So I am going to be docking on a boat lift in brackish water. What is the suggestion for flushing the motors? Being I'll have fresh water to the boat what solutions have people found? Ears, bags, etc?? I have in the past just pulled it to fresh and ran the motors, this isn't an option now.
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Outboard Motor Flush
- Thread starter bshillam
- Start date
Yes, it was kind of a pain last year when we moored in salt water. I used the flushing port on our Suzuki DF90 to flush the water through with the engine not running. However, it doesn't flush out the water pump.
I also purchased a really big flush bag but that didn't really work either. It was really unwieldy and difficult to put around the lower unit and bracket. As for the kicker and dinghy motor, I was able to use the smaller flush bags on those with some success.
All in all, I much prefer flushing on the hard.
I also purchased a really big flush bag but that didn't really work either. It was really unwieldy and difficult to put around the lower unit and bracket. As for the kicker and dinghy motor, I was able to use the smaller flush bags on those with some success.
All in all, I much prefer flushing on the hard.
With our 25 in the water, I started with a set of twin ears for the twin Hondas and thanks to long arms, I could install and remove them from the dock with us backing in. I later moved to a set of motor flush connectors on a Y hose connection and this allowed an easy reach while trimmed up from the cockpit and I could do it with the motors off. After getting into that habit, it was just part of the put away and I would allow them to flush for a few minutes while we used a second connection to the same hose line to rinse down the rest of the boat.
I flush a different boat now in the driveway but it really is not any easier for me. Proximity to the fresh water hose is most relevant with a quick-connect on the hose speeding things up nicely as well. As long as you find a safe way to reach the connection on the water, you are golden.
Greg
I flush a different boat now in the driveway but it really is not any easier for me. Proximity to the fresh water hose is most relevant with a quick-connect on the hose speeding things up nicely as well. As long as you find a safe way to reach the connection on the water, you are golden.
Greg
Jazzmanic":1dl9pbzh said:I used the flushing port on our Suzuki DF90 to flush the water through with the engine not running. However, it doesn't flush out the water pump.
Is this true of outboards in general (that have a dedicated flushing connection)? Or is it just Suzuki? I would have assumed that flushing the motor(s) using the manufacturer's dedicated flushing port was really flushing them - not just "part way." (I've only run outboards in fresh water, so flushing them is new to me.)
I guess it's better to find out now, even if it's not what I want to hear :cry
My CD25 is run in salt water and I flush the HONDA 90s using their flushing port which also means that I can not run the engine(s) during this process.
I bought a hose "Y" with shutoffs at Home Depot so I can now do both engines at the same time. I do flush every time with 'SALTAWAY' to neutralize any salt in the area accessible. I have also used it on the hull and bright work with success.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
This is a link to my pixs of this setup. Hope this helps. This tooling setup would be the same for other engines, only the connection would change by manufacturer.
Art
I bought a hose "Y" with shutoffs at Home Depot so I can now do both engines at the same time. I do flush every time with 'SALTAWAY' to neutralize any salt in the area accessible. I have also used it on the hull and bright work with success.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
This is a link to my pixs of this setup. Hope this helps. This tooling setup would be the same for other engines, only the connection would change by manufacturer.
Art
A
Anonymous
Guest
What part of the engine/drive is not flushed on a Honda 90 when one uses the hose flush connection?
My Daddy said long ago that the best maintenance regimen for an outboard is to use it every day! keep that water pump working! We boat in salt water only. My issue is this; I store in a rack. The guys launch me on demand, and at the end of the day i tie up at a service dock, and indicate on a black board "leave in. or "haul". I use the flushing port on the Honda 90, but to have my boat hauled for the night I am required to leave the motor down.....hmmmm....counter productive?
In the past while staying at a marina, my motor got flushed seldom if ever during the season. its a 1995 Mariner, and its still running. I always did my best to take my father's advice.
In the past while staying at a marina, my motor got flushed seldom if ever during the season. its a 1995 Mariner, and its still running. I always did my best to take my father's advice.
We have a Honda BF115 engine with a flush port that is easily accessed from the cockpit, and we religiously flush the motor after each use ( we use the engine in salt water most of the time. ) My wife's cousin has a Honda BF150, and he also washes down the motor with fresh water and flushes it out after every use. He has been doing so for over 5 years, and his engine still looks like new. Good maintenance is good protection of one's investment.
Rich
Rich
Les Lampman
New member
None of the flush systems (where you hook up the garden hose to a port or hose on the engine) will flush out the water pump. Basically they can't as you'd be trying to force water back through the vanes in the water pump housing. This is not dependent on brand of engine or where the water connects to the engine flush hose or port.
And it really doens't make any difference. The water pump sits on top of the lower unit gear case. It consists (usually) of a molded housing, a stainless liner, and a rubber (synthetic) impeller. Not being able to flush that out is not really a big deal. That said, if I was going to store the engine (like over the winter) I'd run the engine on a hose connected to the muffs clamped to the lower unit in order to run fresh water through the water pump and the engine (and probably with a salt dissolver/cleaner).
Les
And it really doens't make any difference. The water pump sits on top of the lower unit gear case. It consists (usually) of a molded housing, a stainless liner, and a rubber (synthetic) impeller. Not being able to flush that out is not really a big deal. That said, if I was going to store the engine (like over the winter) I'd run the engine on a hose connected to the muffs clamped to the lower unit in order to run fresh water through the water pump and the engine (and probably with a salt dissolver/cleaner).
Les
This is my understanding that while using the flush port, you do not run the engine as the water does not flow through the water pump. Any knowlegeable Suzuki owners please correct me if I'm wrong.Sunbeam":p4saogwb said:Jazzmanic":p4saogwb said:I used the flushing port on our Suzuki DF90 to flush the water through with the engine not running. However, it doesn't flush out the water pump.
Is this true of outboards in general (that have a dedicated flushing connection)? Or is it just Suzuki? I would have assumed that flushing the motor(s) using the manufacturer's dedicated flushing port was really flushing them - not just "part way." (I've only run outboards in fresh water, so flushing them is new to me.)
I guess it's better to find out now, even if it's not what I want to hear :cry
Hey Harvey, are you trying to start a Suzuki vs. Yamaha vs. Honda vs. Etec debate now? Not enough twins vs. singles debates recently? :lol:
IMHO, our Suzi DF90 has treated us just fine for seven years thank you.
Peter
Thanks Les for the clarification, I was typing while you submitted your well-informed bit of information. :winkLes Lampman":8fs3kgdq said:None of the flush systems (where you hook up the garden hose to a port or hose on the engine) will flush out the water pump. Basically they can't as you'd be trying to force water back through the vanes in the water pump housing. This is not dependent on brand of engine or where the water connects to the engine flush hose or port.
And it really doens't make any difference. The water pump sits on top of the lower unit gear case. It consists (usually) of a molded housing, a stainless liner, and a rubber (synthetic) impeller. Not being able to flush that out is not really a big deal. That said, if I was going to store the engine (like over the winter) I'd run the engine on a hose connected to the muffs clamped to the lower unit in order to run fresh water through the water pump and the engine (and probably with a salt dissolver/cleaner).
Les Lampman
New member
bshillam":1098htvh said:So I am going to be docking on a boat lift in brackish water. What is the suggestion for flushing the motors? Being I'll have fresh water to the boat what solutions have people found? Ears, bags, etc?? I have in the past just pulled it to fresh and ran the motors, this isn't an option now.
Bill, with your engines you don't have a lot of choice if the boat is in the water unless you want to try and reach way down there and slip muffs on or try to unscrew the flush port at the top of the lower unit gear case (it's a long underwater reach with the muffs and the flush port screw doesn't float).
If you're in brackish water I'd suggest that flushing the engine during "the season" isn't necessary, we actually have a lot of boats in our area (in saltwater) that don't get flushed all year (except when they're pulled) because they're at a dock and they do fine.
I agree with the advice that the best thing you can do for them is to run them!
Les
Les Lampman
New member
Jazzmanic":yi0obc2l said:This is my understanding that while using the flush port, you do not run the engine as the water does not flow through the water pump. Any knowlegeable Suzuki owners please correct me if I'm wrong.
Peter
Hi Peter,
I would encourage folks to read their owners manual or check with their dealer. Some engines can be run with the water source connected to the built-in flush port. The water pressure from the source is (in some engines) trying to get out through the water pump and when you start the engine it feeds fresh water to the pump (but not the way a pair of muffs would). However, there is usually an admonishment to only run the engine at idle. At higher speeds the pump will suck too much air and may overheat or damage the impeller because it won't have enough water for lubrication).
Les
Les,
Thanks for the explanation. As I was thinking about it (before reading your entry), I was starting to wonder if maybe the impeller vanes were involved in the "incomplete" flush scenario. Sounds like the most important bits do still get flushed. I appreciate the info and it's good to know that particular motor brands aren't inferior in the flushing category.
Thanks for the explanation. As I was thinking about it (before reading your entry), I was starting to wonder if maybe the impeller vanes were involved in the "incomplete" flush scenario. Sounds like the most important bits do still get flushed. I appreciate the info and it's good to know that particular motor brands aren't inferior in the flushing category.
My boat lives in a salt water slip 9 months a year. I made a short hose connection with a valve and quick connect fitting that stays attached to the flush connection on my Suzuki df 140. After a day on the water, we just hook up the hose, open the valve and let it flush while we're unloading the boat.
No need to hang over the back and attach ear muffs. I've had 1200 troublefree hours on that engine.
No need to hang over the back and attach ear muffs. I've had 1200 troublefree hours on that engine.
Captains Cat
New member
You have a Df140 on a 16' Angler? ? :disgust
Charlie
Charlie
You mentioned flushing bags in the original post. I tried that with a moored boat and it turned out to be a big hassle in almost every way. It put me in a difficult and unsafe physical posture during the flush process. I'd personally be more inclined to run the motor as often as possible, and use salt-away whenever you pull the boat out. This goes against most owner's manuals, but the engines that seem to do the best are the ones that get run every day, more so than the ones that get flushed all the time. Best, Mike.