"neutralizing" salt water

C

cruiserlessvinny

New member
I've heard of a homebrew recipe that is said to be equivilant to a product that is said to neutralize salt water. Or at least the corrosive effects it has on metal.

This recipe revolved around getting an MSDS sheet for the product in question and finding out that it was essentially, if I recall correctly, acetic acid (vinegar) and water and included a recipe for a homebrew said to accomplish the same thing as the high priced store bought product.

If someone knows of the product or, more specifically the homebrew recipe, would they please post it. I'm headed to salt water in a couple of weeks and want to be prepared when I return.

Thanks,
CV
 
I've always used a trip to salt as an excuse for a fresh water ride when we get home. Might not be a magical salt killing home brew but it gets me on the boat for an extra day.
 
Just flushing your motors within a hour of pulling it out of the salt will go a long way. Its when the salt drys that you have problems. I flush the motors with fresh water at the dock as soon as i get back. If on the trailer I use the hose at the ramp. Everett marina ramp has a wash down rack for free. Or i do it as soon as I get home. its important that you let the motor run long enough to warm up and open the thermostat so water will flow thru the head.

when at anchor or a dock I leave the motor in. raising the motor will only allow the air to dry any salt water in the motor.
 
Google is my friend: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/171252-saltaway-substitute.html

Salt Away MSDS sheet says:
"Sulfamic Acid < 5.00 % "
Similar to vinegar which is acedic acid. You can buy a lot of sulfumic acid for the price of a gallon of Salt-Away. Buy it at Home Depot in the tile section. Its used for cleaning grout.
Click to expand...

It's sulfamic acid here:
http://www.western-environmental.com...way%20msds.pdf

You could probably use "Scrubbing Bubbles" in a bucket of water. Look under Applications here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfamic_acid
Click to expand...
 
Salt a way does not "neutralize" salt water, it just helps to dissolve any salt crystals. There are a number of acids which will do this. Salt a way does contain sulfamic acid (HSO8NH2) Ka 1.01 x 10−1 and is a bit stronger than Acetic acid (CH3COOH) Ka 1.8 x 10-5. However acids like hydrochloric (Muriatic HCL) Ka 1.3 x 10 +6 are much stronger. The weak acids are used to dissolve out any crystals which have adhered in the engine cooling system. Normally washing the engine with fresh water, will help to prevent any crystallization of salts in the engine passages. If you are using an engine in salt water, and cannot flush with fresh water for some time, it is good to carry some one of the materials to pump into the engine after use and allow to sit overnight. You can use a garden sprayer, adapted to a hose bib to attach the the engine flushing port. On the other hand, are your going to carry several gallons of the liquid, or solid acid, and mix it with your fresh water supply?

In places like the PNW there are a number of bays and rivers where the salt content is very low, and it is like flushing the engine with fresh water when you run in these areas.

Some of the problems with flushing: Some engines can not be run when just a hose is attached. Will the thermostat be open or closed--and a thermostat is a critical area where salt may build up. How about the water pump? Many flushing ports do not flush the impeller, so it may be better to use "Muffs" than the port.

I have occasionally used "Salt away". I did once buy a used motor, which had salt build up,and we had to tear it down, clean some passages with HCL (but you don't want to leave HCL in contact with aluminum). We did use salt a way after that incident with that engine.
 
I built a flushing tank from a discarded piece of 24" diameter concrete sonotube and a piece of plywood for the base. I like it better than muffs. Tomorrow I will pu a free piece of 24" diameter plastic drain tube from a highway project. This should last for years
 
I have a 2005 Honda 75 and I have been wondering what difference it makes whether I use the ear muffs are use the adapter that fits a garden hose. I do not have the adapter and have not ever thought I needed it ??
 
Thanks for all the replies. This'll be the "Nancy Gs" first time in salt water since the rebuild and the first time ever for the 8 year old new to me Yamaha 70; just being a bit over protective.

CV
 
I am NOT a mechanic, and don't even pretend to be one on weekends, but my well seasoned boat mechanic told me something like (I can't remember exactly) the newer 4 strokes don't get hot enough to dissolve the salt in the water thus they flush much easier with plain water and suffer much less corrosion than motors in the past.

Okay, I realize that is very fuzzy so I'm hoping someone who actually knows something about this subject replies and confirms or corrects me.

Just for the record, I use my boat exclusively in salt water and I religiously flush the engine after every use, but just with fresh water through the hose connector. My motor is a 2010 Yamaha.
 
Sarge":cgau7u5a said:
...the newer 4 strokes don't get hot enough to dissolve the salt in the water thus they flush much easier with plain water and suffer much less corrosion than motors in the past.
Click to expand...

This seems fishy to me since I believe salt is already dissolved in sea water at normal temperatures. I think that anything that comes in contact with sea water that is subsequently allowed to evaporate is going to be coated in salt crystals.
 
The salt (various chemicals--mostly sodium chloride --is in solution fully dissolved in "salt water". When water stands and evaporates (due to heat) salt crystals are left behind. The operating temperatures of modern 4 stroke engines are in the 170 to 190 degrees F range. Water is not boiling, but will evaporate at these temps. However, with good water flows, even cooling (meaning that the impeller is in good condition), and a good flush with fresh water after use, the engine should do fine for many years. The bigger concern is engines which are used in salt water, boat is kept in the water, and the engine is not flushed after use. One other concern is that the area of the impeller is also flushed. This is not subject to hot water, since the intake water from the sea is cool. But it is nice to be able to flush out the impeller and housing/passages. Ideally you would have the thermostat open when running the fresh water thru the engine. Some engines do not allow running the engine on the "hose flush"--and thus allowing the thermostat to open as the engine operating temp increases. Ideally one should run an engine when flushing until the discharge water is warm, and the thermostat has opened.
 
Quality Marine Products.com has a great lineup of flushing
bags. Good workmanship, reasonable, and great service. I
have one for the kicker and one for the 90 hp with the
Permatrim. ( quallitymarineproducts.com ), if anyone wants
to look them over. I found that the DPB-2 works great for
a Suzuki or Johnson 90 hp, 4 stroke, with the Permatrim.
 
I have read that some automotive shops use CLR Cleaner ( Calcium,Line, Rust Remover ) to clean/flush out cars radiator systems so it should be ok to use on your outboard.I bought some CLR last year but never tried it out, will this Fall.Tug
 
CLR also has several of the medium acids: Lactic Acid and Gluconic Acid. Somewhat similar to the Salt Away product. Probably more expensive than using simple acids available at Home supply or paint stores....
 
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