New boatman. Need some help.

I recognize your project.

I didn't have any adhesive at the top of the panels. In fact, some of the screws there were loose and starting to fall out. The panel was actually loose at the top. On mine, those screws went into a "bump" hanging down from the deck. It appeared to be a piece of fir that was glassed under the deck to give a fastening point to the screws and the holes were beginning to strip out from the panel flexing. It could be that somebody had remedied a similar situation on your boat by using adhesive and reinstalling the screws.

You might be able to slide a putty knife in from the front and see what you're up against. I used a putty knife and razor knife all around the floor because I had a bead of mostly failing caulking there, but no caulking where those screws are.

I assume that you have already removed the four rivets at the top of the panel aft of those screws?

When I replaced my panels, I had to inject epoxy putty into those screw holes to make sure that I had something for the screws to hold on to. I've pounded the boat pretty good since then and they seem to be holding.

Mark
 
Hello,

The foam injected behind the panel may be causing the problem. it adheres pretty strongly. You may have to make a bladed tool out of a material softer than the fiberglass and work it along the hull to break it loose.

Good luck.
 
Mark, I did take the rivets out of the area aft the subject, and will use your idea when I reinstall. I'm following your lead from your previous posts and am very glad that you responded. Tomorrow I'm going to try and remove the throttle linkage from the starboard side. I think I have to reach around and secure the nuts while backing the screws out of throttle housing, then take a picture for reassembly. I hope I don't find the disaster you found in the core.

Spuncopper, thanks for your input. I'll try and find plastic putty knife or some other soft thin material when I try and remove Portside tomorrow.

Again thanks for responding all.

tonight:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9mqpi ... sp=sharing

Scott
 
Scott and spuncopper,

My 2005 CD16 didn't have spray-in foam anywhere. It had cut blocks of EPS. I think spray foam came later. Spray foam can lock things in place. I used it after putting things back together to give the boat a more solid feel. I still have a few spots to inject foam. I'm using a foam gun with a 3' extension of tubing to allow me to get foam into places where a gun/can can't fit.

Removing the throttle/engine electrical was actually the most unnerving part of it. The throttle/transmission levers have some small spacers, etc. I could have saved myself an hour of screwing around if I had labeled or taken pictures. I checked closely that the electrical connections were properly color coded before taking them apart. As I recall, I had one that was something like blue to yellow, but since it was the only outlyer, it wasn't a problem.

My throttle unit was through-bolted to the starboard panel. I thought that was strange, as the decision to go Yamaha must have been made at the factory. With the panel installed and foam blocks behind it, it didn't look like it could have been a dealer install. When re-installing, I went with oversized SS wood screws through the panel instead of bolts. I just couldn't see the need for putting three big bolts back in (and requiring the entire panel removed) when the throttle unit might need parts or lubrication in the future.

Have you pulled any of the deck rivets? Did they have the scary corrosion problem that mine had?

Mark

101_0393.jpg
 
I removed the throttle assembly, took pictures and labeled all disconnects. The long bolts were very challenging. Like you said, they were installed from panel to conduit. I left a couple nuts in the conduit. I broke loose the bottom of the starboard panel all-around. It's well attached at the top just like the port side. There might be a chance that it's just the upper trim that's glued. I'm going to try again tomorrow. The panels have to come out if I want a seaworthy deck. I hope I don't have to cut in the panel. I will just take it easy, I'm hoping for the best. Once the panels are out, I will be able to replace a couple of rivets with bolts on the stern corner rub rails. I stopped by the outboard repair shop to see if they wanted to help me get the controller out and then back in when my repair was done. They said $115 an hour both ways. I found a little part broken in the controller. I think it rolls when you shift the control. It's the part that clicks in at neutral. I'll probably have to replace the part. Thanks for checking in with me. Scott
 
I can only guess that the prior owner had the panel come loose and decided that a "screw and glue" was necessary. That doesn't look like anything that C Dory would have done. Poke around in those screw holes and try to figure out what's in there. Maybe a call to CD and see if they are still using the same design. Best I could tell, there was something like scrap wood in there and it couldn't withstand the flexing of the hull against the panel. The panels didn't seem to be a perfect fit here, and the screws sort of torqued them into place. When the screws failed, somebody thought that Liquid Nails was the solution.

Mark
 
Thanks Mark ,

So I successfully stripped out the furniture. Now I'm going to undercut fill the holes today. The question what kind screws or tap machine screws do I use, and then how do I get my prepared holes lineup with the panels holes exactly. My idea is replacing the panel in position,then tapping or pilot holing, and attaching the faster. I have had trouble in this regard and need some advice

Hopefully I won't find rotten wood the core today.
 
Back
Top