Pain in the electricals

K

ken 120

New member
Greetings:

Today I reinstalled my batteries and found that when I set the selector on "1" or "all" no problem-on "two" no juice-the batteries are good and fully charged-it occurs to me that since I had the boat I probably always set the switch on "all" so this could have been a problem since I bought the 01 22 used in 04.

I have two questions - are there any other in line fuses besides the three in the starboard side rear compartment and the two fuses in the 90 honda?

Also I noticed that the batteries are connected with a negative cable but not a positive- is this correct?

Any advise or theories welcome.

Thanks

Ken
 
1 wire from battery 1 to position 1 on the switch. 1 wire from battery 2 to position 2 on the switch. 1 wire from the switch common to the motor. The black wires goto the negative post and there is a jumper between the 2 negatives.
 
It is possible that you have a bad switch, or that the wiring is wrong to the switch. The fuses aft would be a stove, bilge pump, the main wire to the panel under the wheel. (depends on the boat). On newer boats there is a circuit breaker on the 12 volt positive wire to the console.
 
I just had a bad Perko switch on my house boat. Might check that.

Put the new one on and bingo. Dissasembled the old one and could find any reason for the malfunction. Chunked it anyway. It was not a genuine Perko.
 
My boat has InstaTrim trim tabs. They do not work. I do not have a wiring diagram. I have checked all of the fuses on the electrical panel......all OK.
Nothing is marked so I do not know which wire is which. Any ideas/help etc. would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
I had the exact same problem two weeks ago. As I posted in another thread it was a loose connection to the battery. I suspect that is not the case with you but it's good to check off the easy stuff. Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
Jack, start tracing the wiring. Most likely it is a corroded connector. The connectors in the bilge need to be adhesive heat shrink type--and they are not.

I keep some 20 foot #14 wire with aligator clips on each end. For this type of DX I pull the connectors by the pump unit. Then I clip the power lead to the tab pump to the aligator clip and the clip to a volt meter. The other lead (black) to a good ground (with clips--then you can push the up and down tab buttons to see if there is power back there. I'll bet there is power, but corroded connector--check ground also. Replace all of these connectors--and then label all of the wires as you go. You can also use this same wire with the clips to bypass the power to the pump--or even use two leads--one red and one black.

Another way is to use a small garden tractor (or two 6 volt lattern batteries in series to give 12 volts)--and power the pump directly off this battery--that will check out the pump. When I got the 25 the pump was frozen. I had to replace it. Be sure and protect the new crimp fittings.
 
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