new windlass for Traveler

I also have been following the threads with interest and plan to add a windlass to Lochsa. Based on input so far, I have it narrowed to the H700 or H1000. I am still a bit reluctant because there are many negative reviews critical mostly of water intrusion and corrosion due to poor sealing surfaces. Can anyone push me over the edge with current experience. Thanks.
 
I guess it depends on where you boat and how often you anchor. If you boat from marina to marina with only an occasional anchoring in water 20' deep or less then maybe the investment is not especially needed. I think it also depends on your age and health. If you are young with a strong back and in moderately good health, (A floating definition if there ever was one.) then maybe, again, the investment is not needed. And, it also depends on the amount of singlehanding you do, if you usually have someone else on board who can handle the boat while you are on the bow or who could bring the boat around to you if you had the misfortune to go OFF the bow, then the investment might not .....and so on. Our V700 has been a substantial improvement over my going out on the bow to anchor or, more importantly, to retrieve. Is it perfect? No certainly not. Am I (and my wife) glad we have it? You bet.
 
Ready to begin the install of the Lewmar H700. Does anyone have advice or photos for positioning the windlass? It looks to me that either the existing cleat or anchor chaining locking device will need to be relocated or removed. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance, ken
 
I've been collecting info because I'm probably going to install one of these in the near future. From what I could see, just about everyone had it in the same place, fore-and-aft, and they all kept the original bow cleat (although it was close). I presume it's positioned as far aft as possible -- for maximum "drop" of the rode yet still ahead of the anchor locker bulkhead.

George Hone's Kerri-on album has a good sub-album showing the installation and positioning (as do others, but his comes to mind).

Link to the sub-album:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

A couple of photos from the sub-album:

Picture_729.jpg

Picture_730.sized.jpg

Edited to add: You know, now that I look at it, I think Kerri-on's 700H might be positioned a bit further forward than some other ones, so that shows there is some leeway forward/aft. Now of course I have to look :D

Okay, here is Voyager's for comparison. I believe it is a bit further aft. These both look like top-notch installations to me.

IMG_1239.jpg

IMG_1237.jpg

Link to the Voyager sub-album that includes the windlass installation (and more photos):

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
 
Things to think about are a backing plate--aluminum 1/4 or 3/8" is probably best. The hole in the deck and back up plate made with hole saw.

I suggest that all of the holes be routed out, undercut and filled with epoxy.

Also I tend to grind down the non skid to give a better surface for the gasket material.
 
Nice job Sunbeam. I kept the windlass ahead a bit to give good access to the cleat. I just run the rode over the windlass to the cleat, with slack to the gypsy. I undercut and epoxy filled all holes as Bob suggests and used a big sheet of UHD plastic 3/8 thick under the whole foredeck area to distribute loads. I used big fender washers instead of the supplied teeny ones. Grinding off the non skid is a good idea. Thought about it and couldn't bring myself to do it. Tough enough to bore these holes. I love this windlass! We retrieve several times a day sometimes. Saves the arms and back. George.
 
I installed our new Lewmar H700 using George's photos & write up including the UHD plastic for backing & found it all extremely helpful.

The Windless is the one thing I really never thought I would install, but when finally making the go a head decision, went all the way & included a wireless remote. I used it last year in Yellowstone Lake & lake Powell & now consider it money & time well spent. I'm really looking forward to our next Southeast Alaska Cruise where I have no doubt the new set up will make the many anchor deploys a much more safe & enjoyable experience.

Jay
 
Hunkydory":3d6ovfta said:
... went all the way & included a wireless remote.
Click to expand...

Seeing that remote in action at Lake Powell added a few hundred dollars to my windlass project :cry

Seriously though: Super slick and useful. I'm definitely going to include that when I add the windlass :thup
 
George and Jay, what chain and rode did you find for best performance for the H700? Also, what was your source for the UHD plastic?

Great info everyone. Much appreciated. I am about ready to lay into it with the hole saw. ken
 
Ken, I actually used HDPE plastic that I bought on line. I don't have that web address now, but here is another that sells it for much less than I payed. http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plas ... boards/385

The chain I selected is Acco 1/4 inch G-4 & the rode Yale 8 brait 1/2 inch both of which are recommended by Lewmar for the H700 & worked out well for me & luckily so, due to both of these being purchased in lengths of 50 foot of chain & 250 feet of rode along with a Manson Supreme 15 pound anchor before I decided to install the Windless too.

At this point my regret is not deciding on the complete combination before making the total purchase, because I now think a 25 pound Manson Surpreme Anchor to be a even better choice than the 15 pound one with the kind of conditions we could encounter in our choice of places to cruise. The reason for selecting the 15 at the time I did was it was about the max, I could handle with 50 feet of chain by hand. Several, including Sam on the Retriever highly recommended that combination, which I still believe to be quite adequate, it's just, I believe my future sleep at anchorage would be better with the 25, when the wind is really whistling & the bottom holding type not the best.

Jay
 
I got the UHD at a local Plastic shop store. Similar to cutting board plastic. Anything rigid will be good. Aluminum and wood ply are used also. I use a 22 lb Lewmar claw with 45 ft of 1/4 inch Grade 4 Hi Test chain spliced to 220 ft of 1/2 inch New England 3 strand which is one type Lewmar calls for. Good sleeps. Enjoy the project. George
 
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