Opinion needed - does this look right.

N

NancyandBud

New member
It appears that the whole thing is bent up from the bow forward.

Is this the factory one? Should it be tilted up like that?

Thanks in advance.

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I noticed it this morning when I set the windlass on the deck to think about how far back it needed to be.
 
From here it looks suspicious. You would have to be able to look at it from the top to see if there is any bowing in the side profiles at the position of that bend. I would bet that there is some deforming, in or out.

After working with C-Gypsy in replacing an anchor roller, and looking at mine, I am thinking I want more metal and bolting back on the deck than what I have. I noticed that particularly on my 15 mile run down Knight Inlet this summer, in plenty big waves. Lots of hobby horsing and wondering if all the weight from that anchor was having an affect on the roller mounting.

How this one got bent up is a good question. One would think it would go the other way.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMGP6713.thumb.jpg
 
Good call Harvey.

Close inspection shows the sides bowed in at the forward bolt and one of the ears (stbd side) bent in.

So the question is do I try to bend it back flat? My first thought was a come along to the trailer. But then I don't want to stress it so much I damage any of the deck (perhaps that is a baseless fear?). Or should I be looking at a different one altogether?

Regards
 
Nancy and Bud":1wppuw1o said:
Good call Harvey.

Close inspection shows the sides bowed in at the forward bolt and one of the ears (stbd side) bent in.

So the question is do I try to bend it back flat? My first thought was a come along to the trailer. But then I don't want to stress it so much I damage any of the deck (perhaps that is a baseless fear?). Or should I be looking at a different one altogether?

Regards
Click to expand...

Take it OFF the boat, put it in a big vice (taped with masking tape good so you don't mar it up), and straighten it out with a hammer and perhaps a big crescent wrench where you can use the wrench to bend it back gently. (Unless you have an hydraulic press.)

Use the masking tape to avoid marring it up with another iron based metal tool like the hammer. Brass would be good. Wood strips can be used against the metal so you don't have to hit the stainless with the hammer directly.

Working on stainless with iron based tools or steel wool creates little disruptions in the stainless composition that result in small corrosion prone dissimilar metal areas (cells) that are prone to quick corrosion.

If you get some anyway, sand with fine emory paper and/or stainless steel wool to smooth the surface. There's even a fine metal polish that helps to "passivate" the stainless surface to minimize any possible corrosion potential, although any good metal polish will usually help some. Best, though, to use a passivation polish that will remove free iron atoms on the surface and leave a coating of chromium oxide that will protect the stainless alloy underneath. The polish is available at most marine hardware stores.

Thanks to my late good friend Harry Blei, who was a metallurgist and welding engineer at Westinghouse Marine, for imparting this understanding to me though our sailing friendship!

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I do have a press. :lol:

And a couple of sizes of brass hammers.

thanks for the excellent write up on how to do this. I would have never thought of polish.
 
Personally, I would probably replace it with something that has more "BEEF" in the mount(ing) area. It could be moved back onto the deck for more support underneath, but then you loose clearance for the anchor/bow/stem and that is not the direction you want to go.

As to the straightening, I agree with Joe. Take it off the boat. There is way to much chance of damaging the deck with the force it will take to get back the original shape.

It would be really interesting to know how that shape came to be. A guess might be that it was used as a lifting point, maybe for a sling launch. An upward pressure of that magnitude would not happen in an anchoring scenario.

As to the mention Joe made of a polish for "passivating":

Working on stainless with iron based tools or steel wool creates little disruptions in the stainless composition that result in small corrosion prone dissimilar metal areas (cells) that are prone to quick corrosion.

If you get some anyway, sand with fine emory paper and/or stainless steel wool to smooth the surface. There's even a fine metal polish that helps to "passivate" the stainless surface to minimize any possible corrosion potential, although any good metal polish will usually help some. Best, though, to use a passivation polish that will remove free iron atoms on the surface and leave a coating of chromium oxide that will protect the stainless alloy underneath. The polish is available at most marine hardware stores.
Click to expand...

I tried several, with not very good results until I found "Spotless Stainless" which was recommended by Sunbeam, and it worked the magic, just like it said it would.

Good luck with the project, and stay safe.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

IMGP1612.thumb.jpg
 
That looks like a bent version of the original anchor roller for our era boat. I replaced mine (unbent but a bit small for the ground tackle setup I wanted), with one that was put on later 22's (2008 or so). To be more accurate, it was a "stretch" model of the one that was on later 22's. The stretch part means it covers the foredeck pretty much right back to the non-skid. I chose that to lessen the gap between the anchor-roller channel and the windlass. There is more detail here:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... c&start=15

At first you will see some missing photos, but I went back and re-posted them further down.

I've been using the roller with a 15# Manson Supreme and no complaints.
 
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