Options for a New C-Dory 22

[GoNavy83]

I am trying to decide what options I want to get, if I do purchase a new '22. I have the two page pdf file from the C-Dory website showing what is standard and what is optional. Some of the options I understand, others I don't. I believe these are all factory options, maybe I am wrong on that and C-Dory lets each dealer pick their own interior hand rails, rod holders, swim step & ladder, etc. Explanations would be appreciated.

Options:

"2nd Battery Mount w/ Switch" If this is chosen, what space is sacrificed?

"Door & Shelf, No Ice Box" Is this in the aft cockpit, or are they talking about the refrigerator in the cabin?

"Fishbox Cooler w/Pad" Where would this be located? Any photos?

"Interior Hand Rails" Are these the two silver hand rails I've seen running fore & aft on the interior cabin overhead?

"Radar Arch" This doesn't specify high or low. I've seen photos of both, with rafts fitting under the high version. Do I make the decision with the factory or the dealer?

"Rod Holder" I've seen so many photos with rod holders all over the place, I'm wondering which ones is the factory talking about here.


I've asked a dealer what each option would cost and he told me to send him a list of what I want and he will price it out. I want to know what I am talking about when I chose an item I will have to live with. The dealer is about 500 miles away and I hate to make pricey decisions over the phone. Yes, I will visit the dealer before I purchase, but I want to get as much information as I can before I go.


Thanks,
Sam

 

[Pat Anderson]

Sam, you won't be sorry if you get a new CD22, but most everything you are talking about are items that are done by the dealer when he rigs your boat. Also, although some options used to be factory options, C-Dory is on its fourth or fifth ownership, it is pretty hard to know what the current ownership will do for you, which I suspect is not very much. They want you to have most of your dealings with the dealer who sold you the boat. That is not the way it used to be, back when C-Dory gave a crap about their owners, but it is apparently the new reality. I think of all the stuff you listed, you could get a second battery (which you absolutely need by the way, one as a starting battery and the other as a house battery), a swim step and the door and shelf under the helm seat rather than the useless cooler they used to put in. You either want a real Norcold fridge or usable storage space. Good luck! Radar arch, rod holders, inside hand rails and so forth are all going to be dealer items or some other third party. You did not mention a camperback, and you should conisder that a real necessity if you intend to cruise as well as fish.

 

[thataway]

"2nd Battery Mount w/ Switch" If this is chosen, what space is sacrificed?

Pat Anderson gives you good answers--here is my take:

"Door & Shelf, No Ice Box" Is this in the aft cockpit, or are they talking about the refrigerator in the cabin?

Under the helm seat there is a place for the small 12 volt refrigerator, an ice box, or a cabinet with shelves. I agree that the ice box is useless. Some folks have custom drawers in this space. You have to make the decision about this when you order the boat.

"Fishbox Cooler w/Pad" Where would this be located? Any photos?

I believe that this is a cooler with SS mount in the splash well. This can be added later, or at the factory. I prefer to buy my own cooler--a mount is fairly easy to make.

"Interior Hand Rails" Are these the two silver hand rails I've seen running fore & aft on the interior cabin overhead?

Yes, these are the interior hand rails. They are handy for grabbing when the boat is rolling, also for drying dish towels, clothes etc. I would get these from the factory since they have the pattern and have many made. They bolt onto the inside of the bolts used by the exterior hand rails.

"Radar Arch" This doesn't specify high or low. I've seen photos of both, with rafts fitting under the high version. Do I make the decision with the factory or the dealer?

The high does allow the dinghy under the arch--it depends on where you have the radar, and how high you want the air clearance of the boat on a trailer. These can be ordered by the dealer to your specification--or by the factory. There might be a little price saving by using the factory units. Also you may want the factory to run wiring for a radar, antennas, lights etc--or at least leave small dacron braided line in the tubing so you can pull wires.

"Rod Holder" I've seen so many photos with rod holders all over the place, I'm wondering which ones is the factory talking about here.

I would order these from the dealer. As you noted there are many options, and it depends on your own choice where and what type. Many radar arch have the "rocket launcher" type of rod holders.

I agree with Pat--a Camper back with Bimini top is a very desirable option. I have owned both "factory" and locally built. If you have a good canvas worker, you will get a better product than the factory. But many times the factory will be adequate--especially if your local canvas worker does not make these regularly.

 

[hardee]

HI Sam,

Welcome and best wishes as you go through the process.
Most on the list seem to be dealer type issues. It is hard to know what PDF vintage or the originator, so answers may be less specific.

I would call the current manufacturer, ask for a current option sheet and ask their preference of whether those are factory or dealer options.

I would think that the stainless work, handrails, in or out, and the radar arch would come from the factory. (NOTE ON THE ARCH) -- Either will add height so your towing clearance will be affected - a consideration if you are planning on indoor storage. If you are thinking roof top dingy, then high arch will be most likely. It can have or not have rod holders. They used to always come from the factory but as mentioned, things have changed. There are options to a roof mounted arch, especially if height is a concern.

A camper back is an option, an expensive one. some feel you have to have it (I think most that do have one, think that way) and there are some that are fine without. I live in the PNW, have been cruising for 6+ years now and do not have one. I would recommend using the boat for a year and see if you find you need it first. It is not an uncommon aftermarket addition and I don't think the factory is any better at adding them than a good canvass shop.

On the other hand, the "extra" battery is not really extra. Depending on the engine(s) size and type of use, almost every C-Dory gets a Second battery. A good idea for safety and efficiency. The battery placement may be dependent on OB(s) placement. Single and kicker may differ from a twin OB set-up. (IE with a single and kicker, you may not want the kicker and the extra battery on the same side, or, with twins you may want the batteries to be separate, one on each side of the boat rather than together.)

Swim step seems to be a factory thing, but again it is going to be up to them and positioning will be determined by OB positioning and other transom gadgets, (Trim tabs, transducer(s), kicker jacks etc. that will need to be decided by the three of you.

These are decisions that will need to be made and it is going to take some communication between the three of you--> You, the dealer, and the manufacturer. I would start with the factory, and get straight with them what they will do, and then go to the dealer.

It's a journey, enjoy.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[thataway]

Harvey makes some good points about the camper back. We enjoy it especially when we are going to be in potentially cold or wet weather. Other areas we don't even bring it along (for example Lake Powell in the Summer, or Gulf Coast in the Summer. If we are spending a month on the Inland passage, then is is almost an essential as an "anti room" leave the wet clothes out in the "back porch". Also when there are lots of bugs, the fine "no see em screens" are much better than the standard "fly" screens. If you want an extended season in NJ, the Camper back would be a nice addition--it also helps to keep any water out of the cockpit--but not so good for fishing.

The question of where does the battery go--it depends on how your boat is set up. Our batteries go between the fuel tanks in the 2006 22. We had them in the Lazarette under the hatches in other boats. Some folks one of the lazarettes as a bait tank. We use one as a place to keep propane tanks for the grill, spare gas for the outboard and generator, plus oil.

 

[Pat Anderson]

We like the camperback bimini for shade at Lake Powell!

 

[thataway]

Absolutely--the Bimini is almost an essential--and it always goes with us--even if we do not have the sides and back of the camper..

 

[jimandlaurie]

Ditto on Pat's observations.

 

[Stan Major]

Personally on the Bimini Top? I installed mine locally the second I got home. As a fisherman the Bimini gets in the way. While it is great for shade I find I keep it rolled up more often than not. A second battery with a switch is a relatively inexpensive useful option to add. I'm now wishing I had trim tabs and a windlass. Both of which I will add soon.

 

[Will-C]

If you are cruising the camper top is a real plus. When cruising I fish I sit on a cooler facing aft with the camper tops curtains rolled up. When cruising and rain happens the camper top is a real plus adding another dry room. I like to stay out of the sun. When fishing not cruising we don't have the camper back installed. We keep ours on a dock box inside our garage and have three separate bags for the camper backs side curtains with clear windows that are wrapped in sheets rolled up around one of those foam swim noodles.
We have a simple auto pilot with a remote control. It's really one of my favorite accessories especially for slow, displacement speed cruising through no wake zones, manatee zones , canals etc. It has buttons for steering corrections (turns). We boat in New Jersey (Tuckerton, Cape May) and between the bugs and the heat and humidity sometimes air conditioning is a real plus. We use 25 feet of chain and 200' of anchor rode. Most folks here seem to like a 15 pound Mansion Supreme for an anchor. Hope you enjoy the journey getting your boat rigged the way you will enjoy it. Everyone's a little different. How you will use you boat will determine what you will need to be living the dream. Good Luck!
D.D.

 

[colbysmith]

I'd like a "camper top", but my wife likes the sun. That being said, it's definitely something that you can add later. I've had my C-dory now for several seasons here in the Midwest, and I still do not have the camper top. Here would be my recommendations, for what they are worth:

Must have ASAP:
- Dual batteries with switch
- Anchor Windlass (If you are going to do any anchoring...)


Things that are nice or can be added later:
-Camper top
-Arch (This will increase your clearance. Is it necessary? How will you use it?)
- Shore power
-Interior hand rails (nice to hang onto if moving around in rough water.)

If you are going to be swimming or entering the water, you'll definitely want a swim platform, or some form of ladder to get in and out of the boat from the water. I do not have the "ice box" or "refrigerator". I do have a big cooler. Regarding the cooler and optional mount. The mount goes across the back splash well. I find that I tend to not use the mount and just leave the cooler in the cockpit. The problem with the mount is it gets in the way if using the swim platform. However, it is nice to have the cooler up high and out of the way, if we don't need to get off the back end of the boat. The cooler also makes a nice seat when left in the cockpit. A refrigerator uses a lot of battery juice if you are not plugged in. (Or at least they use to...) Colby

 

[thataway]

A comment about refrigeration and battery use. We have a Dometic/Waeco chest refrigerator/freezer--we use as a freezer, and keep at zero. We have a group 31 AGM battery dedicated to this freezer on the 22. When making a 4 to 5 hour run, the engine alternator will charge this up (even though we have a "B" Honda 90, with only 16 amp alternator. We carry a EU1000I Honda and running this for 2 hours a day, will charger both the refrigerator battery (dedicated 30 amp charger), and the house battery, if we do not run the main engine or have shore power. We also had the standard factory Norcold built in Refrigerator on the 25, and had two group 31 AGM batteries for that unit--and could go several days without additional charging. So there is a little "price" to pay to have refrigeration--but well worth it if you are taking a long trip to remote areas where you will not get provisions. We prefer the chest for the versatility it provides.

 

[bridma]

Maybe you should hold off on a camper back for awhile. When we got our boat in 2011 it did not have a camper back. I looked at other boats at gatherings and pics in the brat albums, there are so many different designs it is hard to figure out the right one as we all have different needs. While pondering this conumdren I started using a patio umbrella. Price was good, I had one laying around the garage not in use. Obviously not as good as a full camper back but I like it. ( Pics in my album sub-titled Desolation). I still sit in the cockpit if it is a straight down rain shower and it does give us some shade on a sunny day. Big bonus is when I'm moving from anchorage to anchorage. I just haul the dink into the cockpit and off I go at warp speed. If I were to get into serious winter cruising, then I would say a full camper back is a must.

Martin.

 

[breausaw]

If I had to do it over I'd go with a 125hp outboard, that is if you go single. If you spend big and decide on twins consider 60s. If you go light on the hp you'll wish you hadn't.

 

[thataway]

If I had to do it over I'd go with a 125hp outboard, that is if you go single. If you spend big and decide on twins consider 60s. If you go light on the hp you'll wish you hadn't.

The boats are rated for 115 HP, Using larger motors have been discussed. The 125 available is basically a 115 on steroids. But the boats do fine with 90 hp, and above 30 mph they do not handle as well. I would advise against over 115 hp.

 

[breausaw]

If I had to do it over I'd go with a 125hp outboard, that is if you go single. If you spend big and decide on twins consider 60s. If you go light on the hp you'll wish you hadn't.

The boats are rated for 115 HP, Using larger motors have been discussed. The 125 available is basically a 115 on steroids. But the boats do fine with 90 hp, and above 30 mph they do not handle as well. I would advise against over 115 hp.

Oops, I new that...meant 115hp.

 

[breausaw]

If I had to do it over I'd go with a 125hp outboard, that is if you go single. If you spend big and decide on twins consider 60s. If you go light on the hp you'll wish you hadn't.

The boats are rated for 115 HP, Using larger motors have been discussed. The 125 available is basically a 115 on steroids. But the boats do fine with 90 hp, and above 30 mph they do not handle as well. I would advise against over 115 hp.

Oops, I knew that...meant 115hp.

In my opinion after owning a 22 for 5 years, they are under powered with a 90 horse; of course we always had lots of gear for our 2 to 4 day trips. If all your doing is sightseeing with a couple adults and don’t have much in the way of gear, 90hp will get the job done. 90hp got the job done for us also; just always felt that it was under powered.

On the other hand our 25 with the 150hp seems to have lots of extra power when needed; but that’s perhaps the Verado advantage, our best cruising fuel economy is between 27-29 mph.... Close to 3 mpg 8)

 

[thataway]

The "under powered" really means what top speed you want. IF you want to run a C Dory at 27 to 29 mph (23.4 to 25 knots) the 90 may or may not do it. On the other hand we cruised very safely on a C Dory 25 which was underpowered with a 130 (different block than the 135 and 150) where we were cruising at 17 knots--and it worked fine. Same for the 22--Many owners prefer to cruise at 15 to 17 knots.

To me "underpowered" means difficulty getting the boat on a plane. We have never found that to be an issue, even with our 22 fully loaded for a month--with freezer, extra fuel, water, kicker, dinghy, food, etc. The difference between a 90 and 115 is gong to be evident only at the top end of speeds.

 

[Sunbeam]

If you go light on the hp you'll wish you hadn't.

I would say this depends on the person and the typical use of the boat. A couple of summers ago I spent time on a 22 with a 75hp Honda. Same owner for over a decade and he had no complaints at all.

On the other hand, it sounds like you would not have liked it as well as a larger engine. So I think it varies.

 

[Jake]

To me "underpowered" means difficulty getting the boat on a plane. We have never found that to be an issue, even with our 22 fully loaded for a month--with freezer, extra fuel, water, kicker, dinghy, food, etc. The difference between a 90 and 115 is gong to be evident only at the top end of speeds.

Bob,
Thanks for the great advice based on many years of experience. But sometimes I think you C-Dory owners just don't spend enough time pulling "tubers" and skiers to determine the best boat/engine combination for all applications. :wink: :wink: But maybe Bob does down there in sunny, warm Florida.

Jake