Need trailer advice

Since I will be putting brake systems on both of my trailers in the next few weeks, I have been thinking over the wash off brake situation.

There are two videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTI9KnVgnRM

http://trailerspa.biz/?page_id=29

and a web site:

http://trailerspa.biz

Basically this looks like a low flow spray system, with a garden sprayer, or garden hose hooked up to one point on the trailer. I suspect that a similar setup can be done fairly easily. I would focus only on the brakes, not the entire hull and trailer frame. I have been using a garden sprayer to clean the brakes and frame for a number of years--not that difficult to hook the garden sprayer up to a tubing system, as illustrated in the videos.

Disc brakes traditionally have been easiest wash off, but you often have both the fenders and boat in the way. Drum brakes can be accessed with one point and a hole drilled in the backing plate of the shoe retainer plate, but there seem to be more issues with seizing of the shoes onto the drums.
 
I explored adding the flush kit thru the backing plate but both the dealer and mechanic said they didn't seem to help much. The dealer said there are few issues in Port Alberni as everybody launches in the river. That's the best flush. I'll see how it handles with the boat on next week as we go in for engine service.
 
I've started to spray the disk brakes on Journey On with Salt Away. Works a lot better than just hosing them down with fresh water. The best is that, having a small sprayer in the back of the truck, I can spray those brakes just after it comes out of the water, when I launch and again when I retrieve.

Another comment. I'm not sure how brake shoes can rust to the drum. The have copper imbedded (or used to,) and copper may corrode, but can't rust to the drum. It's probably the show backing plate and other iron hardware in there. The new shoes are now ceramic.

Boris
 
Boris, In Calif. and Wa. the use of copper has been basically outlawed for environmental reasons. "Ceramic" can be almost anything--in today's world. Fe is still used in brake linings, even including steel wool.

Even without metalic/particulate iron in the brake pad material, particulate rust will get into the shoe--and then with moisture it will form more iron oxide, and then adhere to the drum--more moisture in high humidity environment -- especially with salt which will attract moisture--eventually the drum rusts and freezes to the shoe.

See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvKwct3HsIo You don't have to watch the entire video--the first few seconds shows the issue...
 
Just pulled the boat to take in for engine service. Only a few miles so far but the load seems easier to tow. Maybe my old drums were dragging for much of the time. Trailer tows strait, my only concern is when loaded the front axle seems more heavily loaded with the frame rail within a half inch of the brake assembly not leaving much for bumps. The back axle is more like an inch and a quarter. I will measure for level as it's pretty close by eye but it may ride more level with a 1-2" rise on the hitch. Giving more clearance for the brake assy. We're getting there! George
 
I have an EZ loader for my Tom Cat. Bought the trailer separate from the boat 5 years ago. It had been used for salt water launches by previous owner, with iffy fresh water wash offs.

Found oil sealed wheel bearings OK, but surge system disc brakes thoroughly corroded and locking up, just like you described. Also found master cylinder corroded, and a lot of the hyd. lines worn, rusty or incapable of sustained pressure.

Replaced entire wheel bearing, brake system, and new master cylinder. Replaced all brake lines. Cost about $3,500. Expensive, but cheaper than new trailer.

Since then have avoided salt water launches whenever possible, but when dunked in salt water have thoroughly washed off system with garden hose, the sprayed it down with WD40...something we regularly use on amphib float airplanes in salt water.

WD 40 breaks down whatever residual salt water exist, and gives everything a slight uncorrosive treatment. The amount of 'oil' is minimal, and does effect braking after the first couple of stops.

Just returned from 2800 mile trip from WA to AZ for the Lake Powell meeting. Had system checked before we left, mechanic says wheels and brakes are 'like new'. No problem on the trip.

I would spend some serious money on the brakes, before spending even more serious money on a new trailer.
 
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