New (to me) boat! Rub rail question

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evergreen199

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Joined
Jun 29, 2026
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Location
San Juan Islands
C Dory Year
1993
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Today is a very exciting day, we bought our 1993 22' Cruiser (Pippa) and brought her home🎉!!

During the drive home, the rub rails on both sides separated a bit from the hull in spots. I know this boat hasn't been trailered anywhere in at least 4-5 years (other than 1 block from the water to the boat storage when the previous owners hauled it out each winter), so driving home on country roads didn't do the old rub rail rivets any favors and I'm guessing that caused a few to snap.

I've read the threads on rub rail replacement and that process seems straight forward, but my question is whether there is any urgency to replace or if I can get the boat in the water to enjoy for a few months before I pull it out for the winter and then do this project? The rails are still attached along much of their length and at the ends, so I am not worried they are going to fall off. Are the rivets serving a structural purpose connecting the hull to the top deck that needs to be fixed before I put the boat in the water?
 

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No the rub rail rivets are not holding the hull to deck moldments. They do hide the joint however. The fiberglass on the inside is structural. I might put a little sealant (as it appears has been done before) on the top of the railing. (Water can also enter from the bottom.) This winter take off all of the railing, clean up the hull--and that is why I don't recomment silicone. It may keep other sealents from adhering to the fiberglass. Then you can use a proper sealant as you drill out the rivets and use SS machine screws and washer/nuts. Then you can cover the inside of the screws/nuts with either a sealant or fiberglass.
 
My rub rails are doing the same thing. The aluminum rivets are breaking and rub rail is having gaps from the hull. I was concerned with dissimilar metals of the stainless steal hardware and aluminum frame of the rub rail from galvanic corrosion (used mostly in salt water). I don't want the rub rail frame to become a anode. From what I understand the preventative measure is to seal the metals and use rubber or plastic washers. Even if the metals touch the electrical conductor factor would be mostly removed. I have read several threads on rub rails and haven't seen many using any kind of washer where the metals are in direct contact. I had thought using aluminum rivets as factory they lasted 25 or so years. I think it would be better using SS screws, washer, nylon ss locking nut, and a plastic washer where the bolt meets the aluminum frame of rub rail and seal with 4200. I am hoping once this is completed I'm good for many years and didn't wish I had done something else later. I had thought about replacing whole rub rail with complete rubber design which would take minor bumps where the aluminum may bend.

Thanks
Lynwood White
 
One of my rub rails got torn up against a dock. I'd consider replacing it if I can find a piece of the metal rail long enough to do the side in one piece (like the original installation).
 
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