New rope to chain splice idea!

Thataway wrote
I will have to admit I was surprised. I used a Ford Excursion as the anchor, with brake set--tied the anchor rode to the tow eyes on the front, and the come along to the trailer hitch on the Honda Pilot. First test, was pulling the Honda Pilot up a 10% grade--no problem, and no strain on the splice.
Click to expand...

I think Bob is trying out for Mythbusters.

I flashed on this mental picture. It reminded me 2AM, dirt parking lots, distant taverns, hooking pickups together with logging chains and seeing who pulled who. (Dodge never won but that was a long time ago).

Mark
 
I use a modified 3-strand rope to chain splice that is shown in this link.
In figure 4. The white strand (that is under the red strand that skips a link) is brought over the red strand and the same for all skipped links. It makes a tighter splice. Don’t know if it is stronger but then I only have a 16’ Cruiser and have 300’ of 3/8th line.
 
Dave-

I guess there are more than one way to skin a cat! (Sorry Catman!)

A variety of ways will probably do the splice, and as long as it works, it's OK!

When you sew all the strands together at all the crossings, it gets pretty tight.

The other issue is to make it such that the abrasion from the windlass chain pockets/rope teeth is minimized by hiding the rope strands of the transition down within the chain links, and not riding out on the chain shoulders.

Lotsa' fun no matter how ya' do it, just like you know what!!!

Joe.
 
Dave,
That is the "usual" way that the rope to chain weave is done. I distinguish the weave from a splice. There is not a lot of wear on any of these splices, nor a lot of wear on the line--which is surprising. When I first got the Sea Horse Windlass in the late 70's I thought that chafe and wear on the line would be a major problem.
 
Update:

July 26, 2009, one month short of three years, and no detectable wear or any problem with the new type splice.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
My current rope/chain splice was getting worn and jammed it the Windlass,in fact my Pressure Arm on my Windlass broke today. I attemped to follow Joe's instructions ( thataway ) and did the two down the chain/one up the rope splice with limited success. Hope it will pass thru the Windlass.
Is it very difficult to replace the " Pressure Arm " on a Windlass. Tug

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0352.jpg
 
The follower arm should not be all that hard to replace. (not sure which windlass you have--photos look like a vertical axis Lewmar?)--usually the capstan has to be removed, and there are 2 to 3 allen key bolts holding the bracket for the follower arm. Pull those bolts, unscrew the capstan (and you need to clean and grease the clutches anyway)...Replace the follower.

You really want that arm in place.
 
I have a Maxwell RC 500 Windlass...just found/read the instructions. The replacement pressure arm doesn't seem to difficult to reinstall.( knock on wood ) . Never-the-less i am off to retrieve the boat from the marina to do the work at home, i am prone to dropping stuff over-board. While i am at it i will cut the new splice off and reverse the rope,than resplice, it did look worn and might as well do the job correctly. Easy job for some but it will take me all day if i am lucky. Tug
 
When we were cruising full time, we cut the rope to chain splice off every year and reversed both the line and chain. You are wise to take the boat out of the water if any risk of loosing parts.
 
Well i brought my boat back to the marina about 2:30 PM today.Wasn't all that easy to install the Pressure Arm,the clip insulator was a puzzle to me. I removed the old clip insulator and installed the new one.I assume that the Pressure Arm Clip slides into the Clip Insulator but no where does it say that.The Pressure Arm Clip doesn't fit into the Clip Insulator.When all else fails get the hammer..i am not sure if i installed it correctly but i positioned the Pressure Arm Clip over the Clip Insulator and gently hammered the Pressure Arm Clip into the Clip Insulator.Snug fit but maybe it is suppose to be..everything works correctly.See photo's in album.
The new splice sailed smoothly thru the Windlass.
On another subject i lowered my Airmar P66 transducer to about 1/4" ,hopefully i this will improve reception. Tug
 
thataway":nz802hab said:
Mike,
I think that with the proper siezing and some heat shrink, Joe's would do fine in 30 to 40 knots with the C Dory--but I am sticking to my tried and true 3 strand over the chain splice
http://www.neropes.com/splice/sp72_3-st ... _chain.htm
--since I don't have any problems with the windlass jamming. Joe has a different windlass, and I do belive that in his case, he will do better with the rope to chain weave, similar to what he devised. However I would weave the third strand down the chain, either split or whole, as in the illustrations:
http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html
Click to expand...

The link is dead but found a pdf file on the same site
http://www.neropes.com/Splicing%20Guide ... SPLICE.pdf
 
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