Portholes

Thanks Greg,

That is what I was looking for. Also, it looks like the "glass" is not glass. Is that acrylic a good alternative. It seems think enough (8mm) but what about scratch resistance.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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I put in the PM21 oblong portholes last summer. I liked that they don't have through bolts to hold them in place. They are held by screws in a blind fitting on the frame. You just need to get screws the correct length for the thickness of the bulkhead the ports are mounted in (#8 sheet metal screens I think).

I used a hole saw to make two holes (one for each end of the port) and used a hacksaw to cut between the holes. A little filing and the ports went right in.

The PM ports are very flat to the surface on the outside. The frame probably protrudes about 1/8" from the surface of the installed location.

The "glass" is 8mm (or so) smoked lexan. So far I haven't any issues with scratches or leaking ports.
 
hardee":2k87bkeh said:
Thanks Greg,

That is what I was looking for. Also, it looks like the "glass" is not glass. Is that acrylic a good alternative. It seems think enough (8mm) but what about scratch resistance.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_070.thumb.jpg
Click to expand...

Acrylic is a common material for boat window use and more resistant than the rest of a fiberglass boat. Good enough for fighter cockpits so I think it will endure the fury of our use.

Greg
 
Thanks Greg, I was thinking "Lexan" was the appropriate plastic for port hole type service. guess I like the bullet proof kind. I should have looked it up first, but thanks again.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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I have the correct size of hole saw available for any C-Brats.
I am in Nanaimo on Vancouver Island.
I will also be installing a set on Nomad in April.
We are really pleased with ours. Oh and they should come with the screens so no need to order extras.
 
hardee":12dsglfz said:
Thanks Greg, I was thinking "Lexan" was the appropriate plastic for port hole type service. guess I like the bullet proof kind.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't necessarily choose Lexan (polycarbonate). Yes, it's tough, but it's also prone to scratches, crazing, and yellowing. Cast acrylic is used by some very good hatch makers, and is what I would choose.

That's not to say you shouldn't choose Lexan, but just that acrylic is not necessarily a "lesser" choice.
 
Blake,
Checkout Valkryie's album for his porthole installation.
 
Got them installed today and they are looking good to us. Put them 6 inches forward of the navigation lights and did have to order another set of Ari decals and move them a bit forward. The install went well with a drill and jigsaw followed by some 3M 4000 sealant in white for the hidden portions and some Lifeseal in black for between the rings.

Tarp the inside before you start cutting to keep the mess contained.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

Greg
 
Greg, They look really nice. Thanks for sharing the install.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Yes- they look great. You will enjoy the cross ventilation.
 
Meant to say also that the area where I mounted them was NOT cored and was 5/16 inch thick solid fiberglass so no core to seal with this job. Took about 2.5 hours total.

Greg
 
I just removed a brass porthole from my bathroom (in my house). It was really neat to have, but being brass it pretty much just condensed all winter long and dripped water into my wall, so it had to go.

I was thinking about installing it in my C-Dory but I got talked out of it. Now I'm talked right back into it!!!
 
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