Oil changes on long cruises.

R

Roy & Dixie

New member
Our engine is a F80 Yamaha. Recommended oil change is every year or 100hr, filter change every other oil change. On our cruise from Daytona FL to upper Potomac beyond DC, then return, we had reached 100 hr just as we headed back home and docked for a couple days outside DC. Draining oil was very tricky from cockpit. We had backed into the slip, but the dock was too high to reach the oil drain plug. We raised the engine so oil would not drain when the plug was removed. We had the fear of dropping the drain plug, which would have been a disaster. Then we lowered the engine in steps and caught the oil in small, large mouth containers that we could cap and carry with us until we reached a disposal site. This is not a smooth operation. The engine angle changes too quickly to be able to keep the catch container in place without possibility of some oil loss. Standing behind the engine with boat on a trailer and trying to do the same thing leaning from within the cockpit, over the water is 2 different things. We got it done, but decided this was not the way we would ever do it again. After we returned home, I got a fitting that would screw into the drain hole after removing the plug and connect to a length of tubing. The diameter is small and the oil flows out slowly, but this can all be put into place with the engine raised, then lower the engine all the way and let the oil drain into a large container. This works well for me on land and it seems it would be a better method to use if in the water at a dock. Other methods I have thought of are:

Pump oil from dip stick hole. But I have never been able to get all the oil from the sump doing it this way. I once had an inboard sail boat and this was the only method available due to engine installation position. I've not tried to do this with the Yamaha yet.

Anchor along the bank, stern in to shore, and stand behind the boat in several inches of water.

What other suggestions might be offered?

How critical is the 100 hr oil change. If all the hours are at mid rpm and within several weeks, could those hours actually reach 300hr with no engine damage?
 
Here's my opinion. Let me assure you that others WILL differ. But I've never has any problems due to lack of engine maintenance.

The first 100 hrs are reasonably important. However, after that just try to do it as close as possible to the recommended times. I think, for the small motors in an outboard (it isn't a Cevvy V-8) clean oil is important, but 50-100 hours off can be tolerated. Always replace the filter.

Whilst you're on a trip, it's being run on a regular basis, so the oil is filtered and volatiles are being driven off by the engines heat. What hurts is when you run it for a short time, so the oil stays fairly cold. That's killed many a small diesel auxiliary.

We had a sailboat, and pumping that oil out was always a thrill. The outboard is a lot easier. So, I'd wait until you're on a trailer.

Boris
 
For what it's worth my 2011 Suzuki 90A Service Manual requires changing the filter only every other oil change. I use the dipstick pump method with great success with the engine in the down position.
Roger
 
Roger,

The Honda manual says to change the oil every 100 hrs or twice a year and the filter every 200 hrs or once a year. So Suzuki and Honda agree. So my suggestion of a filter change with every oil change is more than the factory requires.

Now I believe in fresh and clean oil, especially for smaller engines, such as motorcycles and generators. That philosophy has worked well for me. Also, when I'm cruising, I tend to change the oil when we come home, which may be more than 100 hrs. Add to that, the oil now costs $35 for a change ( 7 qt x $5,) throwing in an oil filter is a small effort. A new Honda 150 must cost over $12K and a little overkill on maintenance is a small price to pay for durability.

I also change the fuel injection filters regularly and buy genuine Honda anodes, because they're not zinc.

Fortunately for me, the Honda 150 outboard is an adaptation of a car engine, so I use good car filters, which one can get at a discount. Not true for the kicker.

Boris
 
"Overkill on maintenance is a small price to pay for durability"
I agree completely! Oil, filters, zincs, and fresh water rinse whenever possible.
Roger
 
Roy & Dixie":122a76js said:
Our engine is a F80 Yamaha.
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I had missed seeing this post earlier. I have the same engine, so always interested to read your posts :thup

Roy & Dixie":122a76js said:
We had the fear of dropping the drain plug, which would have been a disaster.
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Wouldn't that be awful :shock: I was thinking I would order a spare, just in case that ever happened (already did the same for the prop!).

Roy & Dixie":122a76js said:
After we returned home, I got a fitting that would screw into the drain hole after removing the plug and connect to a length of tubing.
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That sounds like an excellent fitting to have aboard. Can you point to what exactly you bought? Thanks!
 
That sounds like an excellent fitting to have aboard. Can you point to what exactly you bought? Thanks!

Sunbeam, I went to my local hardware store with the drain plug in hand. I found a plastic fitting that had the same thread size on one end and a small hose fitting on the other; a nipple which would fit into a short length of plastic tubing. The nipple was a smaller diameter than I wound have liked and that causes the oil to flow more slowly, but it works. I use a length of tubing that will reach into a catch container setting on the ground from the drain plug hole. I raise the engine fully, at which point the drain plug can be removed without any oil reaching the drain, remove the drain plug, screw in the fitting with tubing attached, then lower the engine to allow the oil to drain from the engine. Unscrew the dip stick so the crankcase can vent. After all the oil has drained, I raise the engine, unscrew the fitting/tube, and reinstall the drain plug. Not a drop of oil lost.
 
not sure if this works on anything but Yamaha's, but a 3/4" corrugated bilge pump hose fits perfectly into the rubber boot on the oil drain port. No fuss-no muss.

jd
 
OK, as you all know, I cannot remove a lug nut. But if somebody in Whatcom County (or somebody willing to come up to Whatcom County, we could put you up for the night!) would like to show me how to change the oil in my Honda 150 in my driveway, there is some fine Snoqualmie ale in it for you, and maybe we would fire up the Brinkman for some Q! Really!
 
I use the 6.9 qt suction oil extractor from West Marine. It's simple and easy to extract from the dipstick tube. If you do it with a warm engine it will flow pretty quick. I have put about 200 hrs per summer on the boat, so half way through I will change the oil in the harbor. You'll get a lot of different opinions on whether to do the oil filter at this time. I don't know about the F80 but with Honda if you were to drain the oil and then wait a few hours for the filter to drain out you can change it too with a shop rag and not much mess.
 
Pat, I would be more than happy to show you the ropes re: oil and filter change. Just be warned I may drool a little admiring your boat. Seriously, a CD25 is on my radar and it would be nice to see it up close. Just send me a pm and we'll work out the details. Larry
 
halibut taco":2k7pk0b4 said:
I use the 6.9 qt suction oil extractor from West Marine. It's simple and easy to extract from the dipstick tube.
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I have a question for you: Some feel that this method might not get all the oil out, but what has your experience been? Does the amount that comes out equal the capacity? Or, if not, how much discrepancy is there?

Thanks.
 
I've done quite a few oil changes in the water and it's not that difficult.

Honda recommends oil changes every 100 hours, and filter changes every 200 hours. They also recommend lower unit oil changes every 200 hours, which require hauling the boat out of the water. When I'm traveling, I try to have the boat hauled and have the engine oil/filter and gear oil changed at roughly 200 hour intervals. I change the water myself in the water at about 100 hour intervals.

I use a small Jabsco manual pump to pull oil out of the dipstick tube. It's usually messy, but I've yet to spill anything in the water. Changing the filter is really messy and I wouldn't attempt it in the water.

No matter how much I try, some oil, perhaps half a quart, remains in the engine.
 
Sunbeam":3utu3p0h said:
halibut taco":3utu3p0h said:
I use the 6.9 qt suction oil extractor from West Marine. It's simple and easy to extract from the dipstick tube.
Click to expand...

I have a question for you: Some feel that this method might not get all the oil out, but what has your experience been? Does the amount that comes out equal the capacity? Or, if not, how much discrepancy is there?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I'd say it's pretty close. I do remember hitting at least the 4 qt line on it. If it gets 4 qts of the 4.2 in the honda 90 then that's 95%. If you are changing every 100hrs then the oil is not going to be very dirty. That left over percentage seems pretty insignificant to me when mixed with fresh oil. Now this is just for the mid-season change. At the end of the year I drain it with the drain plug.
 
I know some owners who pump out what they can and then remove the plug to drain the remaining oil. You can also punch a small hole in the filter to drain the majority of the oil before removing the filter. One can also duct tape a plastic bag below the drain to "channel" the oil. These steps will greatly reduce the mess.
 
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