Thanks so much for the info people. C brats are the best. Will keep you posted.
George
 
This was also my year for trailer woes also. failed hub, bearing and broken trailing arm on torsion suspension. Fixed by Kal tire only for the brake and bearing to fail again in 2 months. Kal tire replaced all parts new under warranty brakes, hubs. I had a tandem King trailer that I really liked on my last boat. Available from EQ but not in Canada.

Sherwood Marine sells Tuff Trailers they look OK. The Roadrunners don't seem to be as well made as they used to be, but they are the cheapest.

Sounds like your best option is to replace your brakes on the Roadrunner if the rest is satisfactory.
 
As suggested you definitely need disc brakes - the question is whether a new trailer comes with them or not :)

I'm with Hunkydory on the electric-over-hydraulic (EoH) brakes, unless I suppose, you have a massive tow vehicle. Our 23 Venture is pushing 6000 lbs loaded and despite twin axle disc brakes I do not feel confident that a panic stopping situation would end happily. Let alone the fact that when you back down a steep ramp you only have the truck brakes.

So I'm gather the EoH components to do the conversion now. The Titan BrakeRite II components cost about $900. Pacific trailer makes a nice mounting stand to hang all the components on (http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Custom-Mounting-Stand-for-Titan-Brake-Rite-Actuators/). I was quoted $2400 by a local shop to do the conversion so I imagine adding it as an option to a new trailer would be somewhere in between.
 
Thanks guys. I have a bunch of calls out so should be hearing some things today. I'm thinking my surge coupler is bad, and pulled the brakes on while stored. There is zero slack at the coupler, not even a wiggle. It seems odd. To convert to disc needs a new coupler anyway if I do surge disc or eoh Thanks for the cheer up folks. I'm in good company anyway. George
 
Progress. I had my engine mechanic lined up for my 350 hour service this week. Had to phone and postpone as trailer wasn't doing trailer things. He suggested the banging on the drum routine. Told him I done that. Then he showed me the correct way to do it. 3-5 lb hammer in right hand, 3/4 brass round stock drift in left hand. Place drift in the the spokes of the wheel on the front and back of the drum where the shoes go. You want to smack the heavy cast iron drum to break the shoes free Without injuring yourself, deal the drift several mighty blows. I went to my trailer armed with new knowledge and borrowed items. After 45 minutes of mighty blows all 4 wheels were turning. Stiffly but turning. My mechanic said most brake shops only back off the shoes 5-6 clicks from a fully out brake. In his experience it is more like 10-12 clicks. Otherwise the slightly metallic shoes rust to the drum. I had a long chat with Mike at Road Runner trailer and he concurs. I asked how come no disc brake option in this size trailer? He intimated that the products were designed and passed government of Canada standards and were not required at this weight category. Ie price point. I could convert coupler and brakes to disc and thereby be in non compliance to standards. Properly adjusted these old style brakes should be foolproof and I'll bet most brake shops don't know how loose they should be. I'll know more in a few days. For now I'm going to go with my mechanics decades of experience and let him tweak my trailer. I must say both Port Boathouse Mike and Road Runner Mike are concerned about my trailer and are in dialogue with me for a solution. My feelings about RR trailers are kinder today than yesterday! Will keep you posted. George
 
ghone" I could convert coupler and brakes to disc and thereby be in non compliance to standards. [/quote said:
Glad to hear you have found a probable solution (and a cause you can eliminate), but I don't understand the above. I would think discs/coupler would be an upgrade (in performance as well as maintainability) and so I don't understand how it would be non-compliant to standards (granted, I'm not Canadian, but you all strike me as being pretty logical).
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I read with interest all the postings about trailers and brakes recently. I have a very simple solution when it comes to trailer brakes, that has served me well over the years. True, I boat in fresh water, but I have also towed over salted roads. Straight electric brakes. Efficient, safe, relatively inexpensive. No expensive EOH pumps/motors, no hydraulic coupler failures, etc. As far as salt water goes, if you are running drums anyway, with a good set of electric brakes, you'll be no worse off on wear and tear, but maintenance will be easier. And yes, on rare occasion I have had the locking wheel (note, not wheel's, but wheel!) after the trailer has sat a while, but not often, and they have always broke free with a bit of a tug. (And usually only if I have adjusted them to tightly.) Then again, I maintain by brakes by checking them occasionally and pulling the wheels every few years. If you have the money, go ahead and spend it on the expensive systems... :-) But if you are looking for a cost efficient system that works and fairly easy to maintain, I will continue to recommend all electric brakes over anything else! If you run in salt, yeah, you'll have to wash them down frequently, just like any thing else that is not aluminum or galvanized! Colby
 
Just to follow up with results. After weighing a lot of options including trading in my trailer for a new one, we decided to just go with the trailer we know. My mechanic found all shoes corroding off and some in pieces with a lot of rust. This was all new 2 years ago as I rebuilt the brakes in Yuma Az. Not being able to really flush salt out lead me to bite the bullet and upgrade. I had a local shop upgrade to Titan Disc brakes with a 1600 psi Atwood surge coupler with a reverse lockout lever built in. Much more robust looking coupler than the old. Should do the trick. The discs will be simple to flush. Thanks for all the info c brats!
George
 
Nifty! If you think of it, it would be interesting to hear your impressions while you still have the feel of your "old rig" fresh in your mind as compared to the new version.

I never used my trailer the old way (the coupler was so bad I had to do something right away), so I only know it with Kodiak discs on both axles and a good surge coupler (with solenoid lockout). I can say I like it.
 
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